What kind/type of irrigation do you use and why?

[HCWithAltitude]

I've been playing around with my garden plan and the irrigation. I've gotten down to the plan below. My questions for the moment is 1/4" PC drip line or 1/2" drip line for the straight runs, and what flow rate on the emitters for the raised bed & down at the peas? The drip line runs (dashed lines) are ~ 19 ft. The mainline runs are ~ 18 ft along the North side (top) and ~17 ft in the beds. Am I even close to reality with this?

You can ignore the random emitter by the squash.

Thanks!

HWA

garden irrigation.jpg

[Cole_Robbie]

This is not the answer to your question, but I had the thought that maybe if you used the gray plastic electrical conduit instead of white pvc, it would last a lot longer in the sun. I think the gray stuff has UV inhibitors in it. The white stuff was never meant to be in the sun. If you can do something to shade it, then it will last a lot longer.

[Worth1]

I cant read anything on the drawing can you explain it more.

Okay I tilted my screen back I can read it now.LOL

[Worth1]

Okay from what I can tell you are spacing the tomatoes at 4 feet and the peppers around2 feet.
Ditch the whole idea of 1/4 inch drip line and buy 1/2 drip line at about 1 gallon an hour for each emitter.
In the raised beds from what I think to are branching off with drip emitters from some kind of pipe.

So what you first need to do is get a 200 mesh filter on the head end of the drip line or you can call anything you install trash after awhile.
Second ditch the idea of the PVC if that is what you are using and go with a 1/2 drip tubing (it has no emitters) in the raised beds.
Off this tubing you can run 1/4 inch drip tubing with adjustable emitters on stakes to each place you want.
One the main header coming from the faucet you can use either 1/2 drip tubing or 3/4 PVC.
Whic ever one you use you will need to get what they call a universal fitting for it.
One will have the tubing fitting on one end and a 1/2 pipe thread on the other to go into a 3/4 X 3/4 X 1/2 tee at each location.

The other is just a tubing tee and it will allow you to use the drip tubing and the drip line as long as they are listed for 17 MM drip line and 1/2 drip tubing.

That is the was I would go.
At each branch put a valve so you can control the water going through each branch line line.

the adjustable drippers in the raised beds can be shut off on their own or you can get 1/4 barb valves for these too.

You can also go to the drip thread to get some ideas and the parts you may want to use.

I will post the link in a minute.
Here it is.
Look towards the end to get some ideas.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=33979

I see you have already been there.LOL

Worth

[HCWithAltitude]

Okay, based on suggesttions (thanks Worth), research, and a little math, here's what it looks like I need:

200' 1/2" PC dripline (dashed line) brown would be nice.
50ish' 1/2" supply tubing (solid line) brown would be nice
20' 1/4 supply tubing for emitters (skinny solid line)
30 emitters
1 elbow
12 hose ends
12 valves (maybe)
the filter/flush valve/pressure regulator/anti-siphon/backflow/universal adapter complex to attach to the hose bib
punch tool
some goof plugs
stakes - no clue how many

What am I missing?

HWA

[Worth1]

What about the tees?

[Worth1]

And the the 1/4 inch critters to punc into the 1/2 tubing for the melons?

[HCWithAltitude]

Originally Posted by Worth1

And the the 1/4 inch critters to punc into the 1/2 tubing for the melons?

So I see a couple of options with that. Would these http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_i...ion_parts/1284 work better/be more secure than the plain 1/4" barbs? Or is it just a bigger pin to use?

Not sure what I would need tees for.

HWA

[Worth1]

I have no idea.
I thought you were going to run off a header.
That's what I thought you would need the tees for.
My phone is about dead and I am outside.
I cant tell what is in the link.

Worth

[Worth1]

Okay now I see what they are.
I have just used the barbs and never had a problem with them.
Some have been in use for around 8 years now.

Worth

[HCWithAltitude]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Okay now I see what they are.
I have just used the barbs and never had a problem with them.
Some have been in use for around 8 years now.

Worth

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I think part of what I don't understand is the proper use of terminology in this arena. Since I live in a world of jargon and acronyms (gov't acronyms - the worst kind!) on a daily basis as work, I can see where I am probably missing something. I think I need 1/2" barbs to go from the 1/2" drip tubing to the 1/2" drip line, and 1/4" barbs to attach the 1/4" tubing from the 1/2" drip tubing to the emitters for the melons and down by the peas. Am I close? Still not sure where the tees come into play.

I appreciate your help learning about all of this!

HWA

[Worth1]

Im in the house and on my computer now.

The tee would be what you use to connect from the main 1/2 inch drip tubing line to the Drip lines.

