Effective Watering

[Durgan]

I seldom water, but when I do the roots get treated, where moisture is required..

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?DDBQE 8 July 2012 Effective Watering.
Get the moisture to the roots of the plants! Not by guesswork, but by utilizing an effective delivery system. The watering magic wand and a bit of effort delivers the water where it can be utilized by the plant roots. The soil is hard packed clay between all the plants, yet the plants are thriving. The plant root growing area might be compared to a large pot.The pot being the hard packed clay outside the root growing area. All my plants are watered when large enough using the WATER MAGIC WAND.When the plants are small a watering can is used or a pail.Why would any thinking person water the ground between the plants where it does no earthy good? Even some of he large trees get water, since during this dry spell some are shedding leaves, a sure sign of they need water. Drip,soaker hose, and aerial spraying are almost insane as far as being effective for the plants.Plants so not need continuous watering, they like a deluge then a rest period.

Observation made to support my position.As a young man serving in Egypt (Gaza)it was observed how the local landowner watered his field of tomatoes. Remember this area is almost like a desert.Labour was cheap.The two or three acre field was dammed around the circumference, about two feet high. Then the field was flooded about six inches deep. A marvellous crop ensued.

Another, once visiting a botanical garden in Cincinnati USA, it was observed that they were growing plants certainly not native to the area. The area was heavily mulched.Upon investigation it was ascertained that the non climate plants were grown in large pots and watered as necessary.This system of growing is analogous to my present yard, the hard packed clay soil around the growing plants being the pot walls.Nobody in their right mind would water space between pots.

Mulch helps retain moisture for longer periods, but it alone is not adequate if there is insufficient rainfall.The watering times are staggered,hence the effort is not onerous. The results are spectacular with little wastage of water.

Our Granddaddy did a better job watering his plants with a stone boat and a team of horses and a couple of 45 gallon drums, than most of the present methods. He didn't blanket water, you can be sure.How much water required is determined by experience. You don’t need a meter, your plants will inform you and usually quickly. Quod Erat Demonstrandum. Pictures substantiate my method.

[NewDiggings]

So how far do you figure your roots extend outward and downward from the base of the plant? Say for the tomatoes, for example

Joe

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by NewDiggings

So how far do you figure your roots extend outward and downward from the base of the plant? Say for the tomatoes, for example

Joe

Tomato Root area is about a nine inch diameter from the main stem, and about eight inches deep. Actually potatoes are similar, except new tubers are always above the seed potato.

[dice]

Root development of tomatoes:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglib...10137ch26.html

(Soils with a hard, compact layer under the topsoil, like caliche in
the southwest, will vary from this. Soils that hold water relatively
well may provide little incentive for deep root growth, too.)

Root Development of Vegetable Crops:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglib...010137toc.html

Root Development of Field Crops:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglib...010139toc.html

edit:
I was digging a small hole to plant a shrub/tree (supposed to
be a hybrid Chinese magnolia, but I have never grown one
before, so I do not know what the leaves look like). There happened
to be some winter-dormant alfalfa growing right there among
the grass and weeds. The alfalfa had been there for a couple
of years. I pulled up this rope-like taproot about half an inch
thick that broke off about three feet down. I do not know how
deep it really went, maybe 6 feet or more. It is a good thing to
plant to initially condition and add drainage to a new garden
bed.

[Cole_Robbie]

Drip irrigation wouldn't be industry standard if it were "insane." Last year I had one patch of plants I sprayed with a hose and another patch on drip. The hose-watered plants suffered in the heat. The tomatoes got thick skins and a sour taste. My drip-irrigated plants did much better. Drip is the only way to get my clay soil soaked without the water running off.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by dice

Root development of tomatoes:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglib...10137ch26.html

(Soils with a hard, compact layer under the topsoil, like caliche in
the southwest, will vary from this. Soils that hold water relatively
well may provide little incentive for deep root growth, too.)

Root Development of Vegetable Crops:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglib...010137toc.html

Root Development of Field Crops:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglib...010139toc.html

Very useful material. A lot of work went into producing that information.