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Old June 14, 2015   #31
Nematode
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Default leaf leaf truss truss truss

Fish Lake is feeling frisky. 5 trusses in a row, not sure what that's all about
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Last edited by Nematode; June 15, 2015 at 11:42 AM. Reason: pic shows 3 trusses, plant has 5 in that internode
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Old June 14, 2015   #32
HydroExplorer
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Lookin good
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Old June 15, 2015   #33
Nematode
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Eggs on dill are black swallowtail butterfly eggs.
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Old June 15, 2015   #34
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I am using Canna coco substrate and following mix for 5 liter of feed:

16ml Canna Coco A
16ml Canna Coco B
~4ml Canna Risotonic
~4ml Canna Zym

I am using espresso cleaner to bring pH to 5.8. EC is around 2.0.

Tomato plants love it.
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Old June 17, 2015   #35
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Default herbicide damage?

Looks like I might have some herbicide damage, what you guys think?
Could this be another stressor or is it classic 2,4,D?

25 of 35 plants are showing it. sungold sunsugar seem immune...for now
at least one stupice will be dead within days, leaves are limp and hanging straight down.

Hopefully they will pull through and i'll get a couple tomatoes.


sux

Nematode.
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Old June 17, 2015   #36
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I don't know what herbicide damage looks like.

I do know that you can get droop from a few nutrient problems. It's hard to tell from your pic but this chart might be helpful.
https://www.hydroponics.net/learn/nu...ficiencies.asp

Also, I found a good youtube channel on hydro stuff. I learned a lot from this guy last night. I decided I need to get an RO filter
https://www.youtube.com/user/Just4Growers/videos

RO filter will make managing all your nutrient stuff a lot easier to do. It will also make you need calmag but that's a better Ca Mg form than what makes water hard because calmag is plant available and water hardness is not.

Also, after watching this guy's channel I am more inclined to give chemical hydro another shot. I had moved away from it because it requries more maintenance than just growing stuff in fish tank water. It seems that it is also more controllable if you have the right tools for it.
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Old June 17, 2015   #37
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Why RO? All it takes is to control pH to have it at 5.8. However, you need proper hydroponics fertiliser. I am using coco substrate that is why I have chosen Canna Coco. Other brands may do it just as well. In order not to convert to salt fertiliser comes in two components.

You can also try Britta filters.

Last edited by crazybean; June 17, 2015 at 05:35 PM.
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Old June 17, 2015   #38
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While RO is a wonderful base, you'll find PH to be much less stable due to the lack of tds.. I personally blend my RO 60-40 with tap (more or less, depending on the stage of growth, additive being used etc).. The tap helps you to maintain stability (all the calcium), and the 60% RO dilutes enough to leave plenty of room for nutes to your target EC..

Hope you overcome the issues Nematode! It's such a bummer to put all our time and effort into nurturing these beauties, and then to see them get knocked down.. Like losing a friend almost.. (am I being overly dramatic? lol)
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Old June 18, 2015   #39
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RO is the best base. It removes the TDS caused by Ca and Mg carbonates which are not plant useable and block the root zone from uptaking nutrients. Then you add chelated Ca and Mg which is plant useable.

This according to Everest Fernandez on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rg8URazaZlM

I think this guy knows a lot more about hydro than I do. I certainly can't debate his results... He does seem to throw money into his garden in a very willynilly sort of way though lol. Regardless, after watching his videos I realized I have been doing a lot of things wrong and it explains a lot of the problems I have had. I've only been doing hydro about 4 years so I'm still a bit of a newb at it.
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Old June 19, 2015   #40
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Dr. Cooper who developed the NFT technique found that maintaining the root zone temperature at 70 deg. F was optimum for tomato growth and production.

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Old June 19, 2015   #41
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Default Recovering

Plants are recovering. I fertilized the yard with the reservoir, ran tap water through the drippers for 30 minutes, and mixed a new batch of nutrient. I was rushing a little when mixing the previous batch and could have mixed something up, but I am suspicious that some of the nutrients I received are not what I ordered. They are all white powders in ziploc bags with magic marker scrawled on 2 of the 3 items. If they are smoking what the site looks like it is geared to growing, a mixup would be very likely
Anyway switched to last years leftovers and things are looking better.
It doesnt make a lot of sense last year I absolutely tortured the plants and they never looked near as bad as they did a couple days ago. This year I am trying to take it easier on them.

Nematode
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Old June 19, 2015   #42
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Default Hoverfly vs aphids

Was pruning some lower leaves this morning, most were clean, but there were 2 or 3 that were completely infested with aphids. Hundreds, many hundreds.
Made up my mind to spray, but was sitting in the garden and saw a couple hoverflies working over the infested areas. Maybe since the infestation is not widespread I'll see if the hoverflies will take care of the aphids. Its good to have minions.

Nematode, King of the garden realm, for now.
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Old June 19, 2015   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nematode View Post
Was pruning some lower leaves this morning, most were clean, but there were 2 or 3 that were completely infested with aphids. Hundreds, many hundreds.
Made up my mind to spray, but was sitting in the garden and saw a couple hoverflies working over the infested areas. Maybe since the infestation is not widespread I'll see if the hoverflies will take care of the aphids. Its good to have minions.

Nematode, King of the garden realm, for now.

Gotta hate those darn aphids, but best of luck your highness!
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Old June 20, 2015   #44
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Plants are looking baaad again. Think its herbicide damage.
Posted pics in the "pest" area.
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Old June 21, 2015   #45
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Default hydroponic potato

Let's file this under better late than never.

These are pulls from some Wagner supplied seeds grown to tubers last season.

bed is 4x4
media is pine shavings
spacing is approx 8" per stem
nutrient feed is same as the rest of the garden.

I have noticed pine shavings can be a rough start for some plants, but they usually catch up later. Possibly terpenes acting as root inhibitors that have to wash out.

Hopefully something will come of it.
Since they are Wagner sourced and have lots of phureja I may also have missed a day length tuberization window.

Good thing I can afford to buy food, garden is one big experiment.

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