Companion Plants &/or Biologicals

[Granny]

Originally Posted by Rena

LOL It may have been for my tomato bisque or making pickles with

I did not find any tomato hornworms on my dill. I did find hundreds of Monarch butterfly caterpillars though. I was kind of surprised as we maintain a Monarch habitat and deliberately leave milkweed growing in the flower beds. Milkweed is supposed to be THE food source for Monarchs. They did not so much as touch it this year.

BTW, you should be aware that if you plant Bacillus thurengis modified corn in your garden that it is poisonous to Monarchs - and other butterflys. http://www.mbsf.org/news.html

[tlcmd]

Thanks for all the input. I did a bit of research and came up with this info. I have written to the Beneficial Insects, etc website for more info and suggestions. And I'm soliciting comments, suggestions, and additions from y'all.

Beneficial insects, mites, and organsims and
Companion Plants. (this is more specific to tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, and bell peppers).

Lady Bugs are the most widely used and best known form of biological pest control. Famous for their control of aphids, Lady Bugs will also consume large numbers of whitefly, mealybugs, scales, mites and many other soft bodied insects as well as bollworm, broccoli worm, cabbage moth and tomato hornworm. Lady Bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in it's lifetime in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in garden and greenhouse settings. Ladybugs are the T. Rex for garden pests.

Lady Beetles (Ladybugs)
(Hippodamia convergens)

Ladybug Beetle The most common of all beneficial insects, these voracious predators feed on aphids, adelgids, chinch bugs, asparagus beetle larvae, thrips, alfalfa weevils, bean thrips, grape root worms, Colorado potato beetle larvae, whitefly, and mites, as well as many other soft-bodied insects and eggs. And they are cost-effective, too.

Ladybugs are shipped to you in the adult stage. Each adult consumes about 5,000 aphids. Within 8 to 10 days of release each female ladybug lays 10 to 50 eggs daily on the underside of leaves. Eggs are usually deposited near prey such as aphids, often in small clusters in protected sites. Larvae grow from about 1 mm to 5 to 6 mm in length and may wander up to 40 feet in search of prey. Ladybug Larvae

In 2 to 5 days the larvae emerge as dark alligator-like flightless creatures with orange spots. The larvae eat 50 to 60 aphids per day. After 21 days the larva attaches itself by the abdomen to a leaf or other surface to pupate and adults emerge in 2 to 8 days depending on the temperature, completing the cycle. Under ideal conditions (temperature 61°F to 82°F; ladybugs won't fly when 55°F or lower) several generations may be produced.


Amblyseius cucumeris
• Taxonomy: Acarina: Phytoseiidae
• Distribution: Europe, Australia, North America,
Asia, ...
• Target pest: Frankliniella occidentalis (Western
flower thrips), Thrips tabaci (The onion thrips),
Tarsonemus pallidus (Cyclamen mite),
Polyphagotarsonemus latus (Broad mite), .
• Development stages: Egg – larva – protonymph –
deutonymph – adult
• Identification: Amblyseius cucumeris is a
transparent pale brown predatory mite of about 0.5
mm (1/50 in) long. Larvae, nymphs and adults are droplet shaped. The eggs are oval and transparent
white and are deposited on hairs on the underside of leaves.
• Mode of action: The nymphs and adults of Amblyseius cucumeris feed on young thrips larvae (mainly
1st instar).


Hypoaspis miles

Hypoaspis miles This tiny (0.5 mm) light-brown mite naturally inhabits the top 1/2" layer of soil where fungus gnats, as well as springtails and thrips pupae dwell. The female Hypoaspis mites lay their eggs in the soil, which hatch in 1-2 days, and the nymphs and adults feed on the soil-dwelling pests. Populations of Hypoaspis include both sexes, but the males are much smaller and rarely seen.

Each Hypoaspis mite will consume 1-5 prey or eggs per day. They survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects aren't available. Their entire life cycle is 7-11 days.

Hypoaspis are used primarily for control of fungus gnat larvae, but they also feed on western flower thrips pupae.

Hypoaspis can also be effective at ridding pet tarantulas, lizards and snakes of pest mites.




