What would be too much

[Got Worms?]

Originally Posted by nnjjohn

yes, but what test do you use to read such PH range?.. I still have those test color capsules but it really is unreliable as far as I can tell trying to match color charts without specific ranges you indicated here is not possible without another (better) PH tester,, ty all once again,, oh btw, think the vinegar worked for now,, am I suppose to add more after a few weeks or will the plants tell me?

If you used the sulfur, then don't make any more adjustments, John. Not until you test the soil again in the fall. It takes time, and there is no way to know the full results of the additions you've made 'till then. Be patient, enjoy, relax!

Even if you only use vinegar; if you over shoot, and wind up with too acid a soil, it will be harder to correct, as you live and garden in an area (the NorthEast) that receives acid rain, and with each rain your soil becomes a little more acid, until it reaches the natural PH of the area, (mine is 5.5) (yours' will be similar) hence my reference to being east of the lime line.

If you want to see what your natural PH is, you could test a spot that was never subjected to fertilizer, PH adjustments, or road salts. This type of testing you can do with a cheap electronic PH tester (It's not your garden and doesn't have to be exact.) This is what your soil will revert to, eventually, if you do nothing to it at all. Granted it will take a long time, but still, it will give you an idea of where your garden soil would be headed without any adjustments

While I'm on the subject of acid rain, and the division (lime line) of east and west. (And, don't ask me for my information source/s; some I learned in school, and some in the 70's, so there's no way I can remember them after all this time, (I'm 68) although I will try to find an acid rain map and add it to this post.

Acid rain is caused by sulfur dioxide being emitted from the burning of fossil fuels by manufactures, the largest concentration being centrally located near the Great Lakes, and down along the Mississippi. Since the prevailing winds are from west to east (think jet stream) the sulfur dioxide is carried high on those winds and is precipitated as acid rain onto our beautiful eastern and more so our, northeastern gardens.

One more cup of coffee and then I'll try to get back on track.

John, gardeners in the northeast try to stay away from acidifiers unless they are trying to grow Hydrangeas, Blueberries, Rhododendron or other acid loving plants. You've gotten into this trouble because you tried to sweeten (raise the ph) of the soil without waiting long enough to check the soil before making each adjustment. More is not always better. It takes 6 months to a year to really know what PH your soil will be and which way it's going after you make an adjustment. There's no way around this. So, when you make an adjustment, you just have to wait until the sulfur or lime finishes working.

Unless you're intent on going back to the way you did it before? Then if you overshoot (even with using vinegar) your soil PH may not come back up again so easily; remember your calcium level is already high ...you'll need to find something other than lime to use, least you raise your calcium level even higher. Most additions usually have more than one result on the soil. Lime adds calcium, wood ash adds calcium, potassium and magnesium. You would need to find something to raise the PH without causing a toxic level of other elements.
Too much coffee. I need to ...

P.S. You don't test for PH range; you test for PH and control where in, and for how long your PH stays within that range. You adjust (change) the range according to what you're planing to grow. 6.3 - 6.7 is a range that the most garden veggies have all the nutrients that are needed by them, available to them. Blueberries, etc. like a more acid range.