Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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February 28, 2017 | #121 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ireland
Posts: 211
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Learning about the sun dwarf gene explains why my greenhouse Tiny Tims were 1.5ft and the house ones were 4ft
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February 28, 2017 | #122 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Nanaimo , BC
Posts: 961
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My Micro Tom ....Picks ...are still
Venus, Rejina Red, Rejina Yellow , Hahms gelbe, .....Like the Red dwarf as well also a bit larger "Micro " Yellow Pygmy. Ditmarsher is interesting to look at as well. In the seedling emergence "Horse race " ....I always find Venus and Rejina Yellow to "pop " up first . Geese we still have a light new dusting of snow on the ground "Micro power" is most welcome in the "Pre" growing season .
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So Many Tomatoes ...So Little Time ! |
February 28, 2017 | #123 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ireland
Posts: 211
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Found out a few more specifics about the sun dwarf gene, for anyone interested (first page, second page)
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February 28, 2017 | #124 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Quote:
Those that have disappointed me this winter are those I'm growing inside from selections I made outside last summer. I think it is likely that the fact that they will stretch out more inside is probably something that most will manifest. It won't necessarily mean that they the must have the sun dwarf gene if they stay smaller outside. However, those that do have the gene will probably show it much more dramatically. It will be fun to learn. Last edited by dfollett; February 28, 2017 at 10:07 PM. |
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February 28, 2017 | #125 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Quote:
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March 10, 2017 | #126 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Fine Leaf - a good thing?
An F2 from a cross with Silvery Fir Tree. Eleven inches in height - very fine leaved - quite fine stemmed (but needed less support than I thought it would given the size of the fruits) - very strong flavor - tart, but not as tart as SFT.
Encouraging. |
March 10, 2017 | #127 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Too small?
An F3 from a cross with Lollipop. These are now starting to blush at this height. So far, it hasn't sent up a side-shoot to dash my hopes of finding one that stays this small. I wish they were yellow, but it looks like they will be red.
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March 25, 2017 | #128 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,932
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Been a while since I updated. So turns out that if the four I grew, even the little brother are all dwarf but not micro. 3 of 4 are indeterminate at about 3 feet tall and one is determinate I believe at around 20". Setting clusters of " cherries and the first to ripen are these, seed sown Dec2 grown indoors without supplemental light once they got too tall. I am sure that they would be both shorter and earlier grown outdoors in good conditions. Plants are healthy lightly rugosa potato leaf.
The best part, they have a very good flavour! I also think this would be even better outdoors but considering their upbringing I think quite excellent. I can send seed if you wish. Not micro but certainly a really good dwarf black cherry Last edited by KarenO; March 25, 2017 at 11:58 PM. |
March 26, 2017 | #129 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Anchorage, AK zone 3/4
Posts: 1,410
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Those look great Karen. It looks like I may have a micro multiflora from your 53X-F3-2 line Dan. The buds just appeared and looks like 6 in a cluster on top of the plant which is very short. I will take a photo in about week when the buds show up better. I planted Aztek from Cole Robbie as a comparison since it is a know micro-multiflora. They are loaded with the cutest little yellow blooms now.
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March 27, 2017 | #130 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Nanaimo , BC
Posts: 961
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geese ....Fantastic interesting looking "werk " ! ....all of you .
Keep up the explorations ...you "micro explorers"
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So Many Tomatoes ...So Little Time ! |
March 27, 2017 | #131 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Quote:
For what it is worth, all of the extra slow, tiny stragglers I potted up either didn't thrive or eventually caught up to the norm (Most didn't thrive). I'll not be waiting for any of them in the future. I have found several interesting plants this winter that remained tiny throughout their life cycle. By next fall, I'll have another generation on them and should be sure of their size potential. If you want something to watch grow next winter, let me know and you can pick from whatever options I have. So far, I have no blacks, but do have a red and a yellow and (maybe) an orange and a black/green striped. They will be at F5 (or F6) by fall. I am going to grow them out indoors this summer rather than outside in the sun. I've come to the conclusion that if I am looking for something that thrives indoors under lights, I don't want to mislead myself again by selecting based on how they do outside under full sun. |
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March 27, 2017 | #132 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Does each leaf need light to be healthy?
Karen - and anyone else who might know.....,
I've been puzzling over something recently, and since you're an expert, I'll ask you... What I have noticed is purely anecdotal, as I have done no scientific or controlled experiments. However, it seems to me that I have significantly more leaf problems on plants with larger, more rugose, heavier leaves (especially PL) than I do with their finer leaved cousins. My original assumption was that the larger leaved plants should do better in a low-light condition because the larger leaves would absorb more light - or at least have the ability to take in more light than those with the finer/smaller leaves. I figured that larger leaves would give that plant an advantage. However, I seem to have significantly more problems with bottom leaves shriveling up and dying on those that have 'larger/denser' leaves than the finer leaved ones. In reasoning through how to ask the question, I came up with something that may hold the answer the question for me. Does each leaf need direct light to stay healthy? If that is the case, then perhaps the denser leaf covering above shades the lower leaves so thoroughly that they die from lack of light. Outdoors there would be much more reflected ambient light reaching all the leaves - and the daily passage of the sun across the sky would allow direct sunlight to reach nearly every leaf on the plant at one time or another. Indoors, the light never changes position and the dense leaves effectively permanently shade their lower brothers (or sisters). Perhaps, on the plants with the finer leaves, the stationary light above is still able to penetrate and reach the lower leaves - at least enough so that they remain healthier. I have some extra-fine leaf micros that seem to be doing much better overall as a group than those with the more dense leaf structure. Their leaf structure is very much like Silvery Fir Tree (although there is no SFT in their parentage). I certainly don't have a large enough sample size to be able to say anything definitively. However, after having reasoned my way through the question and then this theory, it kinda makes sense to me. (Sometimes I have to talk my way through something before I know what I think about it....) Does any of that make sense? Or, should those with more leaf surface area be expected to do better under lights like I originally reasoned? |
March 28, 2017 | #133 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,932
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I wouldn't call myself an expert, except maybe about my own projects certainly not at indoor micro growing but I do have some theories, again just theories.
I find that rugosa foliage has a lot of nooks and crannies and in my observations can be more prone to fungal disease than smooth RL or PL foliage. Leaves don't usually just dry up on their own, I think the shading of lower leaves, especially if in the slightest contact with damp potting media would contribute to some mold development quite easily. I find that the foliage can be very dense and would likely benefit from some light pruning especially around the bottom to improve airflow. Like I said, just theories but anything touching the potting soil should come off in the same way you wouldn't let leaves touch soil even on a full sized plant KarenO |
March 28, 2017 | #134 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Curious about that so i'm following.
6 of mine are still under 12 inches, from soil level in 1/2 gal pots. Some fruit. The others did gain some height and still going, alive, in the 16-18 inch range...others had to go away once i started my Spring starts. All were side by side. Some tall ones are still in 4inch pots. Kept what i had room for. Only one is staked. So much fruit i needed to hang on to it. Nothing ripe yet. It has been such a dreary Winter. Zip in the sun dept. Usually i've got some things in the greenhouse by now. Maybe Wednesday. The prime micros i'll keep inside and try to get some more pics. |
March 28, 2017 | #135 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,924
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Quote:
I have two plants, just potted up a week ago. (sowed seeds 55 days ago ). Now they have fruits. In addition to being so early it is also the only ornamental tomato plant that I know of. And if you don't mind slightly tangy taste, the fruits are pretty good too.
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