No Roots Tomato Grafting Video

[b54red]

Originally Posted by Delerium

Size doesn't really matter as long as the graft union is perfect and fits the clips perfectly. I've done grafts at almost any stage as long as its thick enough to fit the clip. Look at the tote in the bottom all tiny plants that took just fine.

You are right about a perfect fit with the clips but that is not always possible. I use 3 different clip sizes and sometimes can't find the right fit. If the clip is too tight I sometimes get that rot from the clip squeezing the stem too much; but if the clip is too loose and the plant tilts in the least the graft union will sometimes be too loose to heal. When I run into these situations I have found myself leaning towards too tight as opposed to too loose.

I'm still trying to figure out what is the best length of time to leave my totes closed before I start leaving the lid partially open. In the past when I was using potting soil I couldn't leave them closed for even 3 days without rot starting on the stems and if I left them closed longer the leaves would also get rot. Now that I am using the Optisorb in my cups and having far less of the rot problem I am going to try leaving one closed for a full 4 1/2 days. I just cracked it open and left it and will open it further later in the day if I don't see much wilting. I'm hoping by leaving them closed up for 4 1/2 days I will reduce my lose from wilting which can sometimes be devastating.

I now have far more grafts done than I need so anything I do now is just for experimenting and improving my technique. I am even thinking of trying some grafts and not closing them up at all with some of my left over seedlings just to see if any of them survive. I think it might be wise when trying this to give them some misting and maybe some bottom watering.

I had to bring my grafts which were out hardening off back inside for a few days due to some really high March winds that started blowing late yesterday. It was blowing so hard that a couple of the grafts broke even with the clips still on them and even one of my stems near the soil line snapped. I know it is good to let them have some wind for toughening up purposes but that was ridiculous. I have a couple nearly large enough to plant and I don't see losing them before I can even get them in the ground.

I find UltraSorb far easier for seed starting for a couple of reasons. It is easier to control the planting depth with UltraSorb. It is far easier to transplant or pot up if you want the roots undisturbed which is critical with things like cucumbers or spinach. UltraSorb doesn't require bottom watering as often because the smaller granules don't dry out quite as fast. I also like it better for starting cuttings because it is easier to poke a hole for the cutting to be inserted into.

I find the Optisorb far superior for holding the grafts during the healing process because it doesn't hold as much water so you have less problems with rot. I have also found that I have far fewer bad grafts caused by too much water wicking up through the rootstock and pushing the scion away. The only downside I see of using Optisorb is the looser large granules don't always support the stem as well so I sometimes have to brace them with a skewer.

Bill