A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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August 29, 2014 | #31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Anmore, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,970
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Good article about pH and liming: http://gardenrant.com/?guest_post=pl...ased-on-the-ph
It is in line with my philosophy. Drew, I did not consider your comments rude, I should have been making my point more clear about blueberries and Ca. It was not a pravtical example, as I have no idea how to limit Ca uptake by blueberries when Ca is abundant in high pH soils. Tatiana
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August 29, 2014 | #32 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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I got a second look at this snake a few minutes ago and he seems to be calm and non-agressive. I just hope he's not waiting to eat chicks. I've lost them to big snakes before, even when the bars of the cage are quite small. One thing I really like about peafowl is that they do a great job of eating snakes and rodents. We also have three cats, although only one is probably hunting as the others are pretty old. They are free to go in and out the electronic doggy door. |
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August 29, 2014 | #33 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,818
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Back to lurking
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August 29, 2014 | #34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Yes, grafting is another way to have a variety of fruit. Amazing what you can do. I have a 4 in one Pluot tree with 4 cultivars grafted onto a rootstock. Hard to balance them so one doesn't over take the tree, but very possible with pruning to keep them all the same size. I never grafted but I'm going to practice on a grape vine next spring.
I agree about the lime treatment, good idea, although usually these reports give good advice. Yet some advice was not good IMHO. Boy you do have poor soil, good luck with it. You will learn a lot, and you know the journey is the prize. |
August 29, 2014 | #35 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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With blueberries for 2 years I had them in a rich organic loam, but they failed to grow, just sat there for 2 years. I looked for help and discovered Garden Web. Upon advice from blueberry farm owners, my plants started growing extremely well. New branches, more berries. And basically all i did was change the PH. So I have to rely on my own expierence. I'm not changing a thing on how I grow blueberries. Here are some I added this year. I wanted to add some Southern Highbush. I left them in pots as I have to move in 3 years or so. i want to take them with me. I bought these this spring. This is first year growth. I will transplant to bigger pots this fall. From left to right Southmoon, Lagacy, and Cara's Choice. I just picked the last berries off of Chandler today. A NHB. This is it's 2nd summer. Soil PH is controlled with sulfur, and sulfuric acid in the water used. Results are amazing. Last edited by drew51; August 29, 2014 at 01:59 PM. |
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August 29, 2014 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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This is interesting:
http://www.soil.ncsu.edu/publication...asics_12-3.pdf |
August 29, 2014 | #37 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Drew- how low do you keep the pH for your blackberries? I'm interested in trying them. We have tons of wild blackberries but the fruit wasn't very good and they are in many of our walkways.
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August 29, 2014 | #38 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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They like a sandy soil or a dark soil that is in between limestone slabs and upheavals. In these pots of soil they are fantastically sweet. Well drained and just enough water so they will grow. The wild huckleberry likes these conditions also the berries are kin to the blueberry. Some of the best berries I have had came of of Heavner mountain in southeast Oklahoma. The soil was of a redish hue with a covering of hardwoods and pine. Worth |
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August 30, 2014 | #39 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Thanks,Worth. I don't think the soil is tight. We have mostly sand. It could though, be severely lacking in nutrients.
I wanted to mention something else. The soil samples were taken at about 4-6" deep. In most parts of our property, there is a very thick layer of mulch with a lovely black layer of compost between the mulch and dirt. Since I dug down into the sand according to the instructions for the sample, this layer wasn't in the sample. I'm I know that the mulch and that thin layer of compost is beneficial but how does that count into the soil sample? Are these tests only designed for more conventional farming where soil is turned with organic matter twice a year? The organic layer isn't on top of the septic area, only because that was dug and then smoothed out just a month ago when they did the septic field. I will be doing a cover crop on that area this winter, something that can provide lots of organic matter and maybe a legume like favas or clover as well. |
August 30, 2014 | #40 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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August 31, 2014 | #41 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Scott, let me know when you find out more about that test.
Apparently my soil is either quite compacted or there is such a thick layer of roots that I can't get to budge. I've been trying to till in a thick layer of rotted pine needles and leaves just to get a good start but my big, rear tined tiller is just scraping the surface. I always thought sand didn't pack? I have a bunch of strawberries and my fall garden to get planted. I think I'm just going to go right into my thick mulch layer with the strawberries as if I was lasagna gardening. I haven't decided how to plant the direct sown seeds, maybe toss a layer of garden soil on top to make a finer seed bed? I sprinkled a small amount of lime out, since I'm 0.6 points too low, even for strawberries. I'm going to cover crop the area that the septic field was put into as well as the excess vegetable garden area. I found this article fascinating: http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/...cs142p2_033488 |
August 31, 2014 | #42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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My husband and I dumped two huge pickup truck loads of decomposed pine straw and leaves on the garden yesterday and today. I still have about one more truckload of leaves to go.
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September 9, 2014 | #43 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Next day she was feeling better and off hunting lizards and frogs. She was totally normal looking after 5 days of keflex. Thank god it was the really big dog, rather than my 8 pound Papillon. I'm pretty sure she wouldn't have fared as well, especially on a weeknight without me knowing a vet in this little, rural area. |
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September 9, 2014 | #44 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Quote:
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September 9, 2014 | #45 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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What a difference mulch makes! In the area that I've had covered with old leaves, horse manure, shavings and pine needles since beginning of August, I have a dark layer of loam and plenty of earthworms. Other areas have light tan sand and no life.
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