another ID help

[ContainerTed]

Originally Posted by RayR

That's Early Blight and it's sporelating. Cut those infected leaves off and trash them pronto. Exel lg does not control Early Blight, Actinovate does, keep spraying both sides of the leaves and the surface of the bed.

Ted, you can't feed a pathogenic fungus like Early Blight. They are not free living organisms, they have to infect a plant and get their food from their victim to survive and multiply.

Ray, no offense, but the first picture shows only leaves from the lower part of the plant. This is usually the most shaded part of the plant and some yellowing here is normal and non lethal. But moisture damage can also look like this, especially when excess moisture is in the formula. The darker, more damaged portions of the leaves are on the bottom of the leaves shown, again suggesting that excess moisture remained and caused some damage. All the other plants are said to be okay. Early blight isn't usually so selective as to pick out only one plant and only damage that one to the extent shown.

Without seeing the rest of the plant, I would not make the call of early blight or anything else right now. An antifungal will be good move even if the plant is not suffering from anything. Adding bacterial accelerators like molasses just doesn't make sense right now. I just don't think we have enough real information to make the final call on this one.

JMHO

[TightenUp]

i have been considering the bleach solution as well.

the weather over the next few days shoots up into the 90's so i am going to see what happens and go from there.

Ted while i do have a few healthy plants most in the bed are showing bacterial speck. the really healthy plants i am referring to are in pots at another location that are receiving the molasses actinoavte and exel

[ContainerTed]

Nuff said. Again, I don't recommend my methods to anyone. Hope it all works out well for you.

[RayR]

Originally Posted by ContainerTed

Ray, no offense, but the first picture shows only leaves from the lower part of the plant. This is usually the most shaded part of the plant and some yellowing here is normal and non lethal. But moisture damage can also look like this, especially when excess moisture is in the formula. The darker, more damaged portions of the leaves are on the bottom of the leaves shown, again suggesting that excess moisture remained and caused some damage. All the other plants are said to be okay. Early blight isn't usually so selective as to pick out only one plant and only damage that one to the extent shown.

Without seeing the rest of the plant, I would not make the call of early blight or anything else right now. An antifungal will be good move even if the plant is not suffering from anything. Adding bacterial accelerators like molasses just doesn't make sense right now. I just don't think we have enough real information to make the final call on this one.

JMHO

I understand Ted, yellowing is one thing, but spreading necrotic areas with black dots are fungal spore masses. he should be able to see them on the bottom of a leaf with a strong magnifying glass. I have the same thing showing up on one of my Brandywines on a few lower leaves in the last 2 days and it hasn't been very wet here. I sprayed heavily today, we'll see what happens tomorrow.

[ContainerTed]

Originally Posted by RayR

I understand Ted, yellowing is one thing, but spreading necrotic areas with black dots are fungal spore masses. he should be able to see them on the bottom of a leaf with a strong magnifying glass. I have the same thing showing up on one of my Brandywines on a few lower leaves in the last 2 days and it hasn't been very wet here. I sprayed heavily today, we'll see what happens tomorrow.

I always recommend spraying with Garden Safe 3 because for some unknown reason, garden critters seem to know which plant is stressed and having problems. They go straight to it and begin their assault. Garden Safe is a really good antifungal, a pretty good insecticide, and a fair miticide. My goal is always to take stress away from the plant - give it some room to fight back. It is a living organism and can defend itself up to a point.

I tend not to pull plants quickly. I'm more into isolating them and trying different things to save them. Each time I do this, I learn something new. The first thing I learned was patience and persistance. Saving plants helps me to learn how to do preventative things. But, again, it's just my way of doing it.

Good luck with your plants. I hope they survive. Losing all the care and hard work we put into them is always a hard pill to swallow.

Regards