Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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February 13, 2007 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boonville, NY
Posts: 419
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What Really Works?
What really, really works when it comes to tomato growing?
I've only found two sure-fire things: variety selection, and Daconil. It really seems to matter what varieties you pick to grow. And if there's one secret to great tomatoes beyond that, it seems to be, unfortunately, a regular spray program of Daconil to control foliage diseases. But I realize other folks must have noticed other things that work swell for them, and was wondering what they might be, and in what order of effectiveness. I've pruned plants a little, I've pruned plants a lot, and I've not pruned, and never noticed much of a difference. I've used Wall o' Waters, and never had good results. I've dug deep holes and shallow holes, I've planted roots sideways or straight down, I've put nothing in the holes and have amended holes with organic fertilizer mixes, MiracleGro water, chemical fertilizers, Jobe spikes, superphosphate, and with nothing. I've used everything short of Drano. None of these things has made a big difference. I've tried micchrohizae (sp?!). Didn't do anything, as far as I can tell. I've never found a difference in performance or taste regardless of whether I've caged, trellised, sprawled, or danced with the plants. I've used raised beds, many kinds of plastics and mulches, and so on. The latter attract rodents and snakes. None of them make much difference when it comes to growing tomatoes. I've planted out tiny seedlings and big plants. The former catch up. I've hardened and beaten seedlings to within an inch of their lives, yet some years I've rushed virtually unhardened plants out. The latter suffer but catch up. (Although I don't recommend completely unhardened seedlings - instant death up here!). So what works for you and what doesn't? What are the real biggies that we should really consider trying, or trying again? =gregg= |
February 13, 2007 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 2,618
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1. Sunlight: Lots of sun.
2. Watering system: automatic watering system to ensure proper moisture. 3. Bright lights to start strong seedlings indoors. 4. Pollinator: I use an electric pollinator to help setting fruit. 4. Prayer :wink: . dcarch
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tomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomato matomato tomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomato matomato tomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomato matomato |
February 13, 2007 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Metro Detroit/Z6
Posts: 168
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Greg, this is an excellent thread that you've started here. I've also planted tomatoes every which way possible, but have never experienced the types of yields that the more successful growers have here, at TV.
Yield is my problem. I have been successful at getting some tomatoes off the vine very early, but I've never seen the multi-pound output that others have here, esp from my heirloom / OP's. I'd love to hear some secrets. Here is my usual routine: 1) Start seeds indoors around the last week of March. Grow under lights for about 2-3 weeks. 2) Pot up into 12 oz plastic cups. When the weather warms up a bit I put out in the greenhouse which I keep not lower than about 50 degs F. 3) Amend my raised beds in April with a couple inches of compost and composted manure 4) If the weather looks good I plant out mid to late May or Memorial weekend if the weather is too cool. I've also used WOW's in the past and planted earlier. 5) I trench my plants and add a handful or 2 of Tomato Tone along with a handful or 2 of compost and manure. That's it for fertilizer for the whole season. 6) I cage and water via soakers weekly or when the soil feels dry down to a couple inches or so. 7) I spray with Daconil. That's it. Any suggestions??!!!!
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Mark |
February 13, 2007 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: West By God Virginia
Posts: 245
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Yes there is one more thing Humic or Fulvic acid and seaweed or kelp extract foliar feedings.
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I plant... Therefore I am. - Dunkel What the country needs is dirtier fingernails and cleaner minds. - Will Rogers |
February 13, 2007 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 554
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Cutting to the chase on a great question...
1) good, fertile soil 2) good seeds grown into healthy seedlings 3) good weather (sunny and warm with just enough wet stuff) 4) good airflow Jennifer from the minimalfussingisbest school of tomato growing |
February 13, 2007 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NE Kingdom, VT - Zone 3b
Posts: 1,439
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Caging works. Depending on the weather, up to 50% of my crop was unmarketable during untimely wet periods when I let them sprawl. With caging it is minimal. No more soil rots, molds, cricket bites, or wireworm holes.
Combined with black landscape cloth over raised beds, there is very, very little tomato loss. |
February 13, 2007 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ Bayshore
Posts: 3,848
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In my "rook" opinion:
1. Sun / garden location 2. Healthy transplants 3. Fertile Soil /Mild application of non-commercial fertilizer 4. Proper spacing 5. Even watering 7. Mulching 8. Routine maintenance (weeding / prunning when nec.) 9. A "good-eye" to spot problems - and nip them early 10. Picking ripe tomatoes come frequently ~ Tom
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My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. ~ H. Fred Ale |
February 13, 2007 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: UK.
Posts: 960
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Tom- what's all that white or pale stuff all over your patch, looks like straw or wood shavings in the picture.
Back to growing tomatoes:- I have found that the best way to grow good crops outside, is to keep them in the greenhouse until the ground realy warms up outside -before planting them out. over here in the uk- that is around last week in may or first week in june, when all danger of frost has past, sometimes I take a chance and plant