My 2012 Tomato Grow List

[kurt]

The spacings are at about two foot.Since they are containerized the size saucer/pot determines the spacing.Also keeping in mind the variety (det/indeterminate).I grow the sweet millions that I keep at about 2 !/2 foot(very prolific and tall)The reisenstruabes can be kept at about 2 foot.I grow a apero that can be kept at 2 foot.Spacing also depends on the individual plant.Some of the same varietys and stock are stronger amongst them selves.So at the bamboo pot(two poles) I will put the faster stronger growing plant so as when the plant developes the first two main leaders I will support them right to the poles with pipe cleaners or velcro ties.Then usually five or six plants down the row another double pole pot.Then when the first leaders show that where the horizontal twine comes into play.For the determinate or large round maters I will just use a single pole then 5-6 plants then another single pole,then again a horizontal twine between them fastened to the poles but with a single wrap around tightened with the twist wire tie to allow adjustment up or down and to also tighten the sag as the plants grow.Best place for bamboo is at the nodes or knuckles.The whole ladder Idea is to let me adjust the twine and the leaders of the plant to where I want them instead of a fixed trellis.Also I can break it down and store for next year.Just as a note for containers after the plant show roots coming out of the holes at the bottom of the pot I water at the saucers fill them up and can monitor the amount of moisture that each plant might need.I will mix fertilizer with this water about once a week but usually use the foliar spray for best results.Correct watering can prevent the overwatering/cracking problem that some cherrys seem to get.

[Neohippie]

I'm bad about accumulating more seeds than I can grow, so 2012 is supposed to be a seed using-up year. And that's hard because I've already gotten the 2012 catalogs for Totally Tomatoes and Seed Savers Exchange.

Tomato seeds I have waiting to be grown:

White Currant
Green Zebra
Spear's Tennessee Green
Big Beef X EVB (got this one from someone here, actually)
Arkansas Traveler
Big Month
Alyx Little Sun
Super Snow White
Dr. Carolyn
Riesentraube

Probably have to narrow my list down a bit. I can grow 20-40 tomato plants depending on how much garden room I want to be available for other crops.

[Alpinejs]

Neo....I gather that you like cherry tomatoes as your list (IMO) is way overladen with such. Where are the great ones like Sudduth, Cherokee
Green, Cherokee Purple, Kosovo, etc.?

Also, not meaning to be nit-picking, but San Marcos is in California, not Texas.

[Too Tall Toms]

Originally Posted by kurt

The spacings are at about two foot.Since they are containerized the size saucer/pot determines the spacing.Also keeping in mind the variety (det/indeterminate).I grow the sweet millions that I keep at about 2 !/2 foot(very prolific and tall)The reisenstruabes can be kept at about 2 foot.I grow a apero that can be kept at 2 foot.Spacing also depends on the individual plant.Some of the same varietys and stock are stronger amongst them selves.So at the bamboo pot(two poles) I will put the faster stronger growing plant so as when the plant developes the first two main leaders I will support them right to the poles with pipe cleaners or velcro ties.Then usually five or six plants down the row another double pole pot.Then when the first leaders show that where the horizontal twine comes into play.For the determinate or large round maters I will just use a single pole then 5-6 plants then another single pole,then again a horizontal twine between them fastened to the poles but with a single wrap around tightened with the twist wire tie to allow adjustment up or down and to also tighten the sag as the plants grow.Best place for bamboo is at the nodes or knuckles.The whole ladder Idea is to let me adjust the twine and the leaders of the plant to where I want them instead of a fixed trellis.Also I can break it down and store for next year.Just as a note for containers after the plant show roots coming out of the holes at the bottom of the pot I water at the saucers fill them up and can monitor the amount of moisture that each plant might need.I will mix fertilizer with this water about once a week but usually use the foliar spray for best results.Correct watering can prevent the overwatering/cracking problem that some cherrys seem to get.

That's one heck of a system Kurt. I don't know if I would be able to rig up something like that.
I'm thinking that to make things simple, I will probably go with a cattle-fence type trellis, since I'm having three separate raised beds for the tomatoes and they'll all be in single rows.
The more I think about it, the more confused I get. I'm not that great at figuring stuff out and I'm really bad with tools. It's a good thing that I have months before I have to come up with something.

[kurt]

Originally Posted by Too Tall Toms

That's one heck of a system Kurt. I don't know if I would be able to rig up something like that.
I'm thinking that to make things simple, I will probably go with a cattle-fence type trellis, since I'm having three separate raised beds for the tomatoes and they'll all be in single rows.
The more I think about it, the more confused I get. I'm not that great at figuring stuff out and I'm really bad with tools. It's a good thing that I have months before I have to come up with something.

Sorry if I confused the issue.To make it simple imagine ladders standing straight up and twine horizontally between them for the cherrys on each side of the rungs.For non cherrys single poles with horizontal twine.I just use this because if I used poles for each plant the set up would cost more than the maters are worth.Cherrys can get very prolific and grow onto each other intertwine and suffocate each other,also start hanging on to the regular tomatoes,I try to keep them seperated as much as possible.But it is all in fun since it is more of a hobby,good therapy and it keeps the wife happy since she justs eats them and really dos not help in the process.

[Neohippie]

Originally Posted by Alpinejs

Neo....I gather that you like cherry tomatoes as your list (IMO) is way overladen with such. Where are the great ones like Sudduth, Cherokee
Green, Cherokee Purple, Kosovo, etc.?

