Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 9, 2020 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX Zone 8B
Posts: 118
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Support Options for Cherry Toms.
Hi All. I recently switched from having three EarthTainers to two 4'x4' raised beds. In each corner of each bed I have planted various types of cherry tomatoes (with 2 currant tomatoes). And because of the long growing season here in South Texas, these could get really tall/huge.
I want to know a good way to support these plants. I have read where people stake their plants, but then they usually prune to only 1 main stem. Is this a good method for cherry tomatoes? Or should cherry tomatoes be allowed to have multiple stems? Is there a generally accepted method for growing Cherry Tomatoes? Should multiple stems with cages be advised? Single stems with stakes? Something else? There is about 3 feet between the tomatoes (with basil planted in-between). For support in the past, I have used the largest store-bought conical cages I could find, and have zip-tied another one, upside-down, to the top the one in the ground. This worked until high winds would push the whole structures over... Thanks for any advise from you smart, experienced folks! -Lyle |
March 9, 2020 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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I use Hortonova trellis outside, hanging strings in the hoophouse. But I think if I had the 4X4 beds you describe, I'd build square cages from cattle panels.
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"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now blue-green meat, THAT'S bad for you!" -- Tommy Smothers |
March 9, 2020 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 4,832
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If I am reading your post correctly, you have 2 4 foot by 4 foot beds and you have planted several cheery tomatoes and some currant tomato plants in each?
How many plants did you put in each bed and what went with what? I am asking, because I am thinking your beds are going to be buried in those plants. I've yet to have cherry types stay smaller for me, and the currant bushes are just goofy big and wide, at least for me. You may never find your basil in that. As to your question, I have not taken anything off my cherries normally, unless there is a problem with that branch or stem. I use sturdy cages anchored to a T post for all my tomatoes. Currants have always turned into the sort of "the tomato bush that ate Chicago" sort of thing. Huge, thick and unwieldy with a gazillion tiny tomatoes.
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I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing. Last edited by imp; March 9, 2020 at 05:48 PM. |
March 9, 2020 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Suburban Washington, DC (Zone 7A)
Posts: 347
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Quote:
EDIT: Here are the stakes I use, though I got them from HD. Last edited by KathyDC; March 9, 2020 at 06:53 PM. |
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March 9, 2020 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX Zone 8B
Posts: 118
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Here is a box with currant tomatoes (Candyland) in two corners, a cherry tomato (Sun Sugar) in another, and a larger non-cherry indeterminate (Chef's Choice Orange) in the last corner. There are two pepper plants and a basil planted between the tomatoes along the sides. I want aware that currants can get so huge...
Last edited by lapk78; March 9, 2020 at 06:47 PM. |
March 9, 2020 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX Zone 8B
Posts: 118
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This is the other box, with a cherry Tom at each corner (2 Sun Sugars, 2 Sun Gold), and a couple of basil plants in-between.
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March 9, 2020 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX Zone 8B
Posts: 118
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That's a good thought. Have you used this method for cherry toms? If so, do you prune them to reduce the number of their stems? How about non-cherries? I'd like to avoid too much foliage in a cage to help with air flow? That's why I was thinking of staking... But at the same time, they're nearly all cherries and I don't know if pruning to 1 (or 2) stems is advisable for cherries.
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March 9, 2020 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Suburban Washington, DC (Zone 7A)
Posts: 347
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Quote:
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March 9, 2020 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Suburban Washington, DC (Zone 7A)
Posts: 347
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I should say, this year I'm experimenting with some new cages, so we'll see how they do. These are what I got.
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March 9, 2020 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 148
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I use 7' t posts : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...77EB/205960894
stake them down 1 foot- they won't go anywhere I also use the biggest cages from home depot, and flip the upper cage w/ zip ties, then zip tie em to the posts. Not sure about pruning cherries toms0 guess I will see about it this year for the principe gorgese |
March 9, 2020 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 4,832
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Okay, the pictures are great. The tomatoes will shade out your basil after they get going and growing. I myself do not usually take cherries to 1 or 2 stems, but I do clean off the lower foliage up to about a foot, I guess, from the ground after the tomato plants get bigger.
I have in the past, taken manual hedge clippers and cut back currants when the plant got too crazy big, and I think it liked it as it just seemed to jump back with a new burst of growth!!
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I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing. |
March 9, 2020 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX Zone 8B
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Oh wow! I'm beginning to question just how much space this currant is going to need! And I've got TWO in this bed WITH two other indeterminates... I didn't realize how big a currant could get. It almost sounds like one would want an entire 4'x4' bed to itself... My main goal is getting plenty of Sun Sugars... They're fantastic and this is the first time I've found them in the past three years. |
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March 10, 2020 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Steens, MS 8a
Posts: 410
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I would suggest using a concrete wire cage 5 ft X 22" across. A cherry plant will over-top it pretty quickly, but just let it drape down over the sides. I've done this with full size tomatoes. One T-post should keep it stable.
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~Jon~ Downheah, Mississippi |
March 10, 2020 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Cattle panel arches work great for cherry tomatoes. I tie mine every few feet till they reach the top, then they grow back down the other side w/o any effort. That said Farmer Shawn's system is the best I've seen.
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March 10, 2020 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,001
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Yet another idea to consider is like what I've done in the past with good success. Pound a tall t-post near each corner of your 4x4 block and tie horizontal loops of baling twine, about every 8"-12" to the top. As the plants grow, just clip them to the twine, using clips, a Max Tapener tool, or just pantyhose ties. This is an inexpensive solution, and has the benefit of allowing easy pruning as needed, and easy harvesting in one plane. Plus, it allows good airflow. When my cherries reach the top, I just let them grow back down. I also have to say that currents, like other categories of fruits, don't all grow the same. Some grow big and rampantly, while some are quite compact. I don't know about what you've got, but you should be able to find out.
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"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now blue-green meat, THAT'S bad for you!" -- Tommy Smothers |
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