pH help

**Lee** · May 2, 2008

I just got back a soil test that was taken by the lawn fertlizer service.
The results ain't great. Not surprising, as it's a new yard/subdivision.

Anyway, here's the results:

pH - 5.0 !

P - 0
K-50
N- Add 5-10-10 20lbs/1000 sq ft

Lime - Add 90lbs/1000 sq ft

Well, I've got the lawn people on the case with a couple of planned lime treatments
over the next 6-12 months, but what should I do about the new tomato bed?

I did ammend heavily the new garden with cow manure, top soil, organic matter,
lime, and a little organic fertilizer. Do you think that should be enough, or
should I get some more bone meal & lime in that bed.

I guess I could always plant a few blueberries and azaleas! But this ain't
blueberryville, so give it to me straight on the maters.

Of course, they might be some mighty tart maters comin' to Tomatopalooza[tm]
this year!

Lee

Ruth_10 · May 2, 2008

I would get the soil in the tomato bed tested and tested at a university extension or some such rather than a lawn service. You might be just fine with the amendments you've already added. Some of that stuff takes a while to work, but, again, you've added the right stuff.

Was phosphorous really zero?

Hilde · May 3, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee

pH - 5.0 !

If you like blueberries you should take advantage of your acid soil and plant some bushes!

PaulF · May 3, 2008

I agree with Ruth, it seems like you have done the right thing for this year with the addition of lime and the other ammendments. A soil test by your local university extension which is usually very inexpensive and is geared toward the crops you raise. They do a good job of explaining nutrient levels and needs.

**Lee** · May 3, 2008

The soil test was done by the NCSU Dept of Ag and consumer services, so it
should be spot on.
I probably should get a soil sample/test done of the new tomato bed, but it
probably won't be accurate as we just put the bed in. I'll keep an eye on the
plants and let them tell me if I've got problems this season. I have a bad
feeling about BER this year......

Lee

jcmorse33 · May 3, 2008

Last year when I was building the raised bed that is my primary "garden" the soil tests came back with a pH of 5.1. Since I wanted to bulk up and increase the organic content and friability of the soil (as I had primarily a clay base) I knew I was going to be mixing in peat moss further lowering the overall pH. So I went ahead and added the full recommended lime amount along with enough composted manure to give the recommended N-P-K addition for the year. Then I added additional composted manure, lime, and Tomato Tone to the bottom of the planting holes (ala Earl's Hole method)when I put out my tomatoes (pretty much down in the clay past the ammended soil). I had very little BER from plants in the bed and the fruit I did lose came during the middle of a hot dry spell. I suspect that if I had watered more regularly I might not have lost any from the bed.

Your mileage may vary of course. But I was pleased with my results since it was my first year gardening having any real idea of what I was doing and my first year seriously trying OP tomatoes to boot.

--Justin

Patapsco Mike · May 5, 2008

Seconding Hilde's suggestion. You could have blueberry bushes that go crazy with not much work on your part. Also holly bushes, azaleas, etc. When life gives you lemons...

For the tomatoes, I'd consider a raised bed or do it yourself Earthboxes- though I'm guessing you could do pretty well with just digging a $10 hole for each plant and using some lime.

celticman · May 5, 2008

If you just interested in pH I would take a teaspoon of dirt from the bed and but it in a 1/4cup of distilled water and stick a piece of good pH paper in the water. As you pointed out Lime (depending on the type) takes time. The trick is to much is as bad as to little. pH is tied closely to what form the Phosphorus is in ie H3PO4 or H2PO4- or HPO4-- or PO4---and can really effect the plant. I won't go into the details concerning the fact several of phosphorus forms are presant. Deferant plant like it differant mixtures which governed by soil pH. A lot of pH ranges are listed for tomatoes 5.3 to 6.5. I think 6 to 6.3 is considered ideal. Considering you what you added I would think you were at least to the 5.3 level. I would check the pH some how before adding more lime.
Celtic

organichris · May 5, 2008

I would add what you were planning to amend with plus steamed bone meal and compost. The bone meal will also help with the pH level plus add the much needed phosphorus.

