Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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November 28, 2011 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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Can a pot-up pot be too large?
I've generally potted up from seed trays to yoghurt sized cups and I was wondering if I can skip that size and go directly from the seed tray to a grow bag that is four times the size of a yoghurt cup?
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November 28, 2011 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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I don't see a problem. I mean, why not? Just think about the size ratio when you transfer from the cup/pot/? to the garden. I think we use pot-up stages to make sure the very small seedlings don't get lost in the vast acreage of a full blown garden. And, besides, there are a lot of folks that plant tomato seeds directly into the garden.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
November 28, 2011 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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Well, that was my thought... I was wondering if perhaps the root system was somehow improved through being snug for a while, or something... If everyone agrees, I'll go straight to big pots then.
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November 28, 2011 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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There's been a lot of discussion about allowing the root systems to get dense or "root bound" in the pots. Most folks have done things a certain way for some number of years and the success they've had tends to be repeated and certainly creates a personal bias toward one method or another.
I tend to look at the root system as the main logistics supply system for the plants. Therefore, I want a large, robust root system to support fruit production. This means I don't want to "hold back" the growth and expansion of the roots at all. I tend to avoid allowing the plants to get even slightly root bound in the pot-up stages. I also tend to water from the bottom to encourage the roots to look downward for nourishment. After final transfer to the garden, the roots can then spread out laterally, and, I believe, give me the largest root system I can get with the least amount of effort.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
November 28, 2011 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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Here's an example of the kind of root system I'm getting with my methods.
Note: I always bury a portion of the stem at each pot-up. In containers, I don't fill the container up completely at spring plantout. I add new mix and nutrients as the plants get bigger and always bury a small portion of the main stem. This encourages a deep root system and expands the total root system at the soil level. The plant in the pictures was ~30 inches tall.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
December 2, 2011 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 219
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If your growing area temperature is on the cool side, you may encounter a risk potting up to much larger pots especially in potting mixes that have very high water holding capacity. The seedlings may stay too soggy for too long if you water too enthusiastically. If your growing area is cool, water sparingly until they show signs of rapid growth.
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December 3, 2011 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Maine (northeastern) USA
Posts: 53
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I agree with swamper...
It's all about the soil staying too moist in larger containers Much different than the ground soil.... You can transplant to a larger container...BuT make sure the soil dries out slightly before watering again! |
December 3, 2011 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa - GrowZone 9
Posts: 595
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Righto!
I'm in Africa so cool temps are not an issue, but I will be careful... |
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