Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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September 21, 2017 | #166 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Nanaimo , BC
Posts: 961
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wow such fine work !
me likes the baby "silvery fir" munchkins especially ... they are most intriguing ! A fine winter grow season looks in place.
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So Many Tomatoes ...So Little Time ! |
September 22, 2017 | #167 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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September 22, 2017 | #168 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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I agree it will go fast having started some seed already...then
again around the first of the year. Key is quantity to select for size. Then hope for good flavor again. No, I would never name them. That's your job. Working name is d'Follett'sDarkChocolate and 'MySweetBaby', lol. (terrible name) I just say that when I check on it, lift it up, say hello, It is d'Follett'sPinkCompanion. The third one is just called 'hope' right now. The seeds are yours. To do what you wish. Send from here if anyone wants to grow out, or wait for the next generation. |
September 28, 2017 | #169 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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The third is producing as I had 'hoped'. If it has great flavor I
will start seeds right away. Nice amount of fruit on such a small plant. |
October 12, 2017 | #170 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Finally seeing some colors
I find it interesting that nearly every F2 I have grown has been red. A very few have been yellow or red with light yellow striping, but I haven't seen the wider differences I hoped for in the F2s. However, I am seeing more color differentiation in the F3s & F4s than I did in the F2s. I had expected to see more color differentiation in the F2s...
Each of these was from an F3 or F4 plant that stayed under 12" tall in a 6" pot.
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October 12, 2017 | #171 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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From our Dwarf project work, stripes were pretty easy to fix, but not the coloring pattern within the stripes - the Beauty line has been fascinating with lots of continued advanced generation color flipping.
Micros may be perfect for me to focus on next year, Dan, as I ***gasp*****am planning to skip having a garden - for the first time in over 30 years! We are planning a cross country driving trip to see our girls, probably in the spring - and I've got some speaking event travel as well. So - squeezing in some micros may be just the ticket!
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Craig |
October 12, 2017 | #172 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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Quote:
You have to know that you are welcome to anything I have in process. I appreciate your contributions and sharing your knowledge. I'd love to get your input. These little things are very easy to tend, even indoors. All you need is a timer for the lights and, with right setup using a capillary mat, they only need to be watered every 5-6 days (and with a little tweaking, less often than that). |
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October 13, 2017 | #173 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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Dan, the colors we observed in the F2 seemed to have a strong dependency on the width of the cross - and we actually seemed to use a red parent less frequently (early on, anyway), than more "recessive" colors. There was also, of course, a dependency on how big a population of F2 we ended up with when pooling results from all of our volunteers on a given cross.
I would have to go back to the individual threads or spreadsheets - but the families that involved a red parent were Bashful (one parent was found to be crossed) Brawny Doc (one parent was found to be crossed) Eventful (using a red F2) Grumpy Plentiful (though it was a red F2, so lots of diversity) Ruggy Ruby Sleepy Sneaky (though the parent was early generation and hence not stable) Softy Teary Witty So only 8 of our many, many crosses used a "pure" red parent. Some of those didn't get a lot of work/interest. Maybe the best indicators are Sleepy and Witty - and we did see lots of color variation even in the F2. You can look at the various F2 threads for those above if you wish to delve deeper.
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Craig |
October 13, 2017 | #174 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Anchorage, AK zone 3/4
Posts: 1,410
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A lovely selection of colors Dan. I look forward to growing some out this winter along with the ones I grew this summer.
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October 13, 2017 | #175 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Nanaimo , BC
Posts: 961
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Garden or no Garden this year ....after over 30 years ... You Sir are a True gentleman and a scholar .. and still an inspiration to us all.
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So Many Tomatoes ...So Little Time ! |
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December 28, 2017 | #176 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 693
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What is most important - Plant appearance or fruit taste?
Obviously, both are important. However, there are always trade-offs. Do you want something that would look good in your flower bed in the summer or will you grow them primarily for eating? For growing inside during winter or early spring in a window or on a shelf, if you had to choose between these two options, which would you pick:
Don't know how good the fruit is going to be yet, but - Here's hoping. |
December 28, 2017 | #177 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: OH 6a
Posts: 592
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If there's going to be a microdwarf project, I'm willing participate.
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December 28, 2017 | #178 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 421
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I would grow all three, but the first two I like better.
Nice job!
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Sue "There are only two ways to live your life: as though nothing is a miracle, or as though everything is a miracle." Albert Einstein |
December 28, 2017 | #179 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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That is exciting Dan. I like the red/green stripe large cherry.
Yes, the 'house plant' varieties with good fruit are the way to go. I should take on another. I have room. For those interested, it is a good project, unofficially. Way too much work to start a full micro project but participation may start off something new. I should have lots of seed if this large dark cherry moves forward as I hope. That would be Sept 2018 for winter grow. If you request seed, no rules of course, a full 36 cell 1010 tray, 2-3 seed per cell, allows a good 'hunt'. Micros 'behave', meaning they stay small and compact for some time. 8-10 weeks before potting up. Culling/clipping any that shoot up beyond a few inches...4-6. End up with a tray of 12-18. Cull again for the strong ones. Or what you have room for. I have six now in 4-inch pots and just started another tray at Thanksgiving. Snow covered and cold now, but come warmer weather just a few months away, I'll have nice plants under 15 inches with lots of fruit. Well ahead of my toms headed for the garden. |
December 28, 2017 | #180 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ireland
Posts: 211
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I look for great taste on a plant as short and compact as is feasible, and that needs no more elaborate support than a basic 18inch 3ring support frame.
I don't worry about pretty... Because I think all tomato plants are pretty |
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