Remove the planting cups before transplant??

[Lowlander]

I have always CAREFULLY removed the planting cups (you know, the brown degradable ones you buy at HD or lowes etc) when I transplant into the garden. As I look as my Toms, and peppers ( thai chili, ghost, yellow ghost, naga viper, carolina reaper, and choc douglah) under the lights, I see the roots have grown quite readily out of, and around on the sides of the cups.

Would I shock the plants less during transplant if I simply bury the whole cup in a hole with organic compost, or will it not matter that these will be pulled off the plant if I remove the cups?

[Stvrob]

I always pull them out of the container and then wiggle off about 1/4 inch of the soil all around the plant, breaking off or any of the roots that were circling the inside of the container. I don't do it carefully, but with luv. I don't think they are really shocked by the experience, in fact I think they enjoy it.

[BennB]

In the past I have just peeled off the bottom of the peat pot and if it looks like there are a lot of roots and it is root bound, I peel it off and spread the root ball out. If it does not look like it is root bound, I've just stuck it in the ground as is.

If you do open the roots up, thoroughly soak the roots before and water well after you transplant.

[lycomania]

I completely remove those peat pots. Maybe they're fine, maybe not (I have not done a proper test) but I've seen too much mold on those things to want to plant them next to my roots.

[Redbaron]

It depends on how large the root ball has gotten.If the root ball is large, remove the peat, otherwise no need.

The reason is time. The pot will deteriorate once in the ground, but not instantly. If the roots are already getting crowded, better to free them up so they don't need to wait. But if they are not crowded, the peat will deteriorate in time.

[Lowlander]

OK, so lets say the root ball is fairy large and bound. Would I spread them out to a degree or would I leave them in the shape as they come from the pot?

thanks so far.

[BennB]

I'm sure there are pros and cons to both methods. It would be good to hear from one of the pros on the forum who can set us both straight.

So, I don't know if I am doing it the "right" way, but I have been doing this for about 20 years and seem to do OK with it. Here is my approach: if the plant is root bound I always spread the roots out at the bottom of the root ball. My rule of thumb is that of the plant comes out of the pot and no soil sloughs off, it is root bound. If soil falls off the bottom or sides the root ball, I don't spread them.

If it is root bound, I pull apart the roots at the bottom half of the ball to make a tripod with three clumps of new roots pointing out at about 90 degrees from the center. I don't do this for the upper half. I feel I've done it correctly when I can stand the plant up in the new pot or plant pit and it does not fall over.

I potted up a couple dozen plants from 18 oz solo cups into 8X0 pulp pots this afternoon doing this method and, as I said, I've been doing it that way, right or wrong, for 2 decades. If you are going to do this, make sure you saturate the root ball in the old pot about an hour before you transplant, water well afterward, and keep them out of direct sunlight afterwards, if possible, for a couple days. Most of mine are in pots, so it is easy to keep them protected. If I am putting the in the ground I usually transplant in the evening so the plant has some time to adjust before being in full sun.

[amideutch]

I see the roots have grown quite readily out of, and around on the sides of the cups.

Lowlander, anytime you disturb the root structure the plant will react, as to how much can be anybodies guess. I grow my seedlings in CowPots and Dotpots which are Biodegradeable for two reasons. One, to help prevent transplant shock as I do not have to disturb the root structure on plant out and two I dip my plants in a solution containing MycoGrow Soluable (Mycorrhizae/beneficial Bacteria), Actinovate and Biota Max. This will inoculate the roots so as to fight off soilborne disease and the Myco's/Bacteria also increases the plants nutrient uptake.

From your statement above I would plant the plant, cup and roots as is. On occasion I have received a seedling in a plastic pot and with that I just remove the roots that have grown out the drain holes to facilitate removal of the plant from the pot and plant after the dip procedure. Ami

[Stvrob]

I have never found tomatoes to be particularly sensitive to root shock. In my experience it is going to be growing on new roots anyway, so I don't hesitate to remove any that are beginning to circle.

[Worth1]

I at least remove the top portion so it doesnt wick moisture from the soil around the plant.

Other than that I couldnt care less if it is removed.


Worth

[bboomer]

Take them off or leave them on and see how much of the peat pot is still constraining the roots at the end of the season. My experience has been that peat is pretty tough and the damage done to the young roots is worth setting them free.

[ArcherB]

When I used compostable pots, I wasn't sure if I should leave them on or take them off when transplanting. So, I pulled off just one or two of the sides.