I posted a picture of the universal one on the other thread.
for the life of me I dont know why they have so many sizes.
This one will adapt to both the drip tubing which has no holes to the drip line that has holes.
As for the drip emitters for the melons I suggest you get the ones on a spike not the ones that go directly into the 1/4 inch tubing.
I have done it both ways and the one on the spike is far better.

If you want I can come up with a cut list of what you will need I dont mind doing it.
I do get my stuff from sprinkler warehouse though.
But you can get it from many places.
I need to find out more about the barbed fittings for 1/2 inch and see what fits what.



Worth

[HCWithAltitude]

Worth -

Thank you so much for the information you have shared - this has been a great learning experience. Based on that I have made some changes to my plan, adding elbows and tees.



Will it work to put the on-off valves after the tees? Is the 12" spacing on the dripline emitters going to be sufficient, or should I track down the 9"?

Next bit of research - timers!

Because some have asked, you can make your own garden map, which will handily show the different layers of plants, irrigations, etc., here - http://gardenplanner.seedsavers.org/

HWA

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by HCWithAltitude

Worth -

Thank you so much for the information you have shared - this has been a great learning experience. Based on that I have made some changes to my plan, adding elbows and tees.



Will it work to put the on-off valves after the tees? Is the 12" spacing on the dripline emitters going to be sufficient, or should I track down the 9"?

Next bit of research - timers!

Because some have asked, you can make your own garden may, which will handily show the different layers of plants, irrigations, etc., here - http://gardenplanner.seedsavers.org/

HWA

Yes you would want to put the valves after the tee on the drip lines and one after the elbow on the last run.
There are reasons for this and I will explain them in detail.
1 I am a valve fanatic I love valves placed in the right locations.
Darn it started to rain and need to bring my motorcycle in be right back.
I'm back.
I cannot tell you how many times I wished I had a valve so I didnt have to cut the water off to the the whole place.

The same goes for your system.
Lets say something happens to a line and it gets cut.
All you have to do is simply turn off the valve until you can repair it.

Next lets say you want to shut down a section of the garden and not water it.
I cant think of an easier way than a valve.

So in my opinion each branch line needs a valve.

I think the 12 inch spacing will work just fine.
As for timers you have two choices.
Irrigation controller
With it you could put a solenoid at each branch line and control how much water you get for different plants.
Pros you can automate everything and you dont have to be hanging out turning valves.
Cons more parts more complicated and more expensive to set up.
The other is a simple battery operated faucet timer that works very well also.
And might be the best choice for now.
Reason, less complicated way less parts and easy to install.
Plus you can get an idea of how much water each row needs.
After you know that you can simply turn down or shut off valves where there is too much water.
No timer or controller at all.
Pros even less expensive and no parts you manually turn on the valve.
Cons you will forget and leave it on I know I did a few times.

Thanks for the link I will check it out.
You are always more than welcome.

Worth

[HCWithAltitude]

I think I have this pretty much figured out, and might be able to fit this project into my budget. Still have a couple of questions.


Here's what I think I need, sitting in my Sprinker Warehouse shopping cart:

2 x DIG A1-112P 17mm Pressure Comp. Brown Drip Line - (12 in. Emitter Spacing) (.95 GPH) (100 feet)

1 x DIG 31-016B 1/2 in. Brown Polyethylene Tubing (.570 ID x .670 OD) (60 PSI) (100 feet)

30 x Antelco A30625 1 GPH Pressure Comp. Spike Drip Emitter W/ 1/4 in. Barb

2 x DIG 15-056 1/2 in. Universal Nut Lock Elbow

15 xDIG 15-057 1/2 in. Universal Nut Lock Tee OR should it be DIG 15-058 1/2 in. Universal Swivel Tee to attach valve to?

15 x Antelco A49035 16 mm Barb x 1/2 in. MPT Drip Tubing Valve to fit into tees?

1 x DIG SWB09D - 3/4 in FHT Hose Bib Drip Connect Kit w/Hose End Timer - this is the whole hose bib shebang. Can I put this on a brass Y, so I can run a regular hose off th other side?

2 x DIG 16-022 Strip of 10 Goof Plugs for 1/4 in. Tubing

1 x Antelco A50048 Drip Irrigation Tubing Pocket Punch Tool

15 x DIG 16-021 1/2 in. Hose End

30 x DIG 25-001 1/4 in. Long Barb For Drip Line - to plug emitter lines into 1/2" supply line

2 x Rain Bird NFT-LS6 6 in. Tie-Down Stakes for 1/2 in. OD Tubing (25 pk)

Questions:

- are the tees and the valves compatible?
- what kind of valve to shut off the 1/2" supply line to the raised beds?

HWA