Is this little thing really what's destroyed my gardens?

z_willus_d · July 12, 2013

Lyn, I have not. I might look into the county as another potential resource for testing.

In the meantime, Ivan has been in contact with me through PM and has suggested a little experiment to try and get a jump on plans for next season. The idea is to basically run a side-by-side test of his protocol for handling V/F by planting some fall plants in an area that has been afflicted. So, I would remove the dying/grafted plants I have in a section of one of my beds, clear out as much root debris from the soil as possible, and then plant a couple plants side by side and see whether the suppression protocol works as compared to a control group.

So here's the experimental steps as I understand them. Ivan, please correct where I got it wrong.

Prepare an area in an afflicted bed, removing the dying plants from this summer season and as much root matter as possible.
Start some tomato seedlings indoors to be put out in 3 weeks or so.
In the prepared area, till in a good amount (say 1lb per square foot area) of raw, fresh rabbit manure. Till meaning mix the manure with the soil down to 2' deep. Question, should the rabbit manure be composted, or is it important that it be fresh and uncomposted?
Add mulch on top of the tilled soil. Based on Ivan's original post, I'm not very clear on this. Should I added black plastic mulch with holes? Some foil reflective mulch with holes. Forgo the plastic/foil mulch and lay down several inches of straw? Or both? Please clarify Ivan.
5-6 days before planting the seedlings, make a mix of 1% copper ( oxychloride or oxysulfate ) + 0.25% mankozeb. Leave it in the garage for 12-24h, stirring it a few times during that period. 3-4 days before plant-out, drench the solution into the plant holes prepared for planting and surrounding area, approx. 10l of solution per 4 holes. Only on the experimental slots, not the control. I'm not sure yet where to get the oxychloride or oxysulfate -- open to suggestions.
Mix up a thick slurry of Worm castings, beneficial bacteria product (what specific strains? How much?) and water. When the seedlings are ready to plant out, take the experimental group and dip their root ball into this slurry to cover it thick. Also put some of the mixture in the planting hole before planting in it. Also, when removing the lower stems to deep plant these non-grafted, experimental group seedlings, cover the wounds with a peace of paper wrapped around the stem that will be buried and slosh some of the slurry down the stem between it and the paper.
(Optional) Now that the plants are in, mix fosetyl aluminium + propamocarb ( Previcur energy ) 6ml of substance in 2l of water, use 0.2l of solution per a plant. This should be applied first at one day after planting, and a 2nd time after 10 days.
Vermicast ( mild ) + beneficial bacteria tea, every 7-10 days on the experimental group (not control). I'm not so sure about this step. Are we talking about the same step as in step #6 above to make a slurry and top dress the plants? Are we talking about an AACT [tea] made with Vermicast (worm-casting) and beneficial bacteria? If so, is it a soil drench or foliage spray application? Ivan please comment to clarify this step. Also again, what specific strains do you recommend. I need to find them somewhere, since right now I only have the products: Great White, Mycogrow Soluble, BiotaMax, and Actinovate, all of which have one thing or another that you do not want (Mycos, Trich, streptomycetes, etc.).

I guess after steps 1-8, I sit back and wait to see what happens to my control and experimental groups.

Looking forward to a response to my questions and confirmation of procedure from Ivan.

Thanks,
Naysen

July 12, 2013	#11
z_willus_d Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,313	Lyn, I have not. I might look into the county as another potential resource for testing. In the meantime, Ivan has been in contact with me through PM and has suggested a little experiment to try and get a jump on plans for next season. The idea is to basically run a side-by-side test of his protocol for handling V/F by planting some fall plants in an area that has been afflicted. So, I would remove the dying/grafted plants I have in a section of one of my beds, clear out as much root debris from the soil as possible, and then plant a couple plants side by side and see whether the suppression protocol works as compared to a control group. So here's the experimental steps as I understand them. Ivan, please correct where I got it wrong. Prepare an area in an afflicted bed, removing the dying plants from this summer season and as much root matter as possible. Start some tomato seedlings indoors to be put out in 3 weeks or so. In the prepared area, till in a good amount (say 1lb per square foot area) of raw, fresh rabbit manure. Till meaning mix the manure with the soil down to 2' deep. Question, should the rabbit manure be composted, or is it important that it be fresh and uncomposted? Add mulch on top of the tilled soil. Based on Ivan's original post, I'm not very clear on this. Should I added black plastic mulch with holes? Some foil reflective mulch with holes. Forgo the plastic/foil mulch and lay down several inches of straw? Or both? Please clarify Ivan. 5-6 days before planting the seedlings, make a mix of 1% copper ( oxychloride or oxysulfate ) + 0.25% mankozeb. Leave it in the garage for 12-24h, stirring it a few times during that period. 3-4 days before plant-out, drench the solution into the plant holes prepared for planting and surrounding area, approx. 10l of solution per 4 holes. Only on the experimental slots, not the control. I'm not sure yet where to get the oxychloride or oxysulfate -- open to suggestions. Mix up a thick slurry of Worm castings, beneficial bacteria product (what specific strains? How much?) and water. When the seedlings are ready to plant out, take the experimental group and dip their root ball into this slurry to cover it thick. Also put some of the mixture in the planting hole before planting in it. Also, when removing the lower stems to deep plant these non-grafted, experimental group seedlings, cover the wounds with a peace of paper wrapped around the stem that will be buried and slosh some of the slurry down the stem between it and the paper. (Optional) Now that the plants are in, mix fosetyl aluminium + propamocarb ( Previcur energy ) 6ml of substance in 2l of water, use 0.2l of solution per a plant. This should be applied first at one day after planting, and a 2nd time after 10 days. Vermicast ( mild ) + beneficial bacteria tea, every 7-10 days on the experimental group (not control). I'm not so sure about this step. Are we talking about the same step as in step #6 above to make a slurry and top dress the plants? Are we talking about an AACT [tea] made with Vermicast (worm-casting) and beneficial bacteria? If so, is it a soil drench or foliage spray application? Ivan please comment to clarify this step. Also again, what specific strains do you recommend. I need to find them somewhere, since right now I only have the products: Great White, Mycogrow Soluble, BiotaMax, and Actinovate, all of which have one thing or another that you do not want (Mycos, Trich, streptomycetes, etc.). I guess after steps 1-8, I sit back and wait to see what happens to my control and experimental groups. Looking forward to a response to my questions and confirmation of procedure from Ivan. Thanks, Naysen