Discussion forum for the various methods and structures used for getting an early start on your growing season, extending it for several weeks or even year 'round.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
September 3, 2016 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
Can rats, squirrels, chipmunks and mice chew through the 4mm poly sheets? We are overrun with the varmints down here.
|
September 3, 2016 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
|
Most poly is 6mm. It is surprisingly strong. A pressure washer will not damage it. Not that you have to worry about snow, but a single layer of 6mm was enough to collapse my high tunnel from snow, without tearing the plastic first. It pulled five 4x4 posts set in concrete, at each end, about two feet at the top. The force required was enormous. My other greenhouse held, by my guess, over 2,000 pounds of snow and ice on the plastic with no damage.
If you use double-layer poly, you'll need an inflation blower. Use outside air to inflate. Also, if you have roll-up sides, use a single layer for that part, not a double, because it can't be inflated. Without inflation, the layers of plastic rub together and turn cloudy very quickly. The newer plastic has an "infrared block" quality to it. It is opaque, not clear. It is a lot better about not getting too hot in full sun. Clear plastic will make a solar cooker in the late spring and summer. |
September 3, 2016 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
|
|
September 3, 2016 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
Folks, I have decided to build a greenhouse using old house windows that people are throwing in dumpsters around here. Thanks for all your suggestions - I looked at them all, considered carefully, and decided that the best thing that will work for me is a glass greenhouse, customized to my lot, and built of free stuff that would otherwise go into the landfill. I will post a photo here when the 14 by 25 foot greenhouse is done.
|
September 3, 2016 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Near Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,940
|
Sounds good, can't wait to see it!
|
September 3, 2016 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
|
I have seen some bad a$$ green houses made from throw away windows.
Don't forget the sides (North) away from the angel of the sun dont need glass. |
September 5, 2016 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
|
Those old windows were made to be mounted vertically. They are great for that purpose in your greenhouse. However, they were never meant to be a roof. You will have to overcome the issue of water pooling on them, and you won't want to be underneath them the first time a decent-sized hail stone hits, or it will maim you for life.
|
September 5, 2016 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
Hail isn't an issue here in Atlanta (well, except once in a decade or so), but tree limbs are the big issue. I am thinking of putting crosswise 2x2s across the roof to try to reduce the impact of falling limbs, but I am sure I will need to replace panes now and then.
|
September 6, 2016 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 192
|
Here is my hightunnel build
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=39087 Get a $75 jig and bend your own hoops, you'll save thousands. Look up HOA and city bldg permit info. My thread has tons of info about that. Def. go for double poly. You dont need an inflation blower. I used spacer blocks between the layers, they work great. Im finishing a 100 ft run of conduit...electric and 1/2" gas line. The cold spring almost got my toms. That wont happen now. So, think about heat now, you'll likely want to add it later. |
September 6, 2016 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
|
I'm trying to think how to keep water from pooling along the downhill edges of the window panes. Maybe some clear silicone on those places would do the trick. If water sits anywhere, it will rot the wood.
|
September 6, 2016 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
|
I would just pull the glass and make my own frames it it was wood..
What a frigging pain. Worth |
September 6, 2016 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
|
September 7, 2016 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 4,832
|
What about using those rigid poly type sheets thingies for the roof area only? Less likely to get chewed through there, and would let rain run off, plus if they broke, not as dangerous as glass.
Just a thought- I know nothing about building anything. |
September 7, 2016 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 192
|
In my opinion: By the time you finish "modding" used windows so they work for your structure you could have finished the GH if new GH specific products were used.
The last thing I'd want to do is try and invent something only to have it work "so so" after all that time and effort. Use products for how they were intended, my opinion only. |
September 7, 2016 | #30 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 4,832
|
Quote:
I meant that using the poly whatevers, and allowing for a slight over hang - like a house roof has- and the windows for the wall areas. I think with the poly sheets you could also set up rain guttering to catch water and use it. I'm babbling now. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|