Useful technique???

[TZ-OH6]

This method might be useful to people trying to cut time off the first step in stabilizing crosses, namely getting F2 seed without a one year turn around, when you don't care what the traits of the F1 plant are. I'm growing two dozen F1 plants in 4" pots under lights on a desk in a spare bedroom. Seeds were started first week of January and the plants are just now coming into bud (about six weeks after sprouting). The plants are 8"-10" tall, and although they have one dwarf parent they are not dwarf plants. Tall seedlings were choosen from dense plantings. Leaf shape and growth are different than other others from same seed.

I'm trying to get F2 seed from some Lime Green Salad x mystery black tomato bee pollinated crosses in time for grow out next summer, so I'm shooting for a single fruit on a stunted plant.

The plants are grown next to a south windowsil under three massive 105 watt compact fluorescents. The plants are surrounded by reflectors, but the reflector next to the window is removed during the day time so that the plants get some direct sun. The fluorescents keep the temps low but the light high (the room themostat is at 65). I have the lights on for an extended period (up to 20 hours a day). I've fertilized with bloom booster high phosphorus, and also a high potassium fertilizer, and they got some epsom salts. The potting mix was poor in nutrients and the plants developed nutrient deficiencies before I broke down and fertilized.

These plants also have suckers forming on 3 or four of the lower leaf axils... seems odd to me at such a young age/small size.


It looks like I just might get my fruits/seeds in time for summer planting and get some F2 selections this year. Not bad with just a desktop in a spare bedroom.