Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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April 19, 2018 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
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IMO the key to minimize transplant stress is (a) really good roots on em, and (b) warm soil.
I do think you can go too far with letting the plants get rootbound by being in a small pot too long, but OTOH I think it's optimal to transplant when the roots are just filling the container, so the root ball comes out holding the soil. Many times I've just planted that "beer cup shaped" root ball with no interference, and the plants hardly blinked at being transplanted - if the soil was not cold. Did not affect future root growth either as by the end of season my containers are chock full of roots. The plants I've seen suffer badly from transplant stress were either moved too early - before they had filled the cell or pot - or for some other reason had not developed a good root system by planting time, so the soil fell off them when the pot was removed. That stage of root development can be really stressed and I think some that we put in at the farm didn't even make it. I don't usually see any wilting or other sign of stress if the roots are full and strong. With the methods I normally use, the beer cups are nicely rooted in 6 weeks which is also when most plants reach leaf seven and start making flower buds. Sometimes don't get planted until 8 weeks, but I do think 6 is better if possible. If the plant is ready to flower and set fruit, you want the nutrients to be available for that, and best achieved in the permanent spot.. So there's a middle ground for the best timing.. but has nothing to do with removing buds.. JMO |
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