1)BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.

2) BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers.

3) BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.

4) CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well:

5) CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.

6) CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly

7) CHRYSANTHEMUMS: (Painted Daisy) C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a picture of the painted daisy from which pyrethrum is extracted.

8) CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for the vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets and carrots. Dill planted with cucumbers by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor. Keep sage away from cukes.

9) MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.

*

French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.
*

Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.

11) NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!

12) PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx for answers. Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.

13) PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until maturity.

14) PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.

15) POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.

16) SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

17) TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with its' high potassium content.

18)TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm.

19) WORMWOODakaSilver Mound ) Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects.Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant.

20) YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer.

[Rena]

Originally Posted by Granny

I did not find any tomato hornworms on my dill. I did find hundreds of Monarch butterfly caterpillars though. I was kind of surprised as we maintain a Monarch habitat and deliberately leave milkweed growing in the flower beds. Milkweed is supposed to be THE food source for Monarchs. They did not so much as touch it this year.

BTW, you should be aware that if you plant Bacillus thurengis modified corn in your garden that it is poisonous to Monarchs - and other butterflys. http://www.mbsf.org/news.html

I am doing a butterfly garden with the kids (again) and we will do more dill. I know they love my parsley. I plant almost a 4 foot row of it. When I lived in Colorado the milk weed grew wild along the Colorado River. We would collect Monarch cats there and wait for them to hatch. I loved it!!

[Granny]

tlcmd, I am still wading through that doctoral thesis mentioned above, link in post #14

Re your #1 Basil as a companion to tomatoes, the author of the doctoral thesis particularly looked at this one because belief in it is so widespread. He found no statistically significant improvement in the tomatoes (including their flavor - blind taste test) and a definite decrease in basil production, particularly later in the season.

Lots of the rest of your list looks like it came straight from Carrots Love Tomatoes or Cunningham's book, which is a rehash of Carrots - very obvious now that I am wading through Carrots while laying around on the heating pad, for lack of anything better to read.

At least some of the things on your list are right up there among the very last things I would want in my vegetable garden. Mints and related herbs like oregano are perennials and they will literally take over - they spread underground by runners.

Still wading through the doctoral thesis, will post a synopsis when I'm done with the thing.

[jermen]

hello granny,
i can't believe it...but carolyn said it first...i love your posts...
i have nothing to say about campanion growing, it's hard enough to till the leaves in, plan the "this years map of the garden" and keep it on track. but like you said "home schooling has it's advantages"...my son helps me, and we have a good time doing it!
jeri

[Granny]

Originally Posted by jermen

hello granny,
i can't believe it...but carolyn said it first...i love your posts...
i have nothing to say about campanion growing, it's hard enough to till the leaves in, plan the "this years map of the garden" and keep it on track. but like you said "home schooling has it's advantages"...my son helps me, and we have a good time doing it!
jeri

We actually use it as a big part of our curriculum - the "science lab" so to speak. Besides doing the shoveling and heavy lifting I cannot do anymore, the kiddo has learned about genetics, learned different ways to reproduce plants, some microbiology. Her one complaint has been that last year we grew all of our seedlings out here in the schoolroom on a long table and the windowsills. Watering became a real chore, especially since we also had to shuffle everybody around so they all got their turn in the best light. I guess we'll be building a light stand in the next couple of weeks.

What she doesn't know is that if she wants those watermelons, we are STILL going to have to shuffle things around. I did buy a bunch of flats to make it quicker though.

[tlcmd]

Granny,
I really appreciate your efforts and comments. The chief problem with the information on companion planting seems to be the passing along of "opinions" without any confirmation or research. In checking some of the companion plant listings (which I omitted), I found opposite observations, none with any verified scientific foundation. Hence my posting on this board. My small (1400sq ft) garden generally does very well and is of such size that when I lay it out properly, my tiller can keep any non-mulched areas weeded with a minimum of time and effort. My chief problems are TSWV and very late season powerdy mildew on cukes and squashes.

I have very few pests as "Ralph", my resident black snake, keeps them well controlled, and keeps the birds away from adjacent figs and blueberries.

