Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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October 20, 2010 | #16 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
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b54red, just to show you variation - Old Virginia was one of my most vigorous, rampant varieties...I see you point we a standard at a particular date, but think it is meaningless because there are too many variables of temperature/conditions, how you grow them (culture), etc.
I've never found any "height" information remotely useful - I treat all indeterminates the same and deal with whatever happens. Same with days to maturity - just too many variables.
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Craig |
October 20, 2010 | #17 |
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I've seen a few varieties described as "aggressive growers". I used to believe that meant they grow taller. Now I interpret it to mean they simply grow fast. My Prudens Purple, Cuostralee, and Brandywine plants would have been described by me this year as "aggressive growers". They simply outpaced the other indeterminates by a wide margin. The other indeterminates eventually reached the same height, but they took longer to get there. The term "compact" may also refer to how far out the branches spread as it grows upwards. Some varieties seem to bloom and fruit farther from the plant center than others. Some seem to retain the fruit in a more compact form closer to the main stem. I may simply be misinterpreting the terminology people use to describe plant growth habits.
Ted |
October 20, 2010 | #18 |
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Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
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Ted, not all indeterminates are created equal in terms of the genes that they have which relate to plant habit which allows some to grow longer vines than others.
So I'm one who doesn't think that references to "growing faster" is a useful way to look at it in terms of the height data you're looking for. As Craig has pointed out there are just too many variables floating around that will have some folks saying a variety grows 10 ft tall when another person says the same variety, as grown elsewhere and perhaps in a different year says that variety will top ou at 5 ft. Soils and how each person grows their tomatoes as well as amendments added as well as weather in a given season are highly variable not just for one person in one place but also refer to others who are growing that same variety in a different geographic location. So I'm with Craig in terms if ignoring heights of tomatoes as well as DTM's, which are sheer guesstimates in my experience and also my opinion. Grow'em, if you like them grow them again, if MANY others tell you it's a great variety and your results don't support that then grow it a second time before you reject it. At least that's what I usually do and I know others who do the same.
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Carolyn |
October 20, 2010 | #19 |
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I will be growing twenty OP or heirloom varieties next spring. All of the conditions of available light, nutrition, moisture, and planting date will be the same. I plan on recording some of the growth habits of each plant in early spring, mid summer, and fall in my journal. I normally use the information for planning my garden layout. I also use it to determine which plants to grow. I don't see any reason to grow a plant that produces a few tomatoes on a huge plant when I can grow a plant that produces a lot of really good tasting tomatoes on a smaller plant. I think of it as plant efficiency. Taste will of course always be the primary deciding factor. I don't see any sense in growing any plant of any size that produces tomatoes that simply don't taste good. I also don't see any reason to grow a tomato plant that dies after the first week of 90 degree plus weather. My tomatoes will see hot weather every year. There are a lot of factors besides plant size that I consider or attempt to consider. Thats part of the fun of growing tomatoes for me.
Ted |
October 20, 2010 | #20 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
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Ted, do keep good records - I love data! Data to me is so much more valuable than here-say or random impressions!
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Craig |
October 20, 2010 | #21 |
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
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Haley's Purple Comet was a bigger cherry than I like; I much prefer Black Cherry for both its size and taste, and I much preferred the taste of Cherokee Purple to that of HPC- just one opinion, though. Also, HPC was very late to ripen compared to even much larger tomatoes and they nearly all managed to split even in a dry summer.
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October 20, 2010 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 269
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Tedln, Here ya go this is what I have, I grew 9 of WBF varietys in 09&10 this is what I found.
Pink Bekeley Tie-Dye: Short 4'-5' Indeterminate med-large dark purple with stripes Fantastic taste, low- average production, does not survive extreme heat. Berkeley Tie-Dye: Tall 6'-8' Indeterminate med -large Green with multi color stripes Fantastic taste very good production abit more heat tolerant. Porkchop: Tall 6'-8' Ind med-large bright yellow with neon yellow stripes Great taste very good production. Large Barred Boar: Short 4'-5' Ind Med-Large dark brown red stripe Fantastic taste Good production Black&Brown Boar: Tall 6'-8' Ind small oval dark brown red stripe Fantastic taste Fantastic production (my favorite WBF) Red Boar: Tall 6'-8' indet small round red with orange stripes Great taste very strong, fantastic production. Brads Blackheart: Short 5'-6' indet mostly med but some large dark purple heart shape wispy leafed great taste great production. Beauty King: Tall 6'-8' indet med-large Red with yellow stripes great production I found the taste to be very mild. Pink Boar: Tall 6'-8' Indet small round dark pink with green stripes great taste great producer |
October 20, 2010 | #23 |
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Thanks Bama Mater,
That is exactly what I was looking for. I assume conditions in your garden were identical for all the varieties. If so, that allows me to compare variety to variety. Did you only plant one of each variety or did you plant more than one of each. If you planted more than one, and each plant performed the same as another of the same variety, then the differences reflected should be based on genetic variations. I will be planting at least two and possibly three of each in the spring. I am disappointed that the PBTD didn't react well to the heat. Since it is supposedly a "compact" variety, I had high hopes for it. If I detect them struggling in the heat, I may put up a shade screen and see if that helps. I imagine your climate is similar to mine in zone 7b. I will give it a try and hope for the best. I will have some replacement varieties waiting in the wings to replace those that just can't cut it in the heat. I'm editing my comments to reflect my belief that if a plant produces well before dying in the heat, dying in the heat may be a good trait because you can then plant a successive plant. If another variety continues setting fruit and producing through the hot weather, that is also a good trait. If another variety can be planted in mid summer and bloom, set fruit, and produce to first frost; that is a good trait. If a plant produces well in the spring and then spends the summer barely hanging on to life while consuming nutrients and moisture, that is a bad trait to me. If a gardener can be aware of the potential size of plants, production tendencies, and climate preferences; it allows us to plan a productive garden from last frost to first frost. Ted Last edited by tedln; October 21, 2010 at 03:53 PM. |
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