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Old January 13, 2017   #16
PureHarvest
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He was talking about Epsom salts with the assumption that is the form most people are using/recommending including hydro-gardens.
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Old January 13, 2017   #17
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Nice tip on the actinovate, I have read so much about it but if it is recommended for commercial growers it obviously works. Good info as usual, thanks.
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Old January 13, 2017   #18
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I do appreciate the input. I have decided to give up on the Rockwool. Lack of info, and cost.

Instead I am now looking in Coco Coir, as an alternative.
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Old January 13, 2017   #19
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Pro mix now carries a peat coco blend, it may be worth looking at, that way you get some mycorrhizae in your mix. I had a couple bales dropped off for a sample, so I will be doing some side by sides this year.
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Old January 13, 2017   #20
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I think container growing in the heat of south could be tough, especially if the container is fabric bag on the small size side. I am down here in Southwest Columbus cty, NC. This is going to be my first season here. I will be growing in beds and might try a few in container too. I mix some Floor Dry (DE , from O Reily). It holds good amount of moisture, as opposed to perlite that does not absorb any moisture. I might even get some pine bark fine to mix with peat moss and FD.
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Old January 13, 2017   #21
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PH, that is some great info on lowering temps with shade cloth to cut down on yellow shoulders. I'd read other info on that and will be doing to lower my garden temps like reflective material and re-positioning the toms further from the house. Got this hail netting that's 15% shade and will probably leave that up all season over the patch.

FourOaks, the coco coir is what I'll be experimenting with this year in pots. Last year used promixHP in 15gal fabric pots and looking to move more into 10gal pots in both fabric and poly this year. I've read a simple effective mix is 10%-30% perlite to coir, microbes might be beneficial too.
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Old January 13, 2017   #22
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Perlite is like 90% air and 10% water at the wettest. For vermiculite, those numbers are reversed. It's about 90% water when wet.

Vermiculite is cheaper when it is sold as insulation, or at least in my location. Here is the product I buy: http://www.menards.com/main/building...25916490028712

It sounds awful to say that I start seeds in insulation, but on the back of that bag, it says "Sun-Gro Horticulture of Canada."
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Old January 13, 2017   #23
Ricky Shaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKmark View Post
Pro mix now carries a peat coco blend, it may be worth looking at, that way you get some mycorrhizae in your mix.

I did not know about this Promix coco blend. Excellent! This way, you get the microbe package, and you know the coir is right. Improperly processed coir seems to be a concern, from off brands.
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Old January 14, 2017   #24
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Soon I will make my own seed starting mix. Peat moss + Floor Dry (DE).

QUESTION: Can you use cat litter ( Soft Paw brand , all natural Fuller Earth, no additive ) in potting mix ?
Dollar Tree is selling 7 lbs bag of it for $1. It say that it can absorb 123% 0f its weight in moisture. That is even better than floor dry (DE)
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Old January 14, 2017   #25
FourOaks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardeneer View Post
... I might even get some pine bark fine to mix with peat moss and FD.
If your on the hunt for the elusive "pine bark fines', check Southern States. My local location has bags of "soil conditioner". Looks to be about the right size. Saw a pallet of it 2 days ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Shaw View Post
PH, that is some great info on lowering temps with shade cloth to cut down on yellow shoulders. I'd read other info on that and will be doing to lower my garden temps like reflective material and re-positioning the toms further from the house. Got this hail netting that's 15% shade and will probably leave that up all season over the patch.

FourOaks, the coco coir is what I'll be experimenting with this year in pots. Last year used promixHP in 15gal fabric pots and looking to move more into 10gal pots in both fabric and poly this year. I've read a simple effective mix is 10%-30% perlite to coir, microbes might be beneficial too.
Yep, im getting ready to order enough to cover both of my tunnels. The 12x24 will house seedlings, then hydroponic cucumbers. The 12x50 will be for the maters.

I have read, watched a bunch of videos on the Coir. Im not seeing anything conclusive as to whether or not perlite is even needed. I know of 2 specific small scale farms that grow in pure Coir, in 5 gallon poly, with drip. Im modeling my setup after that. Really the only change is the soil. One is in Virginia, the other Colorado.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie View Post
Perlite is like 90% air and 10% water at the wettest. For vermiculite, those numbers are reversed. It's about 90% water when wet.

