Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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January 16, 2017 | #46 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Bill |
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January 17, 2017 | #47 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Well tonight I am starting my seeds. I'm going to do as Bill says and start my scion seeds first. Since I have plenty of seeds for the ones I'm grafting I am going to plant some every 2 days for 10 days then start my rootstock seeds on the 5th day. That way I should be able to get good matches on all of them. I think i'm going to use 25 rootstock seeds the first try and 25 the second. (I only have 50 seeds) so I hope I get at least 50% survival. I think we should start a 2017 grafting thread I have seen several people saying they plan to try it this year.
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January 17, 2017 | #48 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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Not sure what you all think your cost will be, but I found a small professional grafting operation in Lancaster PA that does grafting for $2.35 per plant up to 50 plant. Cheaper if you buy more.
They started a business supplying a tunnel grower that has 5 acres of haygrove tunnels. They then added outside sales to meet demand. They will even grow your seeds if you don't like their standard list. Last edited by PureHarvest; January 17, 2017 at 07:19 PM. |
January 17, 2017 | #49 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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This will be my first year grafting, so I had the initial one-time investment for a razor, clips, and humidity domes. From here on it'll just be roof stock seeds which will run me about $.40 +/- each.
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January 17, 2017 | #50 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Yeah that's not a bad deal but I'd rather learn myself. Been wanting to try the triple variety grafts ever since Delerium posted his. I will have plenty of spare seedlings to try it with. If I get good at it I can see them selling well and really drawing attention at market. If not it would be cool just to grow a few.
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January 17, 2017 | #51 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b
Posts: 1,369
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I'd like to learn too.
But then I also count my labor in costs too and I need a few hundred plants. |
January 17, 2017 | #52 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Yeah, I'm not as concerned since this is mostly still a hobby. I'm just trying to graft my favorite heirlooms so I can enjoy them most of the year.
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January 18, 2017 | #53 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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My goal is to actually cut down on the number of pastes I need to grow to produce enough for least 20-25 quarts of purée. The disease pressures have gotten so bad these past few years that I barely get six quarts from 18-20 plants before they need to be pulled. I'm hoping grafting will allow me to cut back and free up some raised bed space for other crops.
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January 18, 2017 | #54 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,919
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I am going to try few grafting this year too, just to get hooked
Talking about germinating: On Jan 14th ( around noon ) I sowed 15 varieties of tomatoes (first batch ) . Starting 8 pm last nigh (1/17) I saw them popping. Sun Gold was the leader followed by BW Sudduth, Big Beef and my Mystery Black. This is almost 3 and half days, not even 4 days yet. Well, I have to get my grow light system out and set it up, soon ..TODAY The weather, in the middle of our winter is very teasing. Right now @ 4am, it is 60F outside. The forecast calls for high of 72F today. No frost or freeze for the rest of January. Will Feb follow the suit ?
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! Last edited by Gardeneer; January 18, 2017 at 05:29 AM. |
January 18, 2017 | #55 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Bill |
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June 13, 2017 | #56 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Wanted to come back here and share some early observations now that the plants have been in the ground for a little over three weeks.
When all was said and done, I ended up with three varieties with one plant on DR0141TX and a second on RST-04-106-T -- Buddy Runyon, San Marzano Redorta, and Nudi Family Heirloom. So far they are of equal size, their growth habits are the same, and the number of flower trusses pretty equal with blossoms now opening on both. Based on what I'm seeing so far, if you have F and V, but no Bacterial Wilt, I'd say DR0141TX is a good alternative to RST-04-106-T, which covers you for BW but not V. I have one Santa Maria plant in my raised bed on RST-04-106-T and my husband has a non-grafted Sant Maria in a 7 gallon grow bag. They too have about the same number of trusses/open blossoms, but the ungrafted plant is taller. All the rest of my plants are on DR0141TX and the varieties I've grown before seem to be exhibiting typical growth. |
July 24, 2017 | #57 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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V and Probably F -- Which Rootstock?
And here we are at the end of July, and three of the four plants on the RST-04-106-T rootstock are just about done for. The classic yellow to brown V pattern started showing up on the lower leaves about two weeks ago, and it's been downhill since then.
They have their early set fruit hanging, still green except for two on Santa Maria that are blushing, but they are wilting and quickly turning into crispy critters. A slight bleach spray mishap last week seemed to just speed them towards the end. The one exception, so far, is the San Marzano Redorta on RST-04-106-T which is still looking good. I find this odd as San Marzano varieties have never done well in my garden before! All the plants on the DRO141TX rootstock are still doing great despite the bleach spray on a "cloudy all day" day that suddenly turned into a bright, sunny day... they have great new top growth and are still setting fruit. So I would say the presence of Verticillium has been confirmed. Since both rootstock have F resistance, jury is still out on F, but based on past experiences, I still highly suspect it's there. I have enough DRO141TX seed to take me through next year. And in the meantime, if anyone gets their hands on some of the new RST-04-107-T rootstock for next year, I'd love to hear about the results. http://www.dpseeds.com/node/292 Last edited by Father'sDaughter; July 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM. |
July 24, 2017 | #58 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
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My heart sank when I read this today. However, I am glad you found out that it is Verticillium. It is better to know than not. I did look up DRO141TX rootstock, and looks good for what you are dealing with.
If I can afford some of the RST-04-107-T rootstock, I'll send some your way. You can use it on eggplant too...hmm. |
July 25, 2017 | #59 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,150
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Here is a nice link to root stock's and what they are resistant to.
http://www.vegetablegrafting.org/wp/...e-sept-131.pdf
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~ Patti ~ |
July 25, 2017 | #60 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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V and Probably F -- Which Rootstock?
Quote:
That's a great place for anyone looking for rootstock to start, and here is there updated list showing some new ones - http://www.vegetablegrafting.org/tom...otstock-table/ The problem is that many of them don't seem to be widely available, and before doing anything you really do need to go back to the seed producer's websites to verify resistance. And you need to do this even if you are on one of their vendor's sites as they sometimes don't get the list of what it's resistant to quite right.... |
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