Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
October 29, 2012 | #1 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
|
Greenhouse disease photos
These two photos were taken today in my greenhouse. Its been super hot-as hot as 100 degrees in there. Both were taken from the bottom of the plant. Plant is in a global bucket. I had pythium last year, so have recently put actinovate, and then a few days later Excel LG, both with soil drench-no foliar of any kind put on these plants. Any ideas on what caused this?
__________________
Michael |
October 29, 2012 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,932
|
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.corne...omLeafKey.html
Hi there, This might help you to diagnose your problem. Hope it helps. K |
October 29, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alberta, Canada Z3a
Posts: 905
|
I am not sure if the two are related or not but I believe the first one is a nutrient imbalance.
Jeff |
October 29, 2012 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,251
|
Septoria leaf spot, one small area that is probably early blight, the wilted leaf needs more info to tell. If it wilted on the plant, then you may have a systemic disease.
Best recommendation is to remove all affected leaves, remove all lower leaves near the soil, then spray with copper. DarJones |
October 29, 2012 | #5 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
|
Thanks to all for your input.
Darrell- It did wilt on the plant. I do have some copper and will spray tomorrow. I will post when I see how things go.
__________________
Michael |
October 30, 2012 | #6 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
|
Quote:
And as Darrel mentioned, wilting usually indicates a systemic soilborne disease and I can't see that happening in your greenhouse b'c I assume you're using a soiless mix of some kind. The problem for me is that pictures are static while disease is progressive which makes Dx difficult for me. From the lesions as I see them on the non-wilted leaves might even suggest one of the bacterial foliage diseases. If yellow halos appear it usually suggests Bacterial Speck rather than Bacterial Spot. Are there any lesions on the stems? Pythium is usually seen when plants are grown too close and there's high heat and humidty. Pythium is not a first class pathogen and is found normally in the air but seldom causes disease except under the conditions I just mentioned. So you had fruits that were essentially a bag of water and would burst spilling their nasty guts all over the place, which is what Pythium does to fruits. So please keep watch on your plants and let us know if any other symptoms appear, and yes, I'd remove any diseased leaves as well.
__________________
Carolyn |
|
October 30, 2012 | #7 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
|
Carolyn-Thanks for the input. The mix is soiless, its a fertilome product. No lesions on the stems that I have noticed. I will post how things go. Going to spray soap shield, which is a copper product in a few minutes.
__________________
Michael |
October 30, 2012 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: England
Posts: 512
|
Quote:
Out of interest, the withered leaves, are they from a from a plant that retains chlorophyl, such as a black/purple/brown or a GWR? |
|
November 3, 2012 | #9 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
|
Maf
The first photo is from a Chocolate Lightning plant, one of the lines we are working on in the dwarf project.
__________________
Michael |
November 4, 2012 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: England
Posts: 512
|
The reason I asked is because the "dark" type tomatoes retain Chlorophyl in the leaves when they reach the end of their life instead of turning yellow like regular tomato plants. In other words the leaves stay green and just sort of wither up, before eventually falling off.
The dark interveinal spots look like symptoms of magnesium deficiency, which can also be caused by high concentrations of potassium in the soil because the excess potassium will inhibit take up of magnesium. It affects the lower leaves first and can also cause premature leaf drop. Edited to add: I don't think the spots are caused by disease because disease spots would appear on all areas of the leaf, not just the spaces between veins. The magnesium deficiency and/or potassium excess is my best guess but could conceivably be other nutrients/micronutrients involved in the imbalance too. Last edited by maf; November 4, 2012 at 07:57 PM. |
November 4, 2012 | #11 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
|
Maf-Interesting. I will digest your post and respond.
Maf-I did some googling about magnesium deficiency, and the photos look like the first one. In my global buckets, there is azomite, espoma tomato tone (which has mag) and I am using a soil drench with 1/2 tsp of kelp and 1/2 teaspoon of a 7-4-10 with micros-cal, mag etc. So I dont think the mag is low, but the k may be too high and interfering. I think I will try a soil drench of Epsom salts when I get home in a couple days, not too much, maybe 1 tablespoon in a gallon of water, used sparingly. Thanks for your thoughts.
__________________
Michael |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|