Vermiculite is cheaper when it is sold as insulation, or at least in my location. Here is the product I buy: http://www.menards.com/main/building...25916490028712

It sounds awful to say that I start seeds in insulation, but on the back of that bag, it says "Sun-Gro Horticulture of Canada."
I think my bags of perlite say something about insulation. Its all in how you look at it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Shaw View Post
I did not know about this Promix coco blend. Excellent! This way, you get the microbe package, and you know the coir is right. Improperly processed coir seems to be a concern, from off brands.
I didn't know Promix made a coir product either. Yep, the guys at my local Hydro store was explaining how they process the Coir. Basically, the really cheap stuff, unprocessed, unwashed, ends up at the big box store for dirt cheap. Its not worth bring home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardeneer View Post
Soon I will make my own seed starting mix. Peat moss + Floor Dry (DE).

QUESTION: Can you use cat litter ( Soft Paw brand , all natural Fuller Earth, no additive ) in potting mix ?
Dollar Tree is selling 7 lbs bag of it for $1. It say that it can absorb 123% 0f its weight in moisture. That is even better than floor dry (DE)
I always just used the same homebrew mix for both seedlings and my grow bags, and raised beds. This year im going pure Coir all the way. I just started some pepper seeds yesterday. So if I have any trouble with damping off or other problems, ill comment.

Can't help you with the kitty litter.
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Old January 14, 2017   #26
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One more comment on the Coir vs Peat. Quality Coir seems to be neutral. No need to PH adjust. So, no need for lime, no need for perlite (so far). So, while it might seem expensive on the onset, the lack of additional ingredients and mixing ingredients will be well worth it. If it works.

As stated above, I started some pepper seeds (72 cell tray). Ill post something as they pop up.
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Old January 14, 2017   #27
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Thanks Four Oaks.

Any comment on FULLER EARTH ( cat litter ), anybody ?
Thanks in advance.
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Old January 14, 2017   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourOaks View Post
Now that I am really thinking about this problem, I wonder if I wouldnt be better off to add something like a saucer to catch excess, so it can reabsorb until the next water cycle.

I think if I did that, I would add extra drainage holes.
I was always looking for larger saucer to catch container over flow AND THE FERTS THAT YOU PUT IN THE PLANT FEEDING CYCLE.
I found some nice rugged 2inch high, green 16-18 inch saucers online
I incorporated this hand pump to rewater the plants next to when hand over watering and as a added bonus the rainsplash(I am on deck)plus when needed i can fill saucers up also.Keeps the ants from direct pathway contact which they love here in 10b as a hive starter(that is the containers)It helps me monitor the uptake you see in some sick and old plants.

http://www.davis.com/Product/Hand_op...t=All+Products



https://www.wayfair.com/Hydrofarm-Ro...P-HYF1338.html
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Last edited by kurt; January 14, 2017 at 12:08 PM. Reason: spelin /info
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Old January 14, 2017   #29
FourOaks
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Thanks for the links, Kurt.

My plan for the Coir is slowly developing. Im going to forgo any drip trays, instead focusing on runoff. My goal is roughly 10-15 percent. This will help to wash salts out, and hydrate the plant.

I just need to pick up a decent digital timer to control the fertilizer pump.

Obviously as the season goes, the time settings will have to be adjusted. This one time may be a good time to actually keep notes, for future reference.
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Old January 14, 2017   #30
AKmark
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Four Oaks, pH will depend on the pH of your source water, and the ratio of Ammoniacal N. versus Nitrate N. I have to use Phosphoric Acid to lower mine.

Gardeneer, I start about 4-5K plants in plain ol Pro-mix, just keep it wet, you will have 95-100 percent germination rate. I used to use all different kinds of seed starter mixes and recipes, quit that several years ago, waste of time and money. Edit here LOL, just don't let it get crispy dry, just let the top dry out some, is better wording. LOL

Last edited by AKmark; January 14, 2017 at 04:04 PM.
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