Need help identifying foliar diseases

[DogsandDirt]

Several plants (hybrids, ironically) started to develop yellowing on some of the lower leaves. I can't decide if this is Septoria, Early Blight, or none of the above. I also have a Black Krim with large areas on the lower leaves that start out as a dried out area, then the leaf turns dry and crispy. It starts at the most distal leaf from the stem and works it's way towards the stem. The branch then just falls off. Had the same problem last year and never figured out what it is. Sprayed with Actinovate/Exel LG (3 tsp/gallon) last Thursday, and Serenade on Sunday. I can't take another year like last year.

The first 2 pictures are of the Superfantastic. A Better Boy also has this yellowing. Third picture if of the Black Krim leaves.

[kurt]

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.corne...omLeafKey.html If you had the problems last year they probaly carried over from the soils in garden,from tools transfer stakes, containers and even seeds.Some for the fungas will live for years if not nuked.Every year I do a complete cleaning of everything associated with the garden,this is before and after harvest.If you handle the plants now do one at a time,bag the leaves wash hands before the next.clean any cutters each time.Once "IT"is there all you can do is hope you get a harvest out before whole patch is infected.Hate to say it but you can slow"IT"down but getting rid of it will take some work.

[carolyn137]

I can see the lesion on one leaf in the middle picture and less well on the last picture.

it looks like Septoria Leaf Spot to me. And no variety, hybrid or OP has tolerance to Septoria Leaf Spot although some researchers are still working on it.

Yes, the fungal spores can fall to the ground in a previous year and then reinfect the lower branches by what's called Splashback infection. But that isn't going to stop any NEW infections since Septoria is spread by wind as well as in rain droplets.

THe most effective and best anti-fungal I know of for the two common foliar fungal diseases, Septoria and Early Blight ( A. solani) is Daconil ( active ingredient chlorothalonil) and spray the plants from the time they are set out.

What Daconil does is to cover the attachment sites on the upper leaf surface where those two kinds of fungal spores attach.

No, Daconil is not organic but it can be used up to the day of harvest and has less toxicity than does Rotenone, which is approved as organic by those Organic Certifying agencies I know of which are NOFA and Mogfa, here in the East.

If you decide to use Daconil make sure you get the concentrate which has 29. 6% active ingredient b'c different companies make different concentrations for different uses. Bonide and Ortho both make good preps.

[DogsandDirt]

Kurt, thank you for the link. I've been to that site many times but still couldn't figure out which one it might be. Both plants were planted in new mix (Raybo's 3-2-1), not re-used, which is why I was surprised that they're showing symptoms first. I used Bio-tone at plant out, all plants were dipped in Great White and Actinovate. I try to be careful about wiping down tools and use Chlorox Clean-up to sanitize between plants. I bought all the plants as transplants this year so Septoria could have come in with any of them. "It" is probably still here from last year and the wind certainly isn't helping.

Carolyn, thank you for your input. Does Septoria also present as leaves wilting then drying up? The Black Krim hasn't displayed any yellow spots. As for the Superfantastic and Better boy, I was going to remove all the yellowed leaves then try Daconil. I have ready to use Daconil that is 0.087% which doesn't sound nearly strong enough?

[b54red]

The third picture looks like it might be Gray Mold. I had a lot of it last year and if you wait too long to treat it the plants will lose a lot of foliage and eventually die from it. Once it gets started the only thing I have found that will stop it is a diluted bleach spray. Mix 8 ounces of regular strength bleach with a full gallon of water and a few drops of soap. Spray late in the day with a fine mist, making sure to get the undersides of the leaves, all the stems and even the mulch underneath the plant. Any infected leaves should wither quickly and dry up within a few days. Wait 4 or 5 days and check the plant very closely for any light gray patches showing on the leaves. Be sure to check very closely where the plant is shady and if you find any of the light gray spots, spray again.

[RayR]

I was thinking Gray Mold too. It doesn't have the typical small dark spots with the yellow halo of Septoria.

[amideutch]

Just remember once the plants are infected Daconil will not help. As Carolyn said it has to be used from the git-go as it is a protectant and nothing more. Ami

[carolyn137]

There is a discrete lesion on a leaf in the third picture; Gray Mold does not have discrete lesions.

No, Septoria does not cause the leaves to wither.

In the early stages you may not see any yellow halo with Septoria.

What usually happens is that the lesions take on a papery gray area in the center and then that area falls out.

The pre-mixed Daconil is OK, it's just more expensive than buying the concentrate and doesn't have as long shelf life.

