Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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November 23, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21
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Newbie...So Many Questions
So as the title says, I'm pretty much the most clueless fella ever when it comes to all things gardening...I grew a few cucumber plants with my mom at our old apartment when I was a little kid, but since then I've lost any knowledge or skill I once had. Hopefully ya'll will go easy on me, and forgive any utterly foolish questions that I might have.
Some of my questions are better suited for other sections of the forum (I think) so I'll start with one of the basics. I live in Maryland, about 20 minutes south of Baltimore. I plan on a smallish container garden but am having some trouble making sense of some of the info I've found. First of all, the only spot I have for this garden is on a porch on the Northwest corner of our house. I haven't measured exactly how much sun it gets in spring/summer, but I think it'd be alright. I plan to have two tomato plants, a row of beets, a row of cukes, and a few pea plants. Am I setting myself up for failure trying to do all this on from what I can tell is a sub-optimal planting area? Also, I can't seem to find a straight answer about hardiness zones. I found one source that told me it was 6b, but another told me different. What gives? I'm also having trouble finding info discussing exactly what to do with the hardiness zone info. I think that's it for my "general" questions - hopefully I stayed more or less on-topic for this area, but if not please accept my apologies and feel free to zap this post! Thanks so much! |
November 23, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 105
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Hello. I think you will find gardening frustrating at times but ultimately very fun and rewarding.
The concept of hardiness zones really isn't useful for vegetable gardening. A hardiness zone number tells you what types of plants will survive the winter in your area. This is useful info for perennials, shrubs, trees, etc.. but not so much for cucumbers and such. What you need to find out is when you should plant seeds or transplants in your area. You can get this info from your county extension office. I google Maryland's extension and found this site: http://www.hgic.umd.edu/_media/docum..._dates_pfv.pdf |
November 23, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lilburn GA
Posts: 278
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PM contianer Ted for help on your growing in contianers Bill
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November 24, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21
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Amber - I'm sure it will be, but I'm willing to take the good with the bad. Of course that attitude might change once I start experiencing some of the bad, but for now, I'm thinking positive.
Thanks for clarifing the hardiness zone issue - that's pretty much what I had figured, since all the info I could find regarding hardiness zones always mentioned trees and such and never veggies, but hearing it from another source is always a good thing. Brog - I'll do that, thanks! |
November 24, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 538
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Four years ago when I was clueless I started out -- worriedly -- with a couple of herbs and some daisies. The clues will come! especially if you hang out here or anywhere there are experienced gardeners willing to offer their insights.
Keep us posted on your progress. Christine |
November 24, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21
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Christine - I'm sure I'll make some impressive mistakes. Good thing I've (mostly) gotten to the point in my life where I treat mistakes as learning experiences, rather than cause for reminding myself what a dummy I can be!
I'll do my best to document my methods and progress. |
November 24, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 581
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As stated above, Hardiness zones basically merely hint at what plants will survive the winters. Most of MD is in zone 6, but most of the northern edge falls into Z7. The further south of Baltimore you go, the milder it gets (not because you are going south, but because you are getting closer to the maritime climate created by the Chesapeake Bay).
If you are in Anne Arundel County, try to find some Anne Arundel Melons. They are an heirloom from there, and as nice a melon as can be found. Pure seeds are hard to find, but worth growing. Good luck with the garden. |
November 24, 2010 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 21
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I'm actually in Howard County, but close enough. I dunno if I'll experiement with melons quite yet - I would love to, but I have a feeling I've bitten off more than I can chew already. Will add 'em to my list though!
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November 26, 2010 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Figure that a 5 gallon bucket is about 1/10th of the root space
that a tomato plant would use in the ground (3'x3'x3' root volume). So watering is going to be a daily thing in hot weather, maybe twice a day if gets up into the 90s F. If they are sitting on the ground, you can cut the bottoms out, but if they are sitting on a patio or deck, that does not help. You probably want a moisture meter, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-18.../dp/B001B2WALI (Should be under $10 at your nearest store with a garden department.) The more compact the plant, the better your chances. (I would not expect a lot of success from Cherokee Purple in a 5-gallon bucket. I bet more than half of the fruit end up with BER.) Plants that have stayed compact for me: Russian Red Lime Green Salad Sophie's Choice Demidov Some that I have not grown that others would recommend: Extreme Bush New Big Dwarf You can look up descriptions for most of these here: http://tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/C...o_Variety_List A page on dwarf varieties: http://tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/D...atoes_by_Color
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