spider mites won this year

[jamserg]

Never had such a big problem before. Pretty much every plant out of about 50 (in different locations) is dying because of spider mites. I had enough time to get plenty of tomatoes, but no more. Tried pretty much every mentioned on the site remedy, spent bunch of money, but they won. Any similar experience to share and thoughts for the future would be appreciated.

[augiedog55]

I've got them on one plant at my house. I've sprayed take down twice and spinod once in 10 days. Burned a few leaves along the way but i think they are coming back. Tonight i'm pulling that plant. The plants on either side don't seem to be affected... No I"M PULLING THAT PLANT NOW. I"LL BE BACK

[jamserg]

I pulled some, but a lot of my plants already had beautiful tomatoes, so I couldn't do it. For the next season I'm trying to figure out preventive measure/spray and use it before they show up

[augiedog55]

Well its pulled bagged and in the trash. Last yr at this time they took my plants. I hate them. PS.
the plant i pulled was a burpee fourth of july. If you want a plants that pumps out golf ball size tomatoes try this one. Its a 45 day tom.

[ChrisK]

In my experience, once they establish a beachhead the war is all but over. Hot stressed plants are a SM magnet.

[Cole_Robbie]

Sorry about the mites, it would be helpful if you would share what you did that didn't work. Did you try an organophosphate miticide?

[b54red]

I slowed them down considerably with two sprayings of IGR and Permithrin; but about 5 or 6 weeks later they came back with a vengeance when most of my plants were already sick with fusarium. I repeated the spray one more time but ran out of IGR. The few plants I have that are still alive have some mites on them; but the new seedlings I set out haven't been hit by them yet so I am going to spray again.

The only poison that really knocks them down fast that I have tried is Malathion; but you have to use it in a concentration that will burn tomato leaves somewhat and you have to keep repeating the spray to be effective long term. I also don't like applying anything that strong to my tomatoes so I'll stick with the Permethrin and IGR which has worked the best and seems the lesser of evils.

[Cole_Robbie]

Dichlorvos kills mites...and probably people, too, in long enough and concentrated enough doses. But boy does it kill mites...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlorvos

The United States Environmental Protection Agency first considered a ban on DDVP in 1981. Since then it has been close to being banned on several occasions, but continues to be available. Major concerns are over acute and chronic toxicity.

[jamserg]

I tried neem oil, spinosad and azamax

The only insecticide I use is an Ortho Orthane powder with Acephate which is an Organophosphate. The only place I use it is on fire ant mounds and it is great for that purpose. Life wouldn't be worth living in the south if we were not allowed to or couldn't kill fire ants.

Acephate is also used on vegetable crops but I have never seen it in a commercial product for home owners for any use except fire ants. One reason it isn't marketed for garden application may be the fact that it is a systemic insecticide with long lasting effects. The only toxic effect I have found published is it causes some birds to lose the ability to differentiate between north and south. Because it is a systemic insecticide, it is supposed to be highly effective against all sucking insects including aphids and mites.

Another insecticide which is supposedly effective against a wide variety of insects, long lasting, and apparently has no known toxic effects on humans is Tempo. The active ingredient is beta-cyfluthrin which is apparently a synthetic permethrin. It is commonly used by commercial applicators in homes, hospitals, food service, and other applications where humans may come in contact with it but it is important to control the spread of disease by insects. I've never seen it sold for garden application and it is very, very expensive.

Ted

[Mlm1]

I had a severe infestation of spider mites on two ornamental trees a few years ago. I released predator mites and the trees recovered within a few weeks. I haven't had any problem since then. I don't know how they would work for tomato plants but I bet the people at Arbico Organics could tell you whether it would work, which predator mite to order and when to release.
Marla

[coastal bend]

Acephate is the generic of Orhtene. they use it on Cotton for plant bug control. It won't trans locate to new growth. Looses it power in about 4 days. It is a good product for the Cotton farmers. It won't control mites in cotton. Might work better on vegetables .

[kurt]

Originally Posted by Mlm1

I had a severe infestation of spider mites on two ornamental trees a few years ago. I released predator mites and the trees recovered within a few weeks. I haven't had any problem since then. I don't know how they would work for tomato plants but I bet the people at Arbico Organics could tell you whether it would work, which predator mite to order and when to release.
Marla

I agree the only way to balance the bugs from infestation is by nature itself.Predator mites, pirate bugs,lady bugs are the only thing I use when I need to here in S Florida.The cost of these are way less than the chemical pesticides you end up dumping in your garden all season long.All you end up doing is killing the beneficials anyway.

[mcsee]

Originally Posted by jamserg

For the next season I'm trying to figure out preventive measure/spray and use it before they show up

We use a soluble Sulphur Fungicide for Powdery Mildew on our crop with the name of Thiovit Jet, a Syngenta Product. This is also recommended for use on Russet Mite and Two Spotted Mite and is very effective.

Is this product available in the USA??

[jamserg]

I wonder what professional/farm growers do to fight this problem? I'm sure there's quite a few on this forum. tia