A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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October 17, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 625
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Rock Dust?
I did a search on this forum but didn't find much info about it. Has anyone had great success with adding rock dust to your soil? I am considering it but would love to hear your stories on how it affected your garden.
http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/727/ http://www.nytimes.com/2004/06/24/ga...does-grow.html |
October 17, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Near Reno, NV
Posts: 1,621
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Very interesting articles! There are a lot of quarries around here. I think this deserves some investigation over the Winter!
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October 18, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Durhamville,NY
Posts: 2,706
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I have several thoughts on this.
If an area is missing a trace mineral you aren't apt to get it near by. Rock dust is heavy. It's got to be in the area of 2500 lbs per yard. Very expensive to move any distance. I think if you pick the right rock dust based on a good soil test it could help. If you are just trying to over come depletion I think I'd lean toward gathering organic material and planting deep rooted crops for compost. The exception being ag lime. |
October 20, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 252
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I am currently using Basalt dust from a local quarry. I started last year with a dust that was reported to me to be 90% thru a #200 mesh screen. I added 1/3 lb /sq ft with my regular amendments of home made compost, dolomite lime and an organic seed meal fertilizer. This year I added another 1/3 lb / sq ft of a reported 50% thru a #200 mesh screen. So I'm up to 2/3 lb/sq ft. I'm proceeding with caution because I am in the continuing process of researching the use of using rock dust. My main interest is increasing the nutrient density and improving the taste of the food I grow. I do not use any chemicals in my gardening. My experience so far is that I believe that I am growing the best tasting vegetables I have ever grown. I routinely have other folks who I give produce to say that it is the best tasting produce they have ever had. Although I have no scientific proof that my yields are higher than before the rock dust, they continue to be excellent. My earthworm population continues to increase. I have run a controlled experiment with a small sample of 2 sets of tomatoes and believe the rock dust amended tomatoes were superior. However the sample size was too small to be conclusive. I'm very encouraged by the results so far. And by the way, I have picked up about 1800lbs from the quarry so far for free.
I started a thread on this forum called soil building for nutrient density which I will be updating shortly. Glenn |
October 21, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Iowa Zone 5
Posts: 305
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Pdx,
One thing I can contribute is a photo I took when our organic gardening club visited a natural farming operation last July. Everyone in attendance was impressed by the garden edibles area, including myself. Here’s a link to where we were at: http://www.growingngracenaturalfarm....egetables.html Anyway, I asked what their ‘secret’ to abundant success was, and he told us about their annual re-mineralizing. So I took a picture of the brochure: http://s494.photobucket.com/user/sim...ng%20N%20Grace So you can google Planters Foundation Minerals, - this is a source that some may find useful. -Randy
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Tomatovillain |
October 28, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 625
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Composter, I wish I had such a resource!
I think using rock dust to remineralize is a great idea. I did buy a 50 lb bag of Gaia Green glacial rock dust and have been sprinkling it around all my winter veggies. I am going to liberally sprinkle it on my community garden plots and then mulch with leaves to keep the weeds down. Then plant in it next spring and see what happens! I have heard it makes the veggies more delicious and nutritious as well. |
October 29, 2013 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 252
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Quote:
As I have stated in my thread on building soils for nutrient density, the great thing about the rock dust is once you have remineralized you should not need to do it again for years if not decades. Glenn |
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October 29, 2013 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Quote:
kath |
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October 29, 2013 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 252
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Quote:
Glenn |
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October 29, 2013 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Quote:
kath |
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October 29, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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Glenn, is rock dust from slate yards? I pass plenty slate yards where I camp in the summer. Are similar amendments available in garden centers? tia
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john |
October 29, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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nnjjohn, slate is a hard metamorphic rock originating from shale which is composed of very fine clay particles, so it weathers very slowly into very fine clay particles. Probably not a good idea if you already have sticky clay soils. Not much valuable mineral content there either other than calcium, magnesium and iron mostly I think.
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October 30, 2013 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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Quote:
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john Last edited by nnjjohn; October 30, 2013 at 07:41 AM. |
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October 30, 2013 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Quote:
kath |
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October 30, 2013 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 252
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Quote:
Glenn |
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