I'm adding more disease resistant plants this year and researching ways to prevent TSWV. No doubt something else will take the place of the problems which I solve.

Mint doesn't bother me as I am a sour mash bourbon drinker, so fresh mint in a julep on a hot afternoon is a blessing. And mint leaves sprinkled around the outside and inside of the house prevents ants and mice infestation (this one is factual).

Have you or anyone else any comments regarding the use of sprinkling vs soaking? Some of the information I found suggests that using soaker hoses will prevent mildew and other problems; contrary information simply says watering in the AM and letting the sun dry off the foliage is equally effective. Here is probably another example of varying "opinion" rather than sound research.

I'm awaiting (I hope) a note back from the Beneficial insects, mites, etc website with information on their biologicals in tomato gardening.

One would think that there would be more information and prevention of TSWV since it does so much economic damage to peanuts and tomatoes, not to mention the effects on flowering ornamentals.

[Granny]

further comments for tlcmd -

OK, I am still wading through that doctoral thesis. This is what I've concluded about the basil & tomato thing -

Cunningham swears by basil & tomato, yet the gentleman who experimented with it found that the tomatoes overshadowed the basil as the plants got larger, resulting in a greatly decreased basil harvest. There are some obvious differences though -

The experimenter laid out his plants in standard rows, one row of tomatoes, one of basil, etc. Cunningham uses a different layout. Also, Cunningham seems to buy most of her plants rather than start them herself from seed. The experimenter used all one variety of tomato started at the University greenhouses - same for basil. I suspect that the difference lies most especially in the particular varieties of basil and tomatoes chosen. A smaller tomato plant combined with a larger basil (some of them grow to 3' +) might very well be beneficial to both. When you choose an "average" basil that grows 12-15" tall and combine that with a larger tomato plant, you might very well get the kind of overshadowing that would lead to a greatly reduced basil harvest.

I think that one of the biggest problems that we are seeing is that gardening is an area that is really an art rather than a science. It is virtually impossible to duplicate the parameters of the "experiment" even from one day to the next, to say nothing of year to year or place to place. Add in hundreds of thousands of potential plant combinations and it is simply impossible to get reproducible results.

RE watering: Everything that I have read in recent years says that you should water in the morning, and yet my grandfather, who raised a couple of acres of veggies every year of his life with great success, habitually watered in the evening.

One of the arguments that I see against sprinkling is that the leaves can become sun burned if you water during the heat of the day. Others recommend blasting your plants with a stream of water to knock certain bugs off them. If you travel out to the Southwest, the commercial truck farm operation run by the Navajo Nation uses an overhead sprinkler system. (At least it did the last time I saw it a few years back.)

I "garden" a half-acre plot that lies at the high end of our property. There is no water up there, so it has to come up by hose (I'm not carrying it!) - and that greatly decreases the available water pressure at the house.

We did look at a drip irrigation system. I think that if I did not have the time to stand there with the hose or move it around the field and so on, I might invest in one, though I am also fairly certain that I would put it on a timer to water during hours that we were all asleep so as not to interfere with other usage of the water.

Mint doesn't bother me either - in the herb garden where it belongs. I have a collection of mints there. I really don't want to have to argue with the stuff to plant the peas though. One of the things that I found the most frustrating about Cunningham's book is that everything is so mixed up. It might make it so that harmful bugs can't find what they are looking for, but it would also take me forever to plant and there would be no guarantee that I could find what I was looking for come harvest season.

What I'm going to do is pick the brains of my fellow gardeners, read a book or two, then do what seems sensible to me without spending a fortune. A prime example is sprinkle vs. soak. That soaker hose is not cheap and my garden is big enough that I would have to lay down a system rather than move the thing around, so I would be looking at hundreds of dollars initial investment. I can buy a sprinkler for $10 or so.

I've already decided to do some pretty baskets of smaller tomatoes to place on the deck, by the stairs, etc. I will probably plant some basil in some of those to "fill in" - but I'm not going to plant it up by the Neves.

