A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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June 2, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: WV
Posts: 14
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Building a healthy organic soil
The task of building an organic soil is an art form. It can be a stick figure drawing, or you can go Monet with it.
Building soils for NPK values is one thing, but it is only part of what makes a plant healthy. A balance of proper hormones, fatty acids, slow/fast decaying materials, and fluffiness can really juice up your mix. I break the necessities (IMO) up into several categories. Food, minerals, microbe mix, aeration. Food stuffs are things like- bone meal blood meal all purpose organic ferts rock phosphate alfalfa mineral sources are things like- diatomaceous earth pool sand gypsum green sand kelp lime azomite rock dusts shredded coconut flax or other seed meals microbe mixes are things like- composted peat moss compost (diy or store bought) earthworm castings animal manures leaf mold mushroom compost aeration items can be- coco coir vermiculite rice or other grain hulls perlite pumice chunky diatomaceous earth per 25 gallon tote- 5 bricks eco earth brand coco (12-13 gallons) 1.5 cu ft compost (bagged variety) 1/2 gallon fine vermiculite 3 cups kelp meal 3 cups bone meal 2 cups alfalfa meal 2 cups espoma bio tone starter plus 2 cups espoma garden tone 2 cups espoma plant tone 2 cups greensand 2 cups rock phosphate 2 cups composted peat moss 2 cups diatomaceous earth 2 cups diatomaceous earth pool sand 1/2 cup gypsum 1/2 cup espoma tomato tone 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut 1/2 cup flax seed meal the coir was hydrated with tap water (135 ppm, tested with hannah 9813-6) then allowed to sit in the rain and be flushed of all excess salts. after a week exposed to the elements the coir began to turn black and show some evidence of composting/bacterial breakdown. when bacterial decomposition had begun, additives were mixed in and allowed to sit for a week before transplanting. this mixture is tailored around a high CEC (cation exchange capacity), air filled porosity, bacterial diversity, a large amount of ingredients with auxins/cytokinenins/gibberlins in addition to npk values, and a balance of short/long breakdown materials. I am going to dump the totes at the end of the season and add back more alfalfa, kelp, coconut meat, and flax before it composts over the winter. i brew compost teas as well, my recipe is (per 13 gallons)- 1 cup compost 1 cup alfalfa 1 cup kelp 1/3 cup blackstrap molasses 3 mL liquid humic additive i use a long sock to hold the dry tea ingredients, and before i begin brewing, i submerge the sock and squeeze it several times to moisten the ingredients and get the microscopic particulate into the water to be colonized by bacteria. this tea is watered down 1:3, so a batch makes a little over 50 gallons. after brewing, the once dry tea ingredients are used as top dressing for the plants. here you can see the mychorrhizal fungi colonizing the soil. 20130520_152701.jpg a basil plant's root ball during transplant 20130426_145717.jpg a couple tomatoes when they got transplanted from two gallon containers into 18 gallon totes (2 weeks ago) 20130528_194213.jpg 20130528_194033.jpg same basil plant, 3 weeks later 20130528_193835.jpg |
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