Also, not meaning to be nit-picking, but San Marcos is in California, not Texas.

Actually, just the opposite, it's overladen with cherries because I haven't been growing them as much, even though people keep sending them to me in seed trades. I probably won't grow them all next year either, but that means I need to decide between them.

I grew Cherokee Purple this past year. Love it, but I thought I should give some other tomatoes a chance in 2012. The list was of all the ones I have seeds for but haven't grown yet.

For sure I'm going to grow Big Month (for canning), Arkansas Traveler, Green Zebra, and White Currant, but not sure if I'm going to add any more to that list.

San Marcos, California is always coming up in Google searches when I'm trying to find stuff around here. It's very annoying.

[cecilsgarden1958]

Here's mine:

First Prize
Wisconsin 55
Hamson

Possibly Bush Big Boy & Sweet Baby Girl

CECIL

Originally Posted by carolyn137

T and M were the first to sell Sungold F1, but I've grown the same from Pinetree and I know others have grown the F1 from many other places.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/l...705457548.html

You might find the above link interesting. I made an error there and thought that his variety was bred by Sakata but it was bred by Tokita, both in Japan but both have US operations as well.

If a variety is F1, it's F1, and Tokita would be the source being the breeder of this variety.

In the link above the same is also said and the instance where Burpee was selling the F1 seeds and they were wrong the variety isn't the first time that Burpee has made "mistakes" with varieties, both F1 and OP.

In that above thread I said that I left Burpee in the dust many years ago and I still agree with that comment.

Thanks Carol.
And as a side-note [probably a good subject for another thread] you would think that major companies would join or peruse these forums and defend, admit, and/or fix their mistakes in the tomato-seed-selling world. At least admit wrong-doing and try and make amends...?

[carolyn137]

Originally Posted by WillysWoodPile

Thanks Carol.
And as a side-note [probably a good subject for another thread] you would think that major companies would join or peruse these forums and defend, admit, and/or fix their mistakes in the tomato-seed-selling world. At least admit wrong-doing and try and make amends...?

I remember Travis contacting Burpee about I think a wrong Bloody Butcher and posting the Burpee response here, I think, and the response was not helpful.

Of the larger companies I know of just Ruth, jungseed, who posts here. That's not to say that there are others here who are associated with various seed companies, I know some are, but they read maybe, but don't post. It just isn't cost effective to assign employees to monitor the many many message sites now in operation on the net.

Maybe it's just me but I can't see folks from larger companies such as maybe Johnny's, Territorial, Stokes, etc,. assigning someone to join various message sites as a lookout and go to person.

And if folks get wrong seeds from the smaller family run companies it's usually handled internally on a personal basis, which I think it should be.

[gourmetgardener]

Originally Posted by b54red

Usually I recognize one or two tomatoes on a list but I'm stumped with these. Where are you ordering them from?

Here is a description:
Granadero - A Plum/Roma type tomato. Resistant to almost anything you can throw at it. Tall indeterminate plant, **Very** productive - 5000 lbs+ in 200ft double row - about 20 - 23 lbs per plant.
Geronimo - A non-greenback large beefsteak tomato very resistant to cracking. Very productive tall indeterminate plant. Good flavour.

Beorange - A medium sized orange beefsteak on a tall indeterminate plant. Excellent production. Much longer shelf life than other orange beefsteaks.

Abrason - A non-greenback large beefsteak tomato with good cracking resistance. Tall indeterminate plant.

Annelise - A sister variety of Campari with added disease resistances. Looks identical, in fact is almost indistinguishable tastewise.

Atavico - A tall indeterminate San Marzano type. Very productive.

Sakura - A tall indeterminate red cherry type tomato.

Montessino - A red grape tomato.

Sunstream - One of the original strawberry type tomatoes. Tall indeterminate plant type. Can be cluster harvested, or harvested as singles. Very good flavour, excellent productivity.

Loranne - A yellow/orange grape tomato. Is sold by Sunset/Mastronardi as Zima tomatoes. Very high sugars. Tall indeterminate plant from the Hazera boutique line can be happily grown indoors or outdoors. Is a good replacement for Solid Gold which I could no longer get from my suppliers this year.

Geronimo, Arbason, Granadero, Montessino, and Sakura are available from Johnny's selected seeds. Annelise is available from Seeds of Change.

My sources are:

Paramount Seeds - Geronimo, Loranne, Beorange, Granadero, Atavico (Minimum orders are 250 seeds for DeRuiter varieties, 1000 seeds for Enza Zaden and Hazera varieties).

Linbloms (Sweden) - must ship to friend in EU - Sunstream ($$$$$), Annelise ($$$$)

Johnny's Selected Seeds - Arbason, Sakura, Montessino, Indigo Rose

[hoffman900]

My list.

Red Ponderosa grafted to Maxifort (looking to improve yields on what has been an excellent producing and tasting tomato for me).
Granadero

[Too Tall Toms]

I got my two shipments of tomato seeds today. Tomatofest sent me a freebie....St Ivy. Tatiana's sent me TWO freebies....Tomatito de Jalapa, and Lescana.

Since I got those freebies, I'm skipping Big Zac, Sungold F1, and a red cherry.

15 different varieties.....my 2012 grow list is complete!