Fertilizing container tomatoes

Good morning from SE Pennsylvania,

I'm still a rookie on a learning curve! One week ago I planted six different varieties of tomatoes in 8-gallon containers. I searched out Pro-Mix BX to use as my growing medium. After adding a couple of TBLS of lime into each planing hole, I planted each plant quite deeply.

My question now is what would be a good feeding schedule? I'm somewhat confused as to what type of fertilizer to use an HOW OFTEN to apply it.

My containers face the East and get between 7 and 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Also, should I be applying calcium nitrate at any time?

[JamesL]

Frank,
You will probably get a variety of opinions. Poke around the site for people growing similar to you.
Are your containers Earthtainer style or drain holes in the bottom?

Raybo's latest Earthtainer Guide - discusses some fertilizing
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=22584

If you haven't seen these threads, they are all good.
Raybo did a test on Ca - worth a read.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=19973
He did a related one on Epsom salt (Mg) as the relationship between Ca and Mg are intertwined.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=19955
Calcium Nitrate and BER
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=14513

[amideutch]

I'm assuming your using standard containers with bottom drainage. The type of fertilizer you choose (organic/inorganic) will determine the frequency with which you will apply ferts and at what stage of growth your plant is at. As the plant matures and bears fruit the nutrient uptake of the plant will increase.

The use of Calcium Nitrate (Inorganic Fertilizer) is for special applications where you need a nitrogen or calcium fix for an apparent problem right now as it is available to the plant almost immediately upon application. As you used lime on plantout you should have the calcium requirement covered and as for the nitogen once you decide what fertilizer you choose it should cover that.

This is a new orgainc fert I'm trying this year, Dr. Earth Organic 7 All purpose 4-4-4 with beneficial soil microbes added (Mycorrhiza) as a base for my containers. Then later I will supplement it with BioBizz BioGrow. Check out this site as they have quite a selection of organic ferts. Ami

http://www.groworganic.com/dr-earth-...-444-4-lb.html

[roper2008]

I use happy frog tomato & vegetable Organic Fertilizer. I mix it in my
containers. I'm a bit lazy when it comes to fertilizing, that's why I like
slow release fertilizers.

[z_willus_d]

Originally Posted by amideutch

I'm assuming your using standard containers with bottom drainage. The type of fertilizer you choose (organic/inorganic) will determine the frequency with which you will apply ferts and at what stage of growth your plant is at. As the plant matures and bears fruit the nutrient uptake of the plant will increase.

The use of Calcium Nitrate (Inorganic Fertilizer) is for special applications where you need a nitrogen or calcium fix for an apparent problem right now as it is available to the plant almost immediately upon application. As you used lime on plantout you should have the calcium requirement covered and as for the nitogen once you decide what fertilizer you choose it should cover that.

Hi Ami, I'm growing a number of pepper plants (sweet and bell) in small 2.5gal containers this year. They're resting on my backyard cement patio (white) on some plastic. At first, they were getting fried in the sun, as the pots are black plastic nursery style. I covered the lot with Mylar to reflect the sun, and the heat has gone down so no more wilting leaves.

Now I'm getting loads of pepper starts (probably 2 or 3 a day on the sweets and maybe 1 every 2 days on the bells). The problem is every pepper that comes out grow a black spot of rot on its side generally toward the blossom end, which I assume is BER. I added lime and other sources of calcium to my potting mix. The mix was very similar to what Raybo suggests, but with other goodies like composted horse manure, forest humus, crab shells, worm castings, etc. So, would you suggest I spray or soil drench with either Epsom salts and/or Calcium nitrate (both of which I have)? If so, how much and which method? Any other tips?

Thanks. I want to eat at least one mature pepper. Also, do you think 2.5-gal is just too small to mature a standard pepper plant? Maybe that's my issue. Right now, they're all about 1.5 to 2' tall and 1' wide.

--naysen

[amideutch]

naysen,naysen,naysen. The 64 dollar question is what is causing the BER. Since it seems you have the Calcium supplements covered I'm thinking it is from STRESS caused by the overheating of the root zone. This may only be happening with the first flush of fruit and maybe subsequent fruits will be unaffected. I've seen this with tomatoes as well. here is a link on the subject that may help. Ami

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ss497

[TigersAU777]

Originally Posted by FrankT

Good morning from SE Pennsylvania,

I'm still a rookie on a learning curve! One week ago I planted six different varieties of tomatoes in 8-gallon containers. I searched out Pro-Mix BX to use as my growing medium. After adding a couple of TBLS of lime into each planing hole, I planted each plant quite deeply.

My question now is what would be a good feeding schedule? I'm somewhat confused as to what type of fertilizer to use an HOW OFTEN to apply it.

My containers face the East and get between 7 and 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Also, should I be applying calcium nitrate at any time?

