Transplanting

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by AlittleSalt

I need to move this cactus plant because it's in the way. I looked up info, and the first site I brought up was an EBAY site (Not sure if it'll post) http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEXAS-STICKE...-/180976360037

I used to live in Crowley, Texas as a child. Cacti is everywhere there - or was - it's becoming a city. $6.25 per unrooted pad with $6.50 shipping!!! And that was 5 years ago.

Just prune the thing back is what I would do.

Originally Posted by Labradors2

Get Worth to help you

Linda

You need tongs shovels and a team to transplant cacti.
One time in the Marines we transplanted a big agave and loaded it up in a big truck.
It took about ten of us with long shovels lifting to do it.
Yes in the Marines I was the unofficial plant and grounds person with a crew.
As long as we kept the place looking nice we didn't have to do stupid work or report to anyone.

Worth

[Worth1]

Looks like the bare root okra transplants are out of the woods.
Only lost one leaf.
Worth
IMG_20170517_43787.jpg

[Jimbotomateo]

Originally Posted by AlittleSalt

I think one of the easiest things to dig up and transplant is/are onions. Certain cacti are almost foolproof to start a new plant by just picking an ear/leaf and planting it in the ground.

Did you know that all true cactus species are native only to the Americas?

Whereabouts mostly Salt. I've seen em all over but I would think a lot of them would be purchased and planted. Wonder what kind of weather extremes they can endure? . Gets pretty chilly in the desert with the inversion factor.. Jimbo

[BettaPonic]

When should I transplant this? It is an air layer of a Lizzano. Lizzanos are a dwarf semi determinate variety.

[dmforcier]

Where are you, NOVA Scotia? NOrthern VA?

When to transplant depends on what's going outside, not the size of the plant.

I like to transplant them when the sun is down (at least a couple hours without any sun, but ideally longer). Sun can stunt or kill plants with damaged roots. Giving my transplants potassium helps them absorb water, and it seems to help the roots form. Putting a milk jug over the transplants helps the plants to do better, too, if it's not too hot (I think it's the humidity inside the jug, the lack of wind, and the UV filtration that helps). Protecting transplants from insects can be important (especially for very small plants); I haven't done this a lot, yet, but I may change my ways. Putting a cuff around them may be all that is needed.

Originally Posted by Worth1

Not that it matters but my intention was to get and give information on just how much care is needed to have a successful transplant.
On various types of plants and how to be successful with said variety.
You can pull okra up by the roots and be successful.
You try that with cucumbers and you will kill them.
Worth

I've done that with many tomatoes, and had success, but it's probably ideal not to do that. (You can probably get an earlier harvest without pulling/easing them out.) I have a feeling that plants can become acclimatized to this sort of thing over generations of doing the same thing, though. Same with growing as cuttings (without a taproot; i.e. plant a seed, take a cutting of the plant, grow a fruit from the cutting, save seeds, grow a seed, take a cutting, grow a fruit from the cutting, and so on for generations). Plants that are used to growing from cuttings (over more than one generation) might be more capable of having their roots disturbed, too (but that's a guess).

Cucumbers are so easy to germinate from direct-seeding that I stopped trying to grow them indoors early (the transplants I tried were too old, and they didn't survive). But yeah, they don't like disturbed roots, it seems. Muskmelons can handle being divided instead of thinned, without dying (but I don't know if it impacts the harvest). As an experiment, I tried it once with a bunch of Prescott Fond Blanc melons that were initially in one container. The tomatillos smothered them eventually; so, that's why I don't know how it impacts the harvest (I did get I think a couple fruits from among the smothered melons, though). Muskmelons can handle at least three plants per hole/hill, too (that doesn't seem to negatively affect the harvest).

That's great to know about okra.

[oakley]

This is the first year i have pushed things a bit. It has been a challenge but i asked for it.
All my winter micros headed for the compost are lined up on the deck and pumping out
fruit, in May. I've even started some F5's.

I've been using the (horrid) peat pods for some cucurbits, squash, summer/winter, just
a couple weeks ahead to get something in the ground not hit by birds and cut worms...

Same for dwarf sunflowers i usually see in July i started a tray and they are in some
beds about to bloom. Using the same peat pods.

If i have the time in the cold snow covered early Spring, i'll push it for some fun.

[BettaPonic]

Originally Posted by dmforcier

Where are you, NOVA Scotia? NOrthern VA?

When to transplant depends on what's going outside, not the size of the plant.

Northern Virginia, but I was born in Nova Scotia. I am more curious if everyone thinks the plant is big enough? I will put the plant out soon thank you. Thank you for the help.

[dmforcier]

Interesting juxtaposition.

I'd say no, it's not too small if it will have some protection from the wind. Have you hardened it off yet?

[BettaPonic]

I planted it, but something dug it up.

[dmforcier]

Well that's depressing. If you still have it, put it back in some dirt. Tomatoes are tough as old boots. It'll grow.