Fungal foliar disease spots such as Early Blight ( A. solani) and Septoria are gray or brownish in color while Bacterial Speck and Bacterial Spot have almost black lesions and may or may not be accompanied by a yellow halo.

Early Blight, which can occur either early or late in the season, has concentric rings in the center of lesions which makes it the easiest to ID.

[RayR]

Carolyn, I see what your're saying about the distinct lesion. A clear closeup of the lesion would be more helpful and also what it looks like on the underside of the infected leaves.

DogsandDirt says it starts on the most distal leaf and works its way inward and starts out as a dried out area. The first 2 pictures with the yellowing appear like the early stages of Septoria or Early blight, but from their appearance in my own garden in NY they typically start on the lower older leaves and are not so selective as to which leaf they start on.
The third picture is quite different, no apparent yellowing, distinct large lesions and the leaves drying out from the point of the branch.

[Sun City Linda]

Dogs and Dirt _ What makes leaves wilt and dry up in my garden is Tomato Russet Mites.

[DogsandDirt]

Thank you all for your help and thoughtful responses. I removed leaves and branches from the Superfantastic last night. Below are some pictures. The hornworm egg really adds insult to injury.

I really appreciate your thoughts on the dark papery lesions on the Black Krim. This ailment affected several plants last year, both in the spring and fall. I'll try to get better pictures to post.

After removal I plan to increase spraying frequency. Would it help to kill the fungus with bleach then add chlorothionil to prevent furrher spreading? Or will I just kill the plant? I plan to continue with Actinovate and Exel LG (increase the amount/gallon) as well.

Linda, unforunately, I am well acquinated with spider mites. They love our hot climate like they do yours. Take Down is next on the list of things to spray, along with BT since I'm seeing hornworm eggs already. The mites are pretty bad on my Texas Gold Columbine which is usually unphased by bugs. The "near record highs" as the Weather Channel likes to call them, aren't helping.

[RayR]

I'm not familiar with Tomato Russet Mites since we don't have those critters around here, but from the photos I've seen on the web of the damage they cause, it matches all the types of damage that you are experiencing. It appears to be fungal-like, but it's not. Those suckers sure are tiny too.

[feldon30]

I don't see any mulch in those containers. I would definitely add some, and assuming the plants are over 2 feet tall, I would pick off any foliage that's 8-10 inches to the ground and closer.

[Dewayne mater]

D&D - where did you find Take Down in DFW? I just put out BT yesterday morning as I've seen lots of moths on my tomato plants and I know what is coming. Enjoy your tummy ache boys!

This weather/conditions has definitely caused great pressure from both disease and insects. I've been working hard on disease because with the exception of an insect bringing in a TSVW, the disease process seems to cause more bad damage more quickly. I'm out of Excel LG, so Actinovate and Serenade have been filling the void until more gets here. The fact that Excel LG is systemic makes it different/better tool than Daconil, especially if you have disease, which has started rearing its head in the last week for me.

Considering a new insect and disease spray combo, which I will post about elsewhere from Bonine. It is a combo of pymerethrin (sp?) and sulfur. Got it a Calloways and it claims to kill thrips and several other potentially very bad bugs. Good luck.

Dewayne Mater

[b54red]

Originally Posted by DogsandDirt

I really appreciate your thoughts on the dark papery lesions on the Black Krim. This ailment affected several plants last year, both in the spring and fall. I'll try to get better pictures to post.

After removal I plan to increase spraying frequency. Would it help to kill the fungus with bleach then add chlorothionil to prevent furrher spreading? Or will I just kill the plant? I plan to continue with Actinovate and Exel LG (increase the amount/gallon) as well.

Linda, unforunately, I am well acquinated with spider mites. They love our hot climate like they do yours. Take Down is next on the list of things to spray, along with BT since I'm seeing hornworm eggs already. The mites are pretty bad on my Texas Gold Columbine which is usually unphased by bugs. The "near record highs" as the Weather Channel likes to call them, aren't helping.

Do not mix the bleach and chlorothionil! Bleach is highly reactive. If you use the mild bleach solution do it with only a little soap as a spreader sticker. Wait an hour then spray the chlorothionil as a preventative. The bleach will have already done its work and will be oxidized by then.

Dewayne, I had some success last year fighting spider mites by mixing up a spray with Permethrin and soap and then added an IGR (insect growth regulator). It is the only thing besides sulfur that has seemed to have much effect on them and I never get to use sulfur because it is always too hot here. Sulfur can cause damage with temps above 90 degrees.