Hi Frank! My first year too and I am loving the experience. I have asked the same question for my tomatoes on here but in another part of the site. The answers I got were varied, but I will tell you what i have been doing that worked for me. I will show you pictures of my tomatoes if you would like, because I believe they are very productive. Being that you are growing in containers, washing away nutrients with watering seems to be the biggest issue. I water very often as I have seen first hand that my brothers hydroponic tomatoes drink 5 gallons of water every day and a half between 8 plants. Since I am watering so often (2 times a day) I fertilize every other watering, but at 1/4 strength. If you don't want to go through that much hassle you can fertilize them at full strength every 4 days. I would only recommend this much if you are watering at least once a day. I am using a combo of Miracle Gro all purpose and Miracle Gro Bloom booster mixed in equal parts. I also keep organic crab and shrimp meal in my soil at all times, and replenish it about every 2-3 weeks. In addition to those I sprinkle half a teaspoon of sulfate of potash (very cheap on ebay) around the base of my plants once a week. My soil is a mixture of about 60% compost, 20% composted manure, 10% perlite, and 10% peat moss. If you or anyone else would like to see pictures to make sure you know what you will be getting from this schedule I would be more than happy to show you the results!!! Hope this helps.

[mdvpc]

Espoma tomato tone and azomite, following the directions for container plants would be an option for you.

[Tracydr]

Originally Posted by TigersAU777

Hi Frank! My first year too and I am loving the experience. I have asked the same question for my tomatoes on here but in another part of the site. The answers I got were varied, but I will tell you what i have been doing that worked for me. I will show you pictures of my tomatoes if you would like, because I believe they are very productive. Being that you are growing in containers, washing away nutrients with watering seems to be the biggest issue. I water very often as I have seen first hand that my brothers hydroponic tomatoes drink 5 gallons of water every day and a half between 8 plants. Since I am watering so often (2 times a day) I fertilize every other watering, but at 1/4 strength. If you don't want to go through that much hassle you can fertilize them at full strength every 4 days. I would only recommend this much if you are watering at least once a day. I am using a combo of Miracle Gro all purpose and Miracle Gro Bloom booster mixed in equal parts. I also keep organic crab and shrimp meal in my soil at all times, and replenish it about every 2-3 weeks. In addition to those I sprinkle half a teaspoon of sulfate of potash (very cheap on ebay) around the base of my plants once a week. My soil is a mixture of about 60% compost, 20% composted manure, 10% perlite, and 10% peat moss. If you or anyone else would like to see pictures to make sure you know what you will be getting from this schedule I would be more than happy to show you the results!!! Hope this helps.

Why do you use the sulphur on your potted plants? Is your calcium coming from the shrimp/crab meal? How do you replenish it?

[Tracydr]

Originally Posted by FrankT

Good morning from SE Pennsylvania,

I'm still a rookie on a learning curve! One week ago I planted six different varieties of tomatoes in 8-gallon containers. I searched out Pro-Mix BX to use as my growing medium. After adding a couple of TBLS of lime into each planing hole, I planted each plant quite deeply.

My question now is what would be a good feeding schedule? I'm somewhat confused as to what type of fertilizer to use an HOW OFTEN to apply it.

My containers face the East and get between 7 and 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Also, should I be applying calcium nitrate at any time?

On my potted plants, I've been use weekly Neptune's Harvest seaweed emulsion and fish emulsion. I also put a handful of fish meal in each container, and some gypsum.
This is my first year of containers and I only have peppers ( and hibiscus) in the pots. So far so good but they are just starting to set fruit since I was late getting them potted.
I am having a problem with BER on my Striped Romans in my raised beds, despite even moisture. If anyone has and ideas? Perhaps the calcium nitrate would help? I forgot to put gypsum in this bed when I built it, not sure if that's my problem.

[z_willus_d]

Originally Posted by amideutch

naysen,naysen,naysen. The 64 dollar question is what is causing the BER. Since it seems you have the Calcium supplements covered I'm thinking it is from STRESS caused by the overheating of the root zone. This may only be happening with the first flush of fruit and maybe subsequent fruits will be unaffected. I've seen this with tomatoes as well. here is a link on the subject that may help. Ami

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ss497

Hi Ami, I forgot to mention that the first thing I considered and still believe to be the #1 culprit is plant stress. I've done everything I can to even-out root temperature and soil-moisture gyrations. I mulched the top inch of the pot (no more room available), and I water a good 3-cups every morning before work. The only other thing I can think to try (and I have on both accounts) are (1) move the pots off to the side yard where they'll get only morning sun and less of it overall (I did this with one of the plants that was exhibiting the pepper BER, so we'll see; and (2) transplant up to larger pots (did this on one and left it next to the others on the cement top.

Perhaps it's just not possible to grow healthy pepper plants of these types in such small pots. I'll probably try a foliar of Epsom salts or maybe a calcium nitrate soak just to see if it can help, though I'm not expecting it will based on everything I've read on the subject of BER.

Alright, that's enough hijacking for one day.

Thanks,
Naysen

[TigersAU777]

Originally Posted by Tracydr

Why do you use the sulphur on your potted plants? Is your calcium coming from the shrimp/crab meal? How do you replenish it?

There is VERY little sulphur in the sulfate of potash, the reason i use it is for its 0-0-50 NPK. VERY high in potassium. Also, as a newbie I have not replaced my calcium except for the shrimp and crab meal. What can I use to replace it? I just did a soil test and my soil is alkaline so I guess the lime I was going to add would have been a bad idea...i've read milk works and maybe calcium nitrate. Insight?