New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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December 17, 2012 | #226 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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LOL I was just going to mention that Baiz! But the pic you posted was removed.
The only thing I want personally to see in comparison is against vermiculite. I have been using vermiculite for years and years. I haven't found a better or cheaper starting medium yet. DE is pretty cheap though and all you guys had pretty good results. So I may do some experimenting myself. Did you use a plastic cover? I typically need to use a plastic cover with vermiculite.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
December 18, 2012 | #227 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I have used a half dozen seed starting mixes with the same damping off problems. I am hoping that the UltrSorb will help with that. The UltrSorb has been far superior to all other seed starting mixes I have tried in germination percentages. The truest test has been with two seeds that have always been a pain to get good germination from and that is spinach and cilantro. I am hoping to get the same good results with some of the really slow germinating pepper seeds.
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December 18, 2012 | #228 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX - 9a
Posts: 211
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Quote:
O'Reilly Auto Parts had Optisorb, but not Ultrasorb. It's like a treasure hunt |
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December 18, 2012 | #229 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,448
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His stuff looks more like the "diatomite" sold on orchid sites. It looks pea-gravel size to me. The two sizes I have (spill absorbers) seem to work fine for tomato seedlings though.
I've also used 100% vermiculite with good results but don't like that it is so light and it dries too quickly for me. Best results I have are with one of the old school Cornell peat-lite mixes I learned to use when I was a horticulture undergrad at Cal Poly. I think it's something like 70% peat and 30% perlite (v:v) plus some lime. Easy to make in small batches. Last edited by ChrisK; December 18, 2012 at 11:13 AM. Reason: stupid typos |
December 18, 2012 | #230 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX - 9a
Posts: 211
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I've never tried vermiculite for seed starting, and I don't use it at all anymore. It always seemed to disintegrate so fast and hold so much water. Counter productive as an additive in many situations.
The thing I like best about DE is that it never, ever gets hydrophobic. The worst thing about peat or coir based starting mixes is trying to get them wet - you're never quite sure if you've done it, it gets so messy, the volume changes constantly. DE accepts water instantly and doesn't compress at all. |
December 19, 2012 | #231 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turkey
Posts: 393
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My Red Robin in diatomite set fruit under lights.
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December 19, 2012 | #232 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
It is actually the traditional commercial seed starter. I learned it at a commercial seed company I worked for in my youth. Because it holds water so well you can start the seeds in very small cubes, then repot into 3 or 4 inch pots. Or in real large scale commercial they replant into large trays and once they reach the proper size, sell them bare root. All I did is modify it slightly for myself, taking the best of both worlds. I start in vermiculite, but use a better (and far more expensive) mix for my pots. And I don't use the bare root method. Then like you said vermiculite does deteriorate quickly, which is fantastic in the garden. As it deteriorates it has a great trace mineral profile. I am not saying it is the best method, but it works and it is cheap. That's why I would like to see it compared to DE. Maybe I'll do a germination test between the two myself one day.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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December 20, 2012 | #233 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turkey
Posts: 393
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Capsicum annuum 'Nosegay' in subirrigation pot containing diatomite flowered under lights.
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December 27, 2012 | #234 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turkey
Posts: 393
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Just a short update, C. annuum 'Nosegay' set fruit under lights.Others to come soon!
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December 28, 2012 | #235 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: 6b
Posts: 56
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Wow. This was/is an excellent thread. I'll be starting some hot pepper seeds next month and I will try using this DE medium! Thanks for the info!
Last edited by Calcat36; December 28, 2012 at 06:34 PM. Reason: typo |
December 28, 2012 | #236 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turkey
Posts: 393
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Baby tomatoes on Red Robin.
Diatomite is not only a seed starting medium but also a high yielding growing medium for almost all plants including tomatoes.My deep freezer is full of chilli pods from plants grown in straight diatomite last season, more than I could consume actually! I hope some members dare to grow plants in diatomite instead of transferring them to soil. |
December 28, 2012 | #237 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,448
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I'd be interested in your system. My tomatoes are looking pretty sad in the ultrasorb.
Quote:
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December 28, 2012 | #238 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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December 28, 2012 | #239 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,448
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December 28, 2012 | #240 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
I'll be using organic methods like I did last year for seed starting in DE, buy I'll take it to another level from what I've learned over the year. For organics to work in a system with an inert media you need suitable microorganisms to quickly mineralize a soluble organic nutrient since you don't have the complex mix of organic material and biota as you would in soil. General Hydroponics has been working in the area of perfecting Bioponics (not the fish culture version) for some years now and they say Trichoderma fungi are the organisms of choice for this task. They are highly adaptable, and grow fast as long as they have a stable environment with warmth, oxygen, consistent moisture and a food source. My concern was would Trichoderma be happy in Diatomite, but I read a study a while back done in India where they successfully cultured Trichoderma harzianum in Diatomite with only molasses as a food source as an inoculant to be spread in an agricultural field. |
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