New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 24, 2016 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Metal halides are way overkill for starting seedlings, too intense and too much heat will burn your seedlings. Not to mention they'll dry out those peat pots quickly. No fertilization doesn't help the situation, a plant can't photosynthesize without the raw materials it needs.
Always use T5's or T8's for seed starting and clones, and they'll save a lot on your electric bill too. |
March 24, 2016 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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March 24, 2016 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7
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Well I started them under t8's but I had to many plants and not enough t8's. I got 5 metal halide ballasts and a case of bulbs for 90 bucks so I couldn't pass it up lol its odd to because it's really only the older tomato plants that are yellowing. Some peppers are a little but even the tomato seedlings that are only 4 inches tall have been under them since they got there fist true sets of leaves and they are really green. I took a couple more pics so people can see. I'm only a second year gardener so I don't have much knowledge really. So the older tomatoe plants that are yellowing are making me think it's just a fertilizer thing. I still haven't got a response about humidity tho. And the 400 watt being over kill the other seedlings look pretty good to me don't they?
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