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Old March 3, 2014   #16
sm1nts2escape
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I'm using well water. I have no idea what the ph is but I do know that there is a lot of calcium in the water. I will do a ph test this weekend. I am running a 2' 6 bulb t5 in this 3x2x3 grow tent now.
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Old March 4, 2014   #17
kevn357
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You have fertilizer burn. Hold off for a week and see what happens. Actually, looking at your zone, just stop fertilizing all together and lower the temps big time to stun them.
Or, if you still have seed I would start over in a week or two. May 15th is still 10+ weeks away. You can use the same pots you are using now if you go that route. Just take it easy on the fertilizers. They really don't need it until they show it.
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Old March 4, 2014   #18
RayR
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I should be setting them out mid May. I didn't think these things would grow so fast... I already ordered a bigger tent and pots. I will be potting up next week and using fox soil so hopefully that will correct most of my problems (feeding/watering). I was worried this was fusarium wilt but this is my first year growing from seed so I have no idea and came here to see what everyone else says.
Ya, you started way too early.
Which Happy Frog fertilizer were your using?
You've got yellowing at the bottom and top leaves?
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Old March 4, 2014   #19
JamesL
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I can't speak to deficiency but as jmsieglaff, kevn357 and RayR pointed out you might have a "larger" problem in short order. They will be monsters in a month.
You mention a bigger tent and pots, are the plants outside or in a garage?
If possible you should try to get the temps down. Do a search on "cold treatment". Its plenty cold out so if you can keep them between 35 and 50 growth will slow way down. More manageable size, better root structure, less watering and Fert will be needed.
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Old March 4, 2014   #20
jmsieglaff
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Originally Posted by kevn357 View Post
Or, if you still have seed I would start over in a week or two. May 15th is still 10+ weeks away. You can use the same pots you are using now if you go that route. Just take it easy on the fertilizers. They really don't need it until they show it.
I don't think that's bad advice. It might seem earlier is better because you want the biggest plants as possible when planting out--but you don't want that. A very large plant will suffer from more transplant shock--if bad enough the plants will underproduce compared to smaller transplants.

If you don't want to scrap the work you've done thus far you could plant the plants into 5 gallon or larger containers with good mix and grow those tomatoes in containers. Just something to chew on. I plant my tomatoes out typically May 15-20 and start mine on March 30.
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Old March 4, 2014   #21
sm1nts2escape
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Ya, you started way too early.
Which Happy Frog fertilizer were your using?
You've got yellowing at the bottom and top leaves?

I was using their tomato fert which is a 7-4-4 I think. Tops and bottom leaves were yellowing. New leaves look nice and green then when they get a little older they start yellowing.
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Old March 4, 2014   #22
sm1nts2escape
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I don't think that's bad advice. It might seem earlier is better because you want the biggest plants as possible when planting out--but you don't want that. A very large plant will suffer from more transplant shock--if bad enough the plants will underproduce compared to smaller transplants.

If you don't want to scrap the work you've done thus far you could plant the plants into 5 gallon or larger containers with good mix and grow those tomatoes in containers. Just something to chew on. I plant my tomatoes out typically May 15-20 and start mine on March 30.
The plants are in a 3x2x3 grow tent inside the house right now. I have a 6x3x6 on the way for the peppers along with 1 gallon pots. I can put them in a unheated room that temps stay around 60*
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Old March 4, 2014   #23
RayR
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I was using their tomato fert which is a 7-4-4 I think. Tops and bottom leaves were yellowing. New leaves look nice and green then when they get a little older they start yellowing.
You mean Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 7-4-5? That's an organic granular, not a soluble. It should be mixed into the soil, not with water.
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Old March 4, 2014   #24
Worth1
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The plants are in a 3x2x3 grow tent inside the house right now. I have a 6x3x6 on the way for the peppers along with 1 gallon pots. I can put them in a unheated room that temps stay around 60*
60 degrees is fine and if you have a window you can crack and bring it lower do it.
This will put them in a state of suspended animation.
I have done this with the surplus plants I have had as insurance.

Now I have to say something that I hope doesn't insult the people that are following this thread and replying to you.
(Including me)
Every one of them have tried to help and that is great.
BUT if I didn't know what I was doing I would be very confused right now from all of the different possible causes of the leaves looking the way they do.

I dont see anything wrong with your plants.

In my experience I plant seeds +or- 8 weeks before plant out time.

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Old March 4, 2014   #25
sm1nts2escape
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You mean Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 7-4-5? That's an organic granular, not a soluble. It should be mixed into the soil, not with water.
I know. I used it in a pinch. Like I said I brewed it in hot water shaking twice a day for 3 days then strained.

I will move my tent into the cold room and hopefully they don't mind the temp change.
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Old March 4, 2014   #26
RayR
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I know. I used it in a pinch. Like I said I brewed it in hot water shaking twice a day for 3 days then strained.

I will move my tent into the cold room and hopefully they don't mind the temp change.
I agree with Worth, I don't see anything critically wrong with the plants at this point. I do see some nutrient deficiency issues showing though.
If you can get something like liquid fish hydrolyzate/seaweed that will help to green them up. The concoction with the granular organic Happy Frog isn't going to work, it's unstable, going anaerobic and is putrefying. The anaerobic metabolites are not good for the plant and they stink like hell.
No more Epsom salts and no more molasses, too much sugars are either going to put the plants in shock or cause too much bacterial growth which will rob all the nitrogen from soil. Some bacteria is beneficial, but overpopulation is not what you want. Lowering the soil temperature a bit will slow that down some too.
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Old March 4, 2014   #27
ssi912
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transplant them into bigger cups with a quality potting MIX. jiffy mix stinks except for seed starting. good mixes are pro mix, metro mix 360, anything fox farm just to name a few.
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