Search for 5:1:1 mix details.

[JohnMich]

I read somewhere that there was a basic 5:1:1 soilless mix which would be suitable for as a starter for a rank beginner at SWC gardening like me. I am starting on Ray's earthtainer system (brilliant!) and am now organising the beg, borrowing and stealing of components.

Could someone point me in the right direction please? I have tried googling and searching but google gets me 5 1 1 fertiliser and search here a squillion replies!

In case its relevant our climate in SE Queensland equates to Hawaii.(Beautiful one day, perfect the next!)

Regards, John
PS: This is a great site and I can already taste SWC tomatoes.

[Woodchuck]

I think you may be looking for "Al's Mix".
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/...265978.html?34

You can also learn a lot more about this type of mix by searching Bonsai pine bark based soil mix or similar terms.

<Woodchuck>

[rnewste]

John,

Be sure you are using the latest Rev 1.5 EarthTainer instructions and components:

http://www.tomatofest.com/pdfs/Earth...tion-Guide.pdf

Holler if you need any help!

Ray

[JohnMich]

Thanks Woodchuck you are spot on. But I am fascinated that Tapla didn't respond when I asked the same question on Gardenweb.

Thanks Ray for the reminder but I had already ditched the old version and saved the new.

Project has slowed a bit, it's mid-summer here and rest of garden is demanding a lot of time.

[feldon30]

5:1:1 sounds odd for tomatoes, but I have not grown in EarthTainers before.

[geeboss]

Remembered seeing this posting by Al concerning his mix and SWC.

Posted by tapla z5b-6a MI (My Page) on Sun, Mar 30, 08 at 22:45

"Hi, Mark. On occasion, I've placed the 5:1:1 mix (when it was completely dry & hydrophobic) in a shallow pan of water overnight. By morning, the top of the soil was moist, so I know it wicks well. Still, I'm told by others with more experience growing in SWCs, that it may not wick fast enough to supply immature plants with water or to keep the fertilizer strip wet. Perhaps JaG or another experienced poster can come along with more help. FWIW - the mix with 2 parts perlite will be a little less efficient in the wicking dept. In a SWC, you might wish to up the peat and add a small amount of vermiculite to the soil. I'm guessing that something like:
7 bark fines
2 peat
1 perlite
1 vermiculite
1 tbsp garden lime/gallon
would probably be a very good mix for SWCs.
For a fertilizer program, I would use something with a 3:1:2 ratio like MG 24-8-16 for the first month after potting, then switch to a 1:2:2 ratio like 5-10-10 or even a 1:1:1 blend such as the 14-14-14 you're using. Please be sure your plants are getting the secondary macronutrients and all the minors. Ca and Mg are particularly important.

Good luck, Mark.

Al"

[creister]

John, for another idea,
you may want to look up Howard Garrett's potting mix. It is in the libraray section at dirtdoctor.com under potting mix.

[JohnMich]

Thanks for the comments and clues you blokes.

Feldon, if I have it right the whole idea in the SWC is that the mix is only there to hold the plant upright and to supply water at the required rate - designing which appears to be an art rather than a science. Note that Ray, the SWC DIY guru, has redesigned his SWC to reduce the rate of wicking.

The catch seems to me that in RAY's case he is using a specific brand mix (MG) but other mixes may not wick at same rate as that - so what is needed is some way of assessing the RATE of wicking of any mix and then relating that to what we need in the SWC. Or have I just confused the issue?

In the note from Al above he talks about putting a dry mix in a pan and noting that it was wet on top in the morning.

Perhaps there might be an idea there. Any bright ideas?

[rnewste]

John,

You are absolutely correct that the type of potting mix you use does impact the wicking action. I am not a hydrology Engineer - - just doing it by trial and error, so other experts here should be asked of their recommended mix composition. At the end of the day, filling a few 'Tainers with your mix and using a Moisture Meter to read relative moisture will be your best bet.

Just make sure that as you add 1" or 2" layers of the mix into the 'Tainer to thoroughly wet the mix, as if you get dry pockets, this will inhibit the wicking process to the plants.

Ray

[sprtsguy76]

This is some broccoli in an 18 gallon Rubber tote that contains A1 5-1-1 mix. It spent two days out in the pour rain before I moved it to shelter. While the very top part of the mix has dried out the mix just below the surface has stayed moist. But I dont think that an extra part of peat would such a bad idea for tomatoes. Sorry if the pictures dont come out this is my first time trying to post pics here TV.

<a href="http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture016-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture016-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture017-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture017-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture016-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...cture016-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[JohnMich]

Two things -

Ray, what am I looking for on the moisture meter dry, moist or wet? I guess the metering has to be fairly close to the soil surface because that's where the fertiliser strip is, or can we get around that problem by putting the fertiliser into the water at say the rate recommended for watering can applications?

I gather tomatoes need a fairly high rate of wicking in hot weather. We get high 20C to over 30C consistently during summer.

Creister!! As if I didn't have enough on my plate and then you come along and steer me to the dirtdoctor.com site!!! What a brilliant site! Many an hour will be spent going through this. The compost tea idea has got me all a twitter to help my potted ferns along.
There aren't enough hours in the day already.

[rnewste]

John,

Ideally, you want the Moisture Meter to run in the "MOIST" mid-range. These meters, while not really all that accurate, provide a relative reference, and that is how I use it. (You can see this 'Tainer is running too Wet).



Additionally, if you really want to optimize your custom mix for tomatoes, you will want to use a pH Meter. For tomatoes, a reading in the 6.5 range is considered ideal:



These are relatively inexpensive devices that you can find in Hardware and Garden stores.

Ray

[JohnMich]

Never fear Sportsguy the photos came out brilliantly. I reckon you have no problem with cats defecating in your garden - not with those pugs about!

Is everything you show growing in the same Al's 5.1.1 mix? If so you've basically solved my problem because the range of stuff you are growing is very wide and looks great. My only questions really are what are you using as fertiliser and what is the photo of a yellowing leaf about?

Thanks Ray your points re: metering are noted.

[sprtsguy76]

John- No, not everything I grow in containers is with A1's mix as it is pretty new to me as well. However I did have limited, but great success with A1's mix in SWC's late last year with some peas and carrots (added one more part peat for the carrots). As far as the ferts go, which I'm new to also is the same stuff A1 recommends which is the Foilage Pro 9-3-6 with all the micro's from Dyna-Gro. Its of course a chemical fert. and I only use it in my containers but so far so good. Dont worry about the yellow leaf, I think that was an inground German Red Strawberry tomato plant that got cooked in the heat (LOL). Best of luck to you.

Damon