A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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August 30, 2016 | #61 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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You make a valid point though, and will give it some thought. I do like the idea of using what's organically available to mend the garden soil. Incorporating the lime is no problem either for me. I think my ignorance is showing through. Soil composition is not a strong suit, so on the learning curve. |
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August 30, 2016 | #62 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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BUT, I would have another soil test done in the spring before planting, to make sure the levels are good. |
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August 30, 2016 | #63 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,825
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My last one was actually 3/8". Most of the time I used it to screen pine bark fines. The big chunks go to mulch, the small ones into a mix. (Think 5:1:1.) We had a recycling program, so beer bottles weren't that much of a problem.
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August 30, 2016 | #64 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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Only time I had beer bottles in the fire was when my adult kids had bonfires. I put a stop to that.
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August 30, 2016 | #65 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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Barbee |
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August 30, 2016 | #66 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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May I add that ash even ash from boxes will raise the pH it will also add K/potassium to your soil which it says it is low in.
Potassium is also called potash because it was discovered from ash from the burning of potted plants. Wood ash is what you also make lye from by running water through it. It is very caustic concentrated and is immediate. As was said bust up the charcoal and put it in the garden too. Be reminded the Ag extension guys recommend stuff from commercial sources. Worth |
August 30, 2016 | #67 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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August 30, 2016 | #68 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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I dont mind showing bias at all.
There is a place for both fields. One for the farmer trying to squeak out a living and one for the small gardener. I do think it is about time these Ag extension folks caught up with the times. I have been hearing the same repetitious BS from them for 50 years about amending soil. It all involves buying chemicals. Worth |
August 30, 2016 | #69 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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I would think lime to be organic. Figured it has been around since the stone age. (Pun intended)
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August 30, 2016 | #70 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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September 1, 2016 | #71 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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Do not till pelleted lime into your beds without letting rain or irrigation break them down into powders first.
You are basically returning the pellets into powder (it was powder before it was a pellet) by doing this, thus increasing the surface area of the lime for better and uniform reactivity. Your test shows what you need (like barbee said). You can determine exactly what purchased limestone has in it and be confident you are adding the right elements. Limestone is as natural as ash. Ash is fine option, but you don't have a really good idea of the exact elemental composition or quantity without getting it analyzed. So, how much you use will be a guess, and going with someone else's rate is blindly following their experience based on their soil and climate. Again, not wrong to use, but getting a test done implies you are looking for a some level of precision, and not following that up with known elements of specific quantities is sort of counter productive. Like if you had a blood test or stool test and it shows you are very low in iron. You know you can take an iron source, but how much and from what source. You could just say, well, I'll take molasses. Well, how much? How much do I need based on what is contained in molasses versus ground beef? You would need to know what each source contains, then figure on how much of either you need to consume to get to where you want to be. Hope that makes sense. |
September 1, 2016 | #72 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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The ash is at my disposal, and may add some along the way. However, my beds drain really well, which I believe helps keep disease at bay in early spring, and would have concern about too much sooty ash holding water. But a good thing to know for sure, as I can mix with new soil composition when making another bed or two - which I plan on doing this winter. Also knowing, instead of dumping on the elm on outskirt of property, it can used to top off around trees and such. In addition, I am not shooting for perfection, simple goal is to raise the pH, but not really fixated on a number. I am willing to slowly build up if necessary. I haven't witnessed any problems with production in the acidic bed, and may be a little skeptical about the test results from the limited sample in the first place. So, just like a swimming pool, going to chum the beds and not go for a major dump. The weather is looking to break tomorrow (whew!!!) and brief cooler temps; which will allow me to get out there and get some things done. It has been hot, sticky, and buggy - not a recipe for manual labor tasks. Last edited by My Foot Smells; September 1, 2016 at 09:27 AM. |
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September 1, 2016 | #73 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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And let me add if you need an organic source of any element you can usually find it. Or you can use a mix of both. I have found that synthetic ferts tend to fix things quickly but will not last as long in your soil. Organic additions take a bit longer to work but tend to work for longer. I use both in my garden depending on what i need to fix and what my goal is.
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September 2, 2016 | #74 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 637
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zeroma |
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