May 2, 2008	#1
Lee Tomatopalooza™ Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NC-Zone 7 Posts: 2,188	pH help I just got back a soil test that was taken by the lawn fertlizer service. The results ain't great. Not surprising, as it's a new yard/subdivision. Anyway, here's the results: pH - 5.0 ! P - 0 K-50 N- Add 5-10-10 20lbs/1000 sq ft Lime - Add 90lbs/1000 sq ft Well, I've got the lawn people on the case with a couple of planned lime treatments over the next 6-12 months, but what should I do about the new tomato bed? I did ammend heavily the new garden with cow manure, top soil, organic matter, lime, and a little organic fertilizer. Do you think that should be enough, or should I get some more bone meal & lime in that bed. I guess I could always plant a few blueberries and azaleas! But this ain't blueberryville, so give it to me straight on the maters. Of course, they might be some mighty tart maters comin' to Tomatopalooza[tm] this year! Lee __________________ Intelligence is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put one in a fruit salad. Cuostralee - The best thing on sliced bread.

May 2, 2008	#2
Ruth_10 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: MO z6a near St. Louis Posts: 1,349	I would get the soil in the tomato bed tested and tested at a university extension or some such rather than a lawn service. You might be just fine with the amendments you've already added. Some of that stuff takes a while to work, but, again, you've added the right stuff. Was phosphorous really zero? __________________ --Ruth Some say the glass half-full. Others say the glass is half-empty. To an engineer, it’s twice as big as it needs to be.

May 3, 2008	#4
PaulF Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Brownville, Ne Posts: 3,296	I agree with Ruth, it seems like you have done the right thing for this year with the addition of lime and the other ammendments. A soil test by your local university extension which is usually very inexpensive and is geared toward the crops you raise. They do a good job of explaining nutrient levels and needs. __________________ there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes.

May 3, 2008	#5
Lee Tomatopalooza™ Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NC-Zone 7 Posts: 2,188	The soil test was done by the NCSU Dept of Ag and consumer services, so it should be spot on. I probably should get a soil sample/test done of the new tomato bed, but it probably won't be accurate as we just put the bed in. I'll keep an eye on the plants and let them tell me if I've got problems this season. I have a bad feeling about BER this year...... Lee __________________ Intelligence is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put one in a fruit salad. Cuostralee - The best thing on sliced bread.

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May 3, 2008	#6
jcmorse33 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Central Virginia Posts: 242	Last year when I was building the raised bed that is my primary "garden" the soil tests came back with a pH of 5.1. Since I wanted to bulk up and increase the organic content and friability of the soil (as I had primarily a clay base) I knew I was going to be mixing in peat moss further lowering the overall pH. So I went ahead and added the full recommended lime amount along with enough composted manure to give the recommended N-P-K addition for the year. Then I added additional composted manure, lime, and Tomato Tone to the bottom of the planting holes (ala Earl's Hole method)when I put out my tomatoes (pretty much down in the clay past the ammended soil). I had very little BER from plants in the bed and the fruit I did lose came during the middle of a hot dry spell. I suspect that if I had watered more regularly I might not have lost any from the bed. Your mileage may vary of course. But I was pleased with my results since it was my first year gardening having any real idea of what I was doing and my first year seriously trying OP tomatoes to boot. --Justin

May 5, 2008	#7
Patapsco Mike Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Ellicott City, MD Posts: 62	Seconding Hilde's suggestion. You could have blueberry bushes that go crazy with not much work on your part. Also holly bushes, azaleas, etc. When life gives you lemons... For the tomatoes, I'd consider a raised bed or do it yourself Earthboxes- though I'm guessing you could do pretty well with just digging a $10 hole for each plant and using some lime.

May 5, 2008	#8
celticman Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: NC Posts: 170	If you just interested in pH I would take a teaspoon of dirt from the bed and but it in a 1/4cup of distilled water and stick a piece of good pH paper in the water. As you pointed out Lime (depending on the type) takes time. The trick is to much is as bad as to little. pH is tied closely to what form the Phosphorus is in ie H3PO4 or H2PO4- or HPO4-- or PO4---and can really effect the plant. I won't go into the details concerning the fact several of phosphorus forms are presant. Deferant plant like it differant mixtures which governed by soil pH. A lot of pH ranges are listed for tomatoes 5.3 to 6.5. I think 6 to 6.3 is considered ideal. Considering you what you added I would think you were at least to the 5.3 level. I would check the pH some how before adding more lime. Celtic

May 5, 2008	#9
organichris Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 630	I would add what you were planning to amend with plus steamed bone meal and compost. The bone meal will also help with the pH level plus add the much needed phosphorus.