January 1, 2016 | #61 | |
Tomatovillian™
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I went to the store and compared the MG organic raised bed soil to the other organic soils they had. There isn't that much difference but price and amount. Worth |
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January 1, 2016 | #62 |
Tomatovillian™
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I didn't see that post but some people wont use the bagged garden soil for pots. To be honest I wanted the potting mix instead but ended up with both, a couple bags of this and a couple bags of that. Worked out well. When I was potting up I made sure to loosen the soil/mix well and added some perlite along with the fertilizer I mentioned. Good results so far, despite the fact I got greedy and packed the containers in under the light. Half the plants shouldn't be in there as its crowded. Typical of me.
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January 2, 2016 | #63 |
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Once (last spring) there was a torn bag of MG organic garden soil that I checked it out. It had a pretty good structure for potting , with lots of what seemed to be pine barks. They call that stuff forest products. What is forest product ??? I liked it better than MG potting soil/mix.
The "Organic" part to me is just a fad and mislead. Forest matter, compost, peat moss,.. they are all organic ( remains of living things). The only INorganic soil is just what is commonly called "dirt" which to me it is noble soil. It is the mother of organisms. YMMV Gardeneer. |
January 2, 2016 | #64 | |
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January 2, 2016 | #65 |
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Not sure what this is, possibly mold growing on the bottom of the leaves. Chervena Chushka is the only plant doing this that I've noticed. The leaves seem thinner than those of Elephant's Ear, but doubt that would contribute in any way to this issue. It's a white crud that gets caked onto the backs of the leaves. The leaf I'm showing isn't as bad as some of the ones I discarded.
Last edited by OmahaJB; January 2, 2016 at 12:49 PM. |
January 2, 2016 | #66 | |
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January 2, 2016 | #67 | |
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January 2, 2016 | #68 |
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Johnnyhat, I don't know anything about ones that might contain both HPS and MH. The system I have came with two bulbs, MH and HPS, and it automatically detects which bulb is being used so the user doesn't have to make sure to turn a switch. I haven't looked on Amazon recently to check pricing but mine was very cheap in comparison to others, $116.05 with free shipping from California. Quite a deal!
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January 2, 2016 | #69 |
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I've never had them before but I'll look at some photos on Google to see. Thanks for the tip of what it might be Worth. It's the only plant with them so far, and they are crusted on, impossible to just wipe off.
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January 2, 2016 | #70 | |
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Quote:
http://www.eyehortilux.com/_controls/#collapse11 http://www.googleadservices.com/page...leBaseShopping https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/d...d-grow-lights/ Last edited by Worth1; January 2, 2016 at 01:15 PM. |
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January 2, 2016 | #71 |
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The first link I received an access denied message. The 2nd one I was able to see, but $162 a bulb. Although 600 watts that I would use would be a little cheaper. The bulbs that came with my system obviously were going to be low grade for the price I paid, but they have gotten the job done, I can't complain.
Edit: Just saw the third link. Hortilux really has gotten crazy with their prices. The first bulb listed in that third link is priced very fairly. Last edited by OmahaJB; January 2, 2016 at 01:23 PM. |
January 2, 2016 | #72 |
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Try the third link it has the real price.
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January 2, 2016 | #73 |
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How far away are your bulbs.?
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January 2, 2016 | #74 |
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Distance from the light is a problem due to having dwarves and indeterminates. I've been placing my hand at the top of the ind. plants to make sure they aren't getting too warm, which means having the light too far from the shorter plants. Surprised it's worked out as well as it has despite that issue. A couple times a week I add supplemental side lighting with a 300-watt PS type bulb in a brooder. It's not the right color spectrum for flowering/fruiting stages but it seems to help. Sometimes I use that side lighting a few days per week, the last couple of weeks have overlooked doing so enough.
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January 2, 2016 | #75 |
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I have read and from my own observations the 6500K bulbs do just fine for flowering and fruiting.
As a mater of fact the 2700k bulbs should only be supplemental to the larger 6500K if at all. That is why I go with bright daylight because it covers the whole spectrum. Here is a CD proving this. Just a thought. Worth |
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