No Root Grafting == "Stenting"

[natekurz]

I've seen discussion on this site where some people are having good results with "No Root Grafting". Instead of grafting onto a full plant with roots, one simultaneously grafts a scion and roots a cutting: http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=28583

I recently learned that this technique is properly known as "stenting". It's a combination of the Dutch words for "striking a cutting" (stekken) and "grafting" (enter). While it may be new to tomatoes, apparently it's been used commercially on roses for a few decades.

Here's an article and video describing the practice, as well as some history of it's use: http://www.rooting-hormones.com/stenting.htm

[b54red]

I tried the no root method several times with a little success; but I had more damping off problems with this method than any other. It is probably more the prevalence of the disease in the air here than the method. Delerium has had good results with his own method of no root grafting.

Bill

[natekurz]

Is there a good guide to Delerium's method? I read through a number of threads, but while intriguing they seemed to be mostly peek-a-boo, and the video in the thread I linked is no longer available.

From what I can gather, the main approach discussed here is to cut off the meristem of both the rootstock and the varietal, cut the top off the rootstock meristem, graft the variety on top, and root the combination in DE. High humidity/frequent misting required for the first days until the graft takes.

One modified approach is that instead of misting or tenting, you immerse the graft in water: http://www.tomatoville.com/showpost....2&postcount=32
The goal is to keep the scion alive until the graft takes, and then rooting normally. There is hinting as to a better approach. To me, the obvious next extension would be to start rooting aeroponically or with deep water culture (adding an aquarium bubbler to the water) to take the timing out of the equation.

Are there other details and variations worth knowing? Some people are having success grafting onto leaf petioles. Can these be used for 'stenting' also? Alternatively, can one cut multiple slices from the meristem the rootstock, extending your rootstock supply but grafting the varietal onto each?

--nate

[Delerium]

I was the one who discovered the petiole grafting . I am also the one who started the no roots grafting with tomatoes. It hasn't been done before with tomatoes till i started it but if you want to give credit to the rose researchers that's fine but your welcome to the free information that i have provided to this forum. It hasn't been documented before even by the experts in tomato grafting (this method doesn't work with Eggplants or Peppers even with rooting hormone). All these brilliant university documented tomato grafters couldn't figure it out and they have some serious research on the subject - and you kinda wonder why then don't do Tomato Stenting grafting lol? I think no roots grafting sounds much better.

Been doing it for over a year by the text book and pretty much threw that out the window. I was also the one who hinted Anne to supplying water to the scion. And your welcome to that to. I figured that out by accident because i hated keeping my plants in high humidity which causes all sorts of other problems like foliage fungus problems.

My success rate at grafting is so good now i hardly even worry about failure. It took me a great deal of time to figure out how to graft. Not only single grafts but I've already tested stacking grafts per Annes suggestion and seem to take just fine to (dwarf ---> disease resistant root stock ----> to scion ---> then petiole graft). I've figured out how to graft without Humidity domes - which makes the process so much simpler but because I've come across people on this forum with attitudes who just want me to hand the info as if i owe them my research so I have been silent on my new methods. Now i just watch from the sidelines and snicker.

Lot of the graft failures are caused by the high humidity then leading to dampen off. Luckily for you there is all this new info which makes grafting a piece of cake so good luck to you. I have pretty much moved away from text book grafting its just a waste of time.

[natekurz]

Hi Delirium --

Yes, you are definitely the first that I've heard of that has done this with tomatoes. By the way, is the video from your earlier thread still available to watch somewhere? The link in that thread didn't seem to be working any more.

I think no roots grafting sounds much better.

I do too, but that a search for 'stenting' turns up some research and pages that I hadn't known about. For example, one idea it led to (but that haven't tried) was the idea of laying your stent on it's side as it grows roots, then raising it upright as the roots as the roots develop. Apparently useful with roses. No idea if it's applicable to tomatoes.

I was also the one who hinted Anne to supplying water to the scion.

Indeed! That's why I linked to your explanation. Any chance you've tried the 'aeroponic' or 'deep water' approaches I mentioned? It seems like a natural extension to do the rooting directly in the water, or to use the mist to hydrate the scion.

Not only single grafts but I've already tested stacking grafts per Annes suggestion and seem to take just fine to (dwarf ---> disease resistant root stock ----> to scion ---> then petiole graft).

I thought that was interesting as well. Have you tried doing stacked grafts simultaneously? To my surprise, it works fairly well with apples. One experimenter discovered that he was able to do 6 simultaneous stacked grafts and have them all take: http://turkeysong.wordpress.com/2010...ees-big-roots/
If you can keep the scions hydrated, which it seems like you've figured out, I think it might work just like the 'no-root grafting' does but shave off quite a bit of time.

I've figured out how to graft without Humidity domes - which makes the process so much simpler but because I've come across people on this forum with attitudes who just want me to hand the info as if i owe them my research so I have been silent on my new methods. Now i just watch from the sidelines and snicker.

Not a matter of anything being owed, but I confess that I don't understand the appeal of the indirect hinting. I'm of the "life is short and communication is hard" theory. Even when I try my best to convey information, it's usually hard enough for anyone to figure out what I'm talking about. But to each their own --- I appreciate the information and ideas you provide, regardless of the approach you take.

[Delerium]

Yes you can simultaneously do stack grafts as long as it doesn't fall apart on ya . Please look at thread called Germination machine. Basically all you need to do is keep is the graft points hydrated (ultrasonic mist). You can easily build a setup similar to that but keep the graft points inside the box while leaving the leaves exposed to air thus no foliage fungal problems that comes with humidity domes. You do your graft and have a template where you insert/drop your graft so the graft unions would be as you mentioned in a aeroponic like setup. It would be a pretty easy build.

Indirect hinting is what makes gardening fun. People have mentally gotten lazy and have lost creativity. For me what keeps these type of projects fun is the tinkering and fiddling around with things that are totally new and uncharted territory.

At this stage i think with all the information provided as is.. Many should be able to do multiple grafts very easily. I like to keep some tricks up my sleeve makes life a bit more interesting.

[beeman]

As Requested

[Delerium]

NT........

[natekurz]

(Thanks to both Delerium and Beeman for keeping the thread on topic.)

[Delerium]

It works no question about it. It's the only way i graft large or small plants. Plants with rootballs are harder to work with in the sense you must be careful not to over water. Another big advantage to working with grafts with no roots is that you won't have a huge root mass to work with when your planting. It will be more like a younger seedling being transplanted. If you had a choice between larger or smaller plants I've always went with smaller plants that aren't going to be root bound. No roots grafting balances the time it takes to graft in relation to root growth of the plant.