New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
December 10, 2010 | #241 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Zone 6
Posts: 365
|
I saw a couple of previous posts regarding the dense planting of broccoli, but no mention was made of how it worked out. Has anyone tried broccoli or cauliflower this way? As an experiment; I started 9 of each in a 2 1/2" container. They are coming up, but I am not sure at what point I should attempt to transplant...are the root systems of these type of crops as tough as those of peppers and tomatoes?
|
December 10, 2010 | #242 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 100
|
I grew cauliflower and broccoli (and tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, Brussels sprouts, & parsley) last year using the dense planting method of seed starting (my first time starting anything from seed). My plants all responded well - no issues with potting up. As I recall, I just waited until the seedlings got their 2nd set of true leaves, then potted them up into 3.5" pots, where they stayed until going into the ground.
|
December 11, 2010 | #243 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Zone 6
Posts: 365
|
Quote:
|
|
December 22, 2010 | #244 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
|
Wow! These videos are great. It completely changed my perspective on starting from seed and transplanting. I'm just a small backyard gardener, but this approach will still save me time. I usually double transplant tomato seedlings (first to a 2 inch pot, then to a 4 inch pot). I like the idea of going straight to a 4 inch pot. I also baby my plants under the grow lights too much until it gets warm outside (and probably water them too often). My seedlings will go outside much earlier this year.
|
February 7, 2011 | #245 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 100
|
Time to bump this excellent thread.
|
February 20, 2011 | #246 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Zone 6
Posts: 365
|
Just curious...you 'pot up' into 4-inch pots...how deep are those pots? You use round pots...do you prefer those to square for some reason, or is it just personal preference?
|
February 20, 2011 | #247 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Zone 6
Posts: 365
|
Quote:
|
|
February 20, 2011 | #248 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
|
Hi there, just checked in to this thread...to answer a few questions on this page -
the transplanted beets were a great success - perfect beets perfectly spaced! No difference in round or square pots - whatever I can get from the farm supply place - though I am thinking of using the thin plastic 3 inch squares in sheets of 18, so I can fit more into the mesh basket trays. The depth is about 4 inches (am away for the weekend, so just going on memory). Glad people are getting use out of the vids!
__________________
Craig |
February 20, 2011 | #249 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
|
Craig, I have a flat of peppers where many of the cells have seedlings that are about 1 inch tall. However, several cells have not sprouted at all yet. I am wondering if I should keep the plastic on in the hope the the last remaining cells germinate, or should I take the plastic off, get the good plants under grow lights, and re-plant the slow pokes?
|
February 20, 2011 | #250 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
|
Some peppers (and eggplant) can be real slowpokes. Once the majority of the cells have life, that is when I toss the plastic and get them under lights - if you keep the non=growing cells moist, often they will show - especially once the flats can get into some real sunlight. The other possibility is to cut squares or strips of saran wrap to fit over the non-germinating cells - that way you can uncover the flat and get good air circulation, and keep moisture in the ones that haven't germinated yet.
__________________
Craig |
February 25, 2011 | #251 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 27
|
The peppers/eggplants/tomatoes you grow in your driveway in pots - what size pots/growbags are you using? Is the yield comparable to what you get in the garden? re: the June 11th update video.
|
February 25, 2011 | #252 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
|
For eggplants, 5 gallon work great. For peppers, 5 gallon for sweets, 1 gallon or larger for hots. Yields for eggplant and peppers far surpasses garden grown plants for me - I think it is because they love hot roots.
The Dwarf tomatoes do fine in 5 gallon, would of course yield more in larger pots. For Indeterminate tomatoes, 10 gallon or more is recommended. Yields are comparable in a typical season - last year nothing did well anywhere due to excessive heat, consistently.
__________________
Craig |
February 25, 2011 | #253 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kansas CIty
Posts: 560
|
I agree Craig...peppers and eggplant in containers far outperform those in the ground. The peppers also over-winter in the house very well.
__________________
Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a |
February 27, 2011 | #254 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
|
February 27, 2011 | #255 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
|
I get the plug flats from Johnnys, and the 4 inch plastic pots from a local garden supply center - they are made by the Kord company (that's what the box says). I think this year I am moving to the sheets of 18 3 inch square pots to save a bit on planting mix and allow 3 more pots in the basket trays I use. Plus, they are much less expensive than the individual plastic pots.
__________________
Craig |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|