A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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April 30, 2014 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I'm rather disappointed that nobody has helped you with the math on the fertilizer numbers.
Pounds Per Acre Phosphorus 424 Sulfur 234 Calcium 5604 Magnesium 1253 Potassium 617 Nitrogen 1360 Divide by 43,560 (sq ft per acre) and we get... Pounds Per Square Foot Phosphorus .0097 lbs Sulfur .0054 lbs Calcium .1287 lbs Magnesium .0288 lbs Potassium .0142 lbs Nitrogen .0312 lbs A 4 lb bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer would contain: Phosphorous .4 lbs Potassium .4 lbs Nitrogen .4 lbs So, I'm not seeing this dire problem with your fertilizer numbers. If anything, I think you've got a decent background level but will still need to fertilize. Remember, the main reason people add manure is not for N-P-K but for micronutrients and soil tilth (loosening up the soil). Personally, I've never felt there was such a thing as too much horse, cow, sheep, etc. manure as long as it's composted. Now, if you use the same type of manure year after year, then you can get a salt build up, but that's why you rotate other materials in as they become available. I think your biggest concern might be pH which you can immediately test by buying a pH meter at your local feed store or local nursery. There are measures (some say drastic) you can take to bring the pH down.
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April 30, 2014 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3
Posts: 3,231
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I wish I had some of that manure pile! I had horses for many years and tilled in both finished and dried manure clumps and straw bedding into my hard clay soil. Everything grew well, yes there were weeds, but weeds are everywhere anyway. Since the horses died off, I've had to pay to have rotted cow manure trucked in via big dump truck. This farmer has various long distance semi hauling jobs as well, so is really hard to set up a purchase and delivery time. My pile lasts me about two years for two garden sites, plus I use some in containers as well. I am about out, and not sure I can get a supply before planting time, even though I have almost a month. I try to have a compost pile, but that has nowhere enough compost for my needs. Sure miss the horse manure -- but not the work of keeping horses!
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April 30, 2014 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lebanon, Mo
Posts: 59
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Quote:
You think I need more nitrogen etc? I was told I was over the top on most everything and would probably burn it all up for a couple yrs. We have a large compost pile I've been scared to add to anything. Probably has 500 egg shells, tons of banana peels, assorted fruit skins plus all other kitchen scraps I have used "drastic" measures to lower the PH. Aluminum Sulfate. I'm down to 6.8 average but it may drop lower as I added some sulfur as well. Thank You, I now have hope. |
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April 30, 2014 | #19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
Compost is the same deal. If you just want nutrients, you can scatter 13-13-13 in chemical form. Compost gives you a lot more than that as far as soil looseness, beneficial microbes, and encourages earthworms which are great free labor.
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April 30, 2014 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lebanon, Mo
Posts: 59
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Told by the Ag service where I ordered the soil samples. Told also I'd have tons of growth on some stuff but very little if an fruits like tomatoes.
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April 30, 2014 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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I filled my raised beds with older horse manure one year, 12" deep. Had the best tomato plants that I've ever had. A few aphids from the high nitrogen but tons of tomatoes, too.
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April 30, 2014 | #22 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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May 1, 2014 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lebanon, Mo
Posts: 59
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I used aluminum sulfate which bring it down instantly. I'm not sure if you can use it in an area already planted. Sulfur works too but takes several weeks. Maybe work in some peat moss as it 4.5?
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May 2, 2014 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
That's why I always try and use a good inoculate. Last year I used X-treme and it did good on most things. This year trying MycoGrow on the recommendation of members in this forum. Companion planting Basil will help too.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture Last edited by Redbaron; May 2, 2014 at 05:02 PM. |
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May 3, 2014 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Basil is a pretty heavy feeder. But, I really don't see pure, composted horse manure as a problem.
The only problem I've ever had is when my manure is too fresh. Then, it actually works well in cooler temps to warm the plants but reactivated in the heat to cause issues. By heat, I mean we were having 115 degree days, a real heat wave even for AZ. |
May 3, 2014 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lebanon, Mo
Posts: 59
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My tomato plants are turning white. Too wet or too hot?
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