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#16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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Thought peppers were more "temp"ermental, thus, a little bottom heat or if in a baggie on top of the hot water heater, etc.... never heard of seed starting medium being a huge issue, but cold conditions can curb. IDK - GL |
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#17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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IMO Peppers are not easy like tomatos are.
From what I read, you are correct that peppers need heat to germinate well, and can take a very long time. I looked on line and found a hot pepper guru with a seed starting video. Trying the sprouting in a baggie over a heating pad method. |
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#18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I go through about one bag of Light Warrior seed starting mix each spring, mostly for peppers. It's crazy expensive, but I dilute it a lot. I think it is still worth the money if you are starting expensive hybrid seeds.
If you have a light big enough to make heat, they love that. When I place a big CFL fluorescent right over a flat of seeds, the seeds right under it sprout first, then others follow, moving outward from the warmest point near the light. |
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#19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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peppers do like the heat!
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#20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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FYI this is the resource I used to start seeds. I am assuming this method by passes the type of growing medium.
https://pepperjoe.com/pages/gardenin...pers-from-seed |
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#21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=19958 Funny stuff actually. ![]() |
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#22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Thanks for the link. Read for the info.
I see many web sites that use the same photo as other websites. Far more common practise than it should be. I see tomato seeds that have changed names, and go by two names. I see tomatos that when acquired with no known variety name be assigned a new name. Im not trying to be disrespectful, just how I see some of these issues.... I remember a publication where the wrong photo of a stallion was used. I called the owner, he had not himself realized the wrong photo was used and named on his own promotional information.This is at an at internationally respected breeding farm. At least I can get DNA proof when breeding a mare to a stallion. Not so sure with tomatos.. or peppers...... Just to be clear. I highly value folks that make a real effort to be accurate and correct. Last edited by Black Krim; February 14, 2018 at 08:00 AM. |
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#23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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I take some paper towels, throw some seeds on, put in a thin container, add some water. Put container on a warm place (I put it on the radiator). When they sprout (4-7 days), i put them in any old growing medium, peat based. Better quality is... better of course.
I think peppers are more sensitive to pH then tomatoes, I have had poor quality medium that didn't give that good results, but otherwise I would say less fussy for growing in containers (no magnesium deficiencies, no problems with pots overheating, waterlogging is less of a problem, less medium needed even for huge pepper plants, can be overwintered). |
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#24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Im eager to see if germination and growth will be faster with this method.
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#25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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They'll pop at the same time. I've done comparisons time and time again. All pros and cons considered - germinating in a baggy saves 'heat' space. Sprouted plants do not necessarily need the 80-85F. 70-75F (warm room temperature) is fine for growing. Either method, after sprouting requires the same 'light' space. I'd rather save my space, time, labor and mix for sprouted seeds rather than do all the work up front with unproven seeds and hope for the best. IMO, +1 for baggy germination. ![]() |
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#26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Unclear--once sprouts are planted, they dont need the extra heat?
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#27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Checked seeds. Fat with water. No tails. Heating pad quits after 2 hours. Hmmmmmm
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#28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I think all the heating pads have auto-shutoff now. Maybe if you put it on a timer. that would work? 1:45 on, :15 off
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#29 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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Didn't you just start them 3 days ago? I wouldn't even begin to worry until 2 weeks have past, and wouldn't panic until 3 weeks have past (then I just start some backups). 7 to 20 days has been my range for pepper germination (all types) with the majority germinating in 9-14 days. |
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#30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New England
Posts: 661
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Yes, peppers require patience. I used to be good at fishing so I think I can do this. Seeing the seeds is more intriguing than looking at black soil waiting for a greenish lump to push up.
A grow pad would be useful. I have one. Just not sure where to find it. Things move around in a year. ![]() |
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