I had thought that I might use B. thuringis this year, but after reading about the GM corn that includes the BT toxin being poisonous to Monarchs, I want to see some more research before I plaster my garden with it. On the other hand, I have no intention of losing my entire crop of something in order to stay 100% organic.

[maupin]

My two cents (as an organic grower since 1992)

Watering tomato foliage is an open invitation to disease. Water the roots. Mulch so that rain does not splash up soil borne diseases on the leaves. Prune off the low lying leaves so none touch the soil.

I dug a small pond on my farm and water using a sump pump from the pond. Do you have pond possibilities in the high end of your property?

I make and use aerated compost tea as a foliar feed. I add some baking soda (others use milk) as an anti fungal. Generally speaking, the better your soil is, the stronger your plant can withstand disease and pests. When I first boght my farm and made it organic (the seller was not organic), the first two years were awful. Bad bugs did not get sprayed and tore up my garden. Previous spraying had killed the good bugs and sent the birds to other locales.

But by the 3rd year, things had gotten back in balance. Good bugs and birds appeared and ate the bad bugs. (Keeping a black oil sunflower feeder full year round attracted a lot of birds.) And my continually improved soil (made one ton of compost each year and tilled it in) provided a better medium for sturdier plants to withstand the ever-decreasing threat from pests.

I have a neighbor that has a 3 sided cage 2 feet high, two feet wide, and 12 feet long. He puts the open side down on the garden path and leaves his chicken in it. He calls it his chicken tractor. Swears the chicken will eat its weight in pests every day and leave the manure behind, which he adds to the compost pile instead of leaving hot in the garden. Moves the cage every morning to a new row.

I companion planted peas and tomatoes one year--even inoculated the peas. My theory was that the peas planted in March would fix nitrogen for the tomatoes planted in early May. This theory failed, as the peas were actually taking up nutrient from the soil setting fruit at the very time I planted my tomatoes. Tomatoes planted without a legume companion grew much faster that year. When tilled under, the peas provided a terrific burst of nitrogen. But not before.

[shelleybean]

Speaking as a gardener who has lost 80% of her tomatoes to TSWV in the past, if there were any chance at all that basil would deter thrips, I'd try it. I would not expect the basil to thrive in that kind of shade so for my actual "crop" of basil, I think I'd have several other plants located elsewhere in the yard. But since basil seed is cheap, I'd sure be willing to try tucking a few plants in between the tomatoes. Thanks, all!

[tlcmd]

Shellybean,
Lat year I used BHN 444 (determinate) and Bolseno (indeterminate) varieties (seeds from Juhnny's Select Seeds) which are TSWV resistant. Adjacent non-resistant plants had TSWV by September, but these 2 varieties showed no signs of it and were killed by our first heavy frost in November. Also will plant non-resistant plants within the resistant ones. I'm planning to repeat my same tomato varieties this year and go after thrips much more aggressively. Thrips are poor fliers and usually are carried by wind. people, pets, equipment, etc.

[Raymondo]

This has been an interesting thread. I do companion plant but do it to use space more efficiently - leeks and spinach for example. I can't say I have ever noticed any difference in quality or quantity, or pest numbers or disease levels. I suppose that what I do is more akin to the permaculture notion of guild planting. Carrots and lettuce is a combo that works for me too but I think it's because of the nature of the plants - lettuce has a fairly shallow root system compared to the carrot so there's not a lot of root competition, and the lettuce don't mind the shade provided by the large, lacy carrot foliage. It looks good too. Of course, for it to work, you have to time it correctly. Carrots seem to take a while to establish so I let them do their thing for a while before putting lettuce in. I doubt that these practices would be suitable for a market grower. Harvesting from mixed beds is more time consuming.

[robin303]

What the heck does TSWV mean. Yes I'm a big dummy.

[Suze]

Originally Posted by robin303

What the heck does TSWV mean.

TSWV = Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus. Frequently transmitted by thrips. I haven't had any problems with it here, or when I lived in the metroplex (knock on wood), but it is already a problem for some in the panhandle.

[robin303]

Thanks Suze, Guess we shouldn't worry to much there are only 5,000 species.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrips