Need help IDing this disease

[b54red]

Cutting off the diseased foliage will not stop TSWV. If you get rid of the spotted or speckled foliage and it doesn't show up in a few days somewhere else on the plant you are dealing with something else.

Bill

[Vespertino]

I know, once they have it, they have it. If it is tswv I'm hoping the survivors won't be too badly effected going forward. If they start deteriorating again or if they become stunted I'll probably pull them. Right now they look good and are putting out new healthy leaves. Even if it's not tsvw the thrips need to go.

[Dewayne mater]

If you find a thrip control that is less harmful than spinosad, please report back! Neem and insecticidal soap has no effect whatsoever on their population at my place. Spinosad is considered a natural product and I've heard it can be used in an organic garden because of being OMRI listed. Not organic in California though. As to bees, my understanding is that it is toxic to them if sprayed directly on them, but, once dried, it has little to no effect on them. That is why it is a good idea to spray this very late in the day when the bees are less active. As I understand it, used properly, it is among the safest alternatives available and so far it is effective against thrips. That said, we all have varying levels of comfort with the products we use and I have tremendous respect for anyone that can grow anything with a purely organic approach. I try to use as few chemicals as possible and use them when it is most safe for the environment (like spraying this at dusk) because my family is eating it and I care about the environment. That said, if I didn't use some products like this, I wouldn't have anything that survived.

Dewayne Mater

[Cheryl2017]

Beneficial nematodes applied in very early spring is supposed to help at least control the population of thrips. Once they are here though. I have had some success with both a homade mixture of soap and neem or spinosad

[Vespertino]

Thanks guys! The bees probably love that rose bush more than the thrips do, there are so many flowers on it and the plant is HUGE (did I mention that it's eating the corner of my house?). Whenever I walk by I hear the humming of hungry bees going after the pollen. It would break my heart to hurt the bees since we have fewer of them every year. I'll let you know what I try out and if it works.

[kurt]

If you have a constant source of nectar/pollen(rose,gardenia,bougenvilla etc)you might look into letting about 200-300 store bought ladybugs loose in the rose bush.They come in 1000/bag.put them in the fridge,release a couple hundred a day around the yard/garden.They will devour and thrip/scale/aphid etc.They will stay around if you provide some moisture, food(bugs/pollen nectar).

[rnewste]

I've just released about 1500 ladybugs on the tomatoes to work on the Whitefly population. They are inexpensive ($13.00 delivered by first class mail in a few days).

http://www.hirts.com/Live-Ladybugs-G...&searchSize=12

Raybo

[Vespertino]

I've been thinking about them along with lacewings, and will probably give it a try - though they might not stick around once they pick the rose clean. Other than my tomato plants the only flowering plant on my property is that huge rose bush, everything else is grass. That will change over the next few years, though The previous owners didn't seem to want anything living in the back yard unless it could be mowed. It's probably doesn't help my yard because there's not much to attract the beneficial bugs.

In a way it's kind of neat that the yard doesn't have anything in it, because it's sort of like a blank slate. But man, it's barren and I have a lot of work to do next year! Raised beds, lots of plants, bubs, groundcovers, ferns and trees!!! (and a ton of tomatoes and veggies!)

[Vespertino]

I'm going to give the beneficial nematodes a try (apparently you can spray the foliage with it as well as give the ground a good soaking), followed up with lacewings a day or two later. Marhsall Grain had the nemotodes but no lacewings so I have to find an online supplier.

I have a couple rose bushes on the front lawn, sadly those were covered in thrips too. Luckily I should have more than enough nematodes to treat all of them.

[Marcus1]

I've had good luck keeping thrips. aphids, psyllids,and mealy bugs under control using Botani Gard 22 WP (beauveria bassiana). I spray once a week alternating with neem and soap . The key for me is to start early and keep the populations down before they get out of control because once harvest starts I have little time for spraying.

[rnewste]

Marcus,

Have you looked at their ES formulation?

http://www.bioworksbiocontrol.com/pr...anigard-es.php

Looks like the 1 quart bottle has the same content as the 1 pound dry WP package. About the same cost:

http://www.tampaagriculturalproducts...botanigard-es/

Raybo

[Marcus1]

Thanks Raybo, I've used both products with good results. The WP was just a little cheaper from my supplier, American Clayworks , at least last year. I use it for mainly spyllids and aphids on toms, the thrips seem to bother the cabbage and glads more.

[rnewste]

Thanks Marcus,

Just ordered a bottle of the ES from TampaAG:



Looks potent - yet relatively harmless to the plants and environment in the way it kills the bad guys from the inside out. Not cheap at $64.00 plus shipping - - but if it works as advertized, I will be a Happy Camper!

Raybo