Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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December 7, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 31
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Pot Size Advice
In preparation for 2011, I have several small cell seed starting inserts that fit into a sandard 1020 trays. When it is time to transplant, I have new inserts that measure 2.5" w X 2.5" L and are 2 1/4" deep. Will these transplant inserts be large enough to accomodate my tomatoes without having to transplant again (8-10 week plant)? I'm a little concerned about the depth and wanted to hear from the board.
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December 7, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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I would go with at least a 4" square or round pot. The 2.5" seem a little small when talking 8-10 week seedlings. Ami
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December 7, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 196
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That sounds a bit small to me. I have used that size for things I plant out within 4 weeks or so, spinach, kolhrabi etc. For tomatoes I pot up to 16oz silo cups within two weeks of germination and leave them in there until planting out 6 - 8 weeks later, at which point they are starting to outgrow the cups.
Ginny |
December 7, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,296
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I plant seeds into 1"x1"x1 1/2" , 72 count flats. Then transplant into 2"x2"x2 1/2" containers (either individual, 4,6 or 8 pks , whatever I have). This seems to be large enough. I do transplant some into larger containers and that works fine also. I don't really worry about root bound plants in a 6, 8 or ten week period; I just spread the roots out when planting. Those tomatoes going to family or friends sometimes get transplanted again into cups or other pots and don't seem to suffer.
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
December 7, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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I use 18 oz. Solo cups. I think you can get 250 for around $5 at Costco. You need to drill holes in the bottoms of the cups. The ones that are square on the bottoms are good because they don't fall over as easily as round ones.
http://www.solopromotion.com/squared.shtml |
December 7, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 581
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I hadn't seen the Solo Squared ones before. I like them, as they combine the advantages squared (30% more soil per inch) and round (no hard corners for roots to deal with). I will give them a try. Thanks.
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December 8, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pearl of the Orient
Posts: 333
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I use this kind of seedling tray, it got 50 X 2" cells. Based on experience with tomato seedlings, just 4 weeks after sprouting, the root ball is already compacted.
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December 9, 2010 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 31
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If I use the 2.5" w X 2.5" L X 2 1/4" deep cells, will it have any effect on tomato production if I pot up an additional time before planting out?
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December 9, 2010 | #9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Quote:
planting out (seeds started early, then hit a cold spell in late spring and need to wait a couple of weeks longer than usual, or get deluged and the garden is too wet and muddy to walk around in, do not want newly transplanted seedlings pummelled into the earth by heavy rain, etc).
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December 10, 2010 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edina, MN (Zone 4)
Posts: 945
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RinTinTin-
I start out in standard garden flats (32 cells) using the dense planting method, then transplant to Solo cups. |
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