Information and discussion about canning and dehydrating tomatoes and other garden vegetables and fruits. DISCLAIMER: SOME RECIPES MAY NOT COMPLY WITH CURRENT FOOD SAFETY GUIDELINES - FOLLOW AT YOUR OWN RISK
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#136 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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Worth,
I've just had a look at my 921 All american pressure canner. there is a reinforcement inside the lid at the location of the manometer. I unscrewed the manometer and found the threaded part on the lid was 11 millimeters long. I screwed back the manometer into place, trying the keep the original torque. I had two mm of thread left on the manometer. Inside the lid I could see there was still a fairly long threaded lenght. The threading is standard in plumbing, replacements should be easy. I suppose a highly qualified TIG welder could build a reinforcement on any kind of lid but the heat might alter its shape. Personnally I wouldn't advise it to amateurs ! |
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#137 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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I suspected there was a reinforcement at the threaded places. Just so you know the rule of thumb for pipe fittings is 4 turns by hand and three by force. You might want to take it off and put some pipe thread sealant on it. May I ask about how wide the thread boss is on the inside of the canner? I'm with you, there is no way I would weld on the thing. 11 MM more than meets the requirements for a 1/4 pipe thread on pressure vessels. Also I went to the foundry site that makes the canner and found this information. 7) IS IT NECESSARY TO HAVE MY GAUGE TESTED WHEN USING THE PRESSURE REGULATOR WEIGHT? No, the pressure regulator weight is actually more accurate than the steam gauge. Many pressure cookers with pressure regulator weights do not have steam gauges. Our gauge is accurate +/- 2 lbs, and is used only as a reference, and to determine when the cover can be safely removed, which is when the steam gauge returns to zero. Here is the link. http://www.allamerican-chefsdesign.c...-Questions.asp |
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#138 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Now here is something I found on line.
I feel like an idiot I could have googled inside canner lid. ![]() I also see the lid has two more bosses not being utilized. Looks like a good place for a temperature gauge to me. ![]() Worth Canner lid1.jpg Last edited by Worth1; September 2, 2015 at 11:59 AM. |
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#139 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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Worth,
the boss is 3 cm wide, with a varying thickness as it is set on a curve and gives a horizontal surface. I must say a manometer is not really important. I look at it to watch the pressure rising inside, which makes me happy. The only use I can think of is checking there is no more pressure when a batch is over, but you can lift the regulator weight with a cloth or a glove and put it back immediately if steam hisses out. If the manometer dies one day I think I'll just plug the hole. |
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#140 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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The smallest fitting I can find is for 1/4 pipe threads. I am a finicky perfectionist and like to improve things and get them as accurate as possible. I set my table saw to where it has zero run out from one end of the fence to the other with a dial indicator. I check my thermometers buy using boiling water. Since I am at 400 feet above sea level water boils at 212 degrees. My digital thermometer reads 212 degrees at a rolling boil in the center of the water. Thank you for your help Worth |
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#141 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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Worth,
Sorry I'm late to answer, I was away from home. I had already noticed you were a perfectionist, as you are qualified in several fields following your posts is always a pleasure. let me imagine freely some paths you might explore. - in a garage sale you may find a used All American canner in good condition, drill a hole in a free boss, thread it and add a thermometer. - you can buy a new canner. Don't drill the lid, the warranty would be void, but replace the manometer - useless for the expert you are - by a thermometer. Don't forget to tell us about the results ! |
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#142 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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![]() When I buy the canner I will also buy another new lid to go with it for $75.00. I have done a ton of research and looked on line for parts to replace the cheap gauge on the canner. From this research I have found a good one will cost about 40 to 50 dollars. To protect the new gauge from high temperature steam I will install what is called a steam gauge siphon. Here is what one of them looks like. ![]() What it does is holds water or oil in a trap so the pressure is transmitted but not the hot steam. This allows you to use a non high temperature gauge in an application where there is high temperatures. They come in many forms. Here is a simplified drawing of how both the temperature and pressure gauge can be used from the same hole in the canner. It also shows how a steam gauge siphon works. It is also why I needed to know about the bosses in the lid. The hole will have to be enlarged to fit a 1/4 pipe thread so there will be enough room for the steam to get past the temperature gauge probe. Canner with thermometer1.jpg The old canner will become a distiller to make distilled water to use in the new canner and to generate steam to bend wood. |
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#143 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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I see you know perfectly where you are going. The siphon filled with glycarin is a good idea to avoid corrosion.
I think it would be easier to fit manometer and thermometer in different threaded holes. Now I think I'll wait till you show us an All American canner changed into a Ferrari ! |
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#144 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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I think it was in this thread I asked about the height of the All American canners because of my stove having a microwave over it.
The other day I pulled my stove out to clean and it dawned on me what I could do. Just pull the stupid stove out about 6 inches so I can use the canner. ![]() What a brain storm that was. ![]() Worth |
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#145 |
Tomatoville® Recipe Keeper
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Roseburg, Oregon - zone 7
Posts: 2,821
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Well, there ya go!
__________________
Corona~Barb Now an Oregon gal |
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#146 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Word of advice from my husband the plumber/HVAC tech -- don't make a habit of moving any gas appliance that uses a residential grade flexible gas connector. He said they are not designed to withstand regular bending and moving about and are basically a one-time use connector.
He recommends that if anyone is going to make a habit of pulling their gas range in and out, they should have the connection hose upgraded to a commercial grade heavy duty hose. These are designed for commercial cooking equipment that needs to be moved regularly for maintenance and cleaning. |
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#147 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Mines electric and I always buy industrial grade stuff.
I cant count how many times I seen those other lines crack Worth |
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#148 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Then your range is free to go free range! 😄😄😄 And hopefully others with gas ranges who see your solution will also upgrade their connector line before employing it. |
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