Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 21
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In early spring I prepared the holes for my tomato plants by digging in bagged manure, compost and some fertilizer into 12" x 12" deep holes. All tomatoes exhibited signs of 2-4D herbicide damage. A NCDA inspector came and ruled out any drift from 2-4D and thought it was rather aminopyralid contaminated manure as two successive plantings had the same damage. (A bioassay was basically done) This is the only spot in my backyard that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight. I read somewhere that turning over the soil will hasten the breakdown of this herbicide. Do you think if I remove all of the dirt in the holes this fall and some beyond the original holes and replace with good soil and then till the entire bed this will "cleanse" the soil for next spring?
Thank you for any suggestions. Jennie |
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#2 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
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Jennie
I can't answer your direct question since I only grow in containers. But I can suggest possibly using containers with potting soil until your contamination is dissipated.
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Michael |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 587
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Use a good bio stimulator. Till in good carbon sources into the soil, and humic acid. Keep it watered so it won't dry out.
I have used this product with excellent result. http://www.hortsorb.com/DIEHARD_BioRush.asp A little goes a long way. |
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: California Central Valley
Posts: 2,542
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Here's a web site that discusses what to do
http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/picloram.html |
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#5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 587
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Keith |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 21
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Thank you both.
Jennie |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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I used aminopyralid contaminated manure once in 2009, and it affected one area of my garden to the point of destroying a few tomato plants and causing severe leaf curl and blossom death in a few more. Luckily it did not carry over into 2010. I do add compost and till it in each winter, but I'm guessing the contaminated manure I used in 2009 had aged past the critical half life, because I understand that aminopyralid can affect tomatoes for up to 3 or 4 years.
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#8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 21
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in the area as the article suggested using as a bioassay before the tomatoes go in. If the peas show symptoms, I guess I will end up container gardening. Thank you for all of your input. |
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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Jennie -
Are you familiar with the effects of calcium and magnesium on the soil? Calcium will loosen or "open up" the soil whereas magnesium will make it much tighter. I would suggest getting a soil test to determine the "base saturation percentage" of your soil. This will tell you precisely how much calcium and magnesium you have (in addition to other macro and micro nutrients). Not all labs to a base saturation test, so make sure you find one that does - I use Logan Labs in Ohio. The reason I make this recommendation is that, in your situation, it's critically important to have enough calcium so that the soil can let go of contaminants. If you have too much magnesium, it will hold tight and you'll have a very difficult time ridding yourself of them. Typically you need around 65% calcium. You might even want to go to 70 or 75% in the short term, until you're sure the soil is clear. |
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#10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 21
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#11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 219
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fortyone: calcium and magnesium both cause floculation of soil particles, so the contaminants within the flocs would be less exposed to weathering or oxidation, not more as you suggest, for most loamy soils. If your soil is clayey you've got bigger problems dispersing anything.
sodium acts to disperse soil particles, but it would not be wise or prudent to add sodium to soil to hasten weathering or oxidation of an organic contaminant. the best way to enhance oxidation is with organic matter and plentiful microbial activity as others have suggested. |
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#12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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I'm not arguing against the organic matter approach. My suggestion is to make sure there is enough C to permit free movement through the soil so that weathering (e.g. rain) will help disperse and carry-off the contaminants. Unless C is 60% or higher, this won't happen and the soil with have to rely solely on oxidation.
I'm not familiar with how tightly this specific contaminant is bound to the soil colloids, but I've seen the calcium approach used for salt and oil contamination. Quote:
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