EarthTainer Self-supporting Tomato Cage System - Quick Instructions

[rnewste]

Here is a brief overview of the EarthTainer self-supporting cage system. I will do a .pdf document in a few weeks when I have all 25 'Tainers loaded up with tomato plants.

It is essential to use the Walmart 54" heavy duty cages ($5.32). They are much stronger than the Home Depot or Lowes cages, and strength is all important for the system to function properly.

Step 1: Invert two cages and align the legs at the first hoopset in a straight row. Use a 1/8" wire rope clip to secure the cages together at hoopset #3. Note: hoopset #4 will overlap slightly. See photo:



Flip the 2 connected cages upright (carefully) and use tie wraps to secure hoopsets #4 together:



Next, spread out a black trash bag, lift the cage and center the legs on it:



Pull up on the trash bag through each leg and slide the bag up to hoopset #1.

Invert the cage again, and place the cut out cover rim over the legs. (Make sure the cover is facing in the correct direction):



Then flare out the legs as shown above.

Next, use a Sharpie marker to put a mark 1" from the end of each leg. Then attach 1/8" wire rope clips to each of the 8 legs.



Then place 3/8" by 1.5" fender washers over each wire rope clip:



The cage system is now ready for the aeration bench. It is critical to use a 5/32" drill to drill the mounting holes in the 8 places on the aeration bench as shown. This is the strongest structural part of the aeration bench, to support the weight of the tomato plants.



Place the aeration bench (upside down) on the tomato cage legs (note: this is an older photo where I had combined the center legs. I now have each leg "vertical" in its own drill hole)



You will need to use a bit of force to "punch" the leg through each 5/32 drilled hole. Hint: when drilling the holes, wiggle the drill a bit to make a slightly enlarged hole. You will hear a "pop" when each leg is inserted. This is important, as when you are finished and flip the system back over to install into the 31 gallon container, the friction gripping on each leg holds the aeration bench and cages together. Each leg will protrude 1" into the underside of the aeration bench:



Again, no underside clamps are necessary, as the guy-wire tether will hold the tomato cages in a rigid position upon final assembly.

Flip the aeration bench / tomato cage assembly back over and it is ready to install into the container.





Next, drill 1/4" holes on both sides of the 'Tainer in the middle of the "Rubbermaid" name (middle of the "e" letter. Install 1/4" by 1" eye-bolts and washers. (You may find it easier to do this step before placing the tomato cage and aeration bench into the container). Using a smaller 1/16" wire rope clip, secure a 7' section of 1/16" galvanized wire through one eye-bolt, and run the free end through the (loosened) wire rope clip that is holding the cages together at hoopset #3:





Fasten the end through the eye-bolt on the opposite side of the container and tension the wire slightly. Think of the tomato cage like a ship's mast, with the guy-wires as Stays fastening the mast "port" and "starboard" in nautical terms. This will keep the cage system rigid (upright) as it loads up with tomatoes during the growing season.

So that's about it. Enjoy, and feel free to add your ideas and improvements.



Ray

[dcarch]

It's nice to see things which are made in the USA

Very clear step-by-step instructions of a great design.

dcarch

[rnewste]

dcarch,

Thanks for the comments.


Forgot to mention that it takes approximately 30 minutes to assemble the cage system, mount the aeration bench on it, then install in the 'Tainer with the "port" and "starboard" guy-wire.

It also takes about 30 minutes per 'Tainer to make the initial aeration bench cut, the wicking basket cutout, and drill all of the aeration holes. I "pancake" 3 of the 6" high raw aeration benches together and make the wicking basket cutout and drill all the holes one time, through all 3 together. Saves a lot of time and effort.



Now on to Phase 4, the AWS installation....stay tuned.

Ray

[DennisM]

Ray,
Thanks for the pictures of the eye bolt and the 7 foot section of galvanized wire. I had missed that idea when I put my EarthTainers together. I will go back and complete the assembly correctly. I had devised a more complicated method to stabilize the plants, but your design seems much simpler and will work better.

I had asked an earlier question regarding the ratio of ingredients in the Tomato-tone fertilizer. In your response you asked where I got some of my information. I found the information that led to my question at http://www.selectedplants.com/Fertilizing.htm. I will also attach a picture of my tomato-tone bag which shows a different ratio than the picture that you posted. You had mentioned that Tomato-tone had gone to a 4 lb. bag and kept the 5 lb. price. I found this to be correct. However, when I purchased the fertilizer, the ad read 5 lb. bag so I received an extra 4 lb. bag for free. The people at The Do-It-Best Center were very nice about this.

Thanks again for all of you help.

Dennis

[rnewste]

Hi Dennis,

Yes, the Espoma folks did indeed significantly change the NPK and micros content of Tomato-tone this year.

I had such good success with the "old" formula last year (it far outperformed Fox Farms) that I thought I was done shopping. Fortunately, I have some of the old formula left, and this season I am going to run an "A/B" comparison of the new vs old formulas in a few of the 'Tainers to see which one proves superior.

Regarding the tomato cage system, the photos in this thread are of my Rev 1.0 design. Since then, I have figured out how to secure the cage feet to the aeration bench, then fasten the aeration bench to the outer container with 2 toggle bolts. This Rev 2.0 design makes it easier to slide up the lid and mulch to plant, and clean out. See the current Construction Guide:

http://www.tomatofest.com/pdfs/Earth...tion-Guide.pdf

Ray