New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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August 21, 2006 | #16 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b)
Posts: 796
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Quote:
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...that and maybe some new light fixtures. |
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August 21, 2006 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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August 21, 2006 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b)
Posts: 796
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Hmm... looks like good stuff. Unfortunately, I have yet to see it in my area
I will look around though, and see if I can locate a place that carries it here in the Phoenix area. Thanks
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I could sail by on the winds of silence, and maybe they won't notice... but this time I think it would be better if I swim.. |
August 22, 2006 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Z8b, Texas
Posts: 657
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It's not how many seeds you sow. Nor how many plants you transplant. It's about how many of them can survive your treatment of them. |
August 22, 2006 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Polar_Lace,
I can read about wetting agents until I'm blue in the face, but it seems no websites actually SELL the stuff! Maybe it's not to be sold to consumers in full strength?
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August 22, 2006 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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I'm assuming these folks sell their product
either directly or through distributors: http://www.yates.com.au/commercial/p...moisturaid.asp http://www.ohp.com/Products/suffusion_g.php PV |
August 22, 2006 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b)
Posts: 796
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Well, I've checked my area thoroughly.. done web searches, etc...
..and from what I can tell, neither Pro-Mix NOR Fafard is available in Arizona All I can say is.. What the (omitted)!!! So, it looks like all I can do for now is get some peat, and some other good stuff, and make my own... which I have, more or less, just in smaller quantity.
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I could sail by on the winds of silence, and maybe they won't notice... but this time I think it would be better if I swim.. |
August 24, 2006 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: UK.
Posts: 960
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I find that one of the best ways to stop seedling problems such as damping off etc, is to sprinkle about a eighth of an inch layer of course gritty sand onto the top of the sowing compost, this gives the top layer a bit of drainage around the fist bit of stem of the seedlings and stops a damp residue from forming on the surface, it also helps a bit to drag off any stuck seed husks that often seem to happen, but the main thing to prevent any seedling problems is plenty of free circulating air round them- this is by far the best thing for desease prevention. :wink:
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August 24, 2006 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 2,984
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I think you're onto something there. Every single seedling of mine that damped off this spring was in a smaller (8 to 12 ounce) styrofoam cup ... none of the other seedlings in the 4" square plastic containers or larger (16-ounce) styrofoam cups damped off. And I only noticed mildew-like growth on top of the soil in the smaller cups as well. Maybe the smaller styrofoam cups were generating more condensation at the surface of the starting mix and containing it in such a way as to restrict air circulation at the surface. All the damping off occured at a rather advanced stage too ... like after the second sets of true leaves ... so it may have been crowded conditions that discouraged air circulation as well. But then ... hmmmmm |
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August 25, 2006 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: UK.
Posts: 960
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Yes- it works on a a simular principle to opening up greenhouse air vents with a free flow of air over the plants and seedlings,
With a greenhouse- if you leave it closed up with no air flow, its not long before one starts to see leaf spotting and mould setting in. But with newly sprouted seedlings with a good air flow round them- they usualy grow and flourish no probs,even retaining their seed leaves as fresh and green until over a foot high or more in some cases. I have even known some growers train the air flow from a low powered fan-accross their seedling trays from about 6-8 foot away to keep the air circulating like a gentle breeze, and they very rarely get problems with damping off and the like. Another thing that people tend to do wrong- is lots of them (including me ) cover their seed starting trays in polythene or saren wrap, which is fine- to encourage initial germination, but you must remove it straight away as soon as its noticed the seeds are just beginning to sprout, otherwise all sorts of damp problems will occur, usualy the seedlings then continue to grow and lift up their heads and hopefully throw out their first seed leaves. Once you have got the seed leaves showing- that is the time to increase the air flow if possible. I personaly- never touch them at all after that for about ten days- until the first true leaves are showing and the second pair are just peeking through at the tip, I can then decide when to start transplanting them into the next stage pot or whatever. A good air flow over the seedlings also seems to encourage slightly stronger and better stems- with them waving gently in an air current-and sort of stiffens them up a bit, whereas young plants kept in warm humid conditions tend to grow a softer more floppy stems and leaves- often leading to breakages and snapping off of stems at the time of transplanting them outside. |
August 31, 2006 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b)
Posts: 796
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Well, I've changed a few things when doing my second batch of seeds...
1 - Different seed-starting mix. I started with some heat-sterilized Walmart mix.. Baked it in the oven at 180 degrees for about 10 minutes.. then added it to pure peat at a ratio of about 3 parts peat to 1 part wally mix. nice and dry of course, so I wetted it with some 1/8 strength MG solution so it was just barely damp. I then placed seeds into it and sprayed them with a little water and then covered them about 1 millimeter deep. 2 - I had started with just ONE shop lamp setup in my little seedling closet using 2 Phillips cool-white plus bulbs.. old ones at that. I ADDED a second new shop light setup and replaced all bulbs. I now use 1 Phillips Cool-white plus and 1 Phillips Daylight Deluxe bulb in each. What a difference in color temp! Brighter and MUCH better! 3 - Taking advice from Suze, I watered all my existing seedlings with a dilute mixture of hydrogen peroxide (1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide to 12 parts water). I also mixed in just a tiny bit (about 1/10th dose) of MG and the tiniest bit of epsom salt. The results? The older seedlings have started showing some new life. They are finally showing green in their leaves, as opposed to the horrible yellow look that they were stuck with.. The new seedlings are all green and healthy and growing at a decent pace. I also have had a much better germination rate. Thanks to all who have helped! - Eric
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I could sail by on the winds of silence, and maybe they won't notice... but this time I think it would be better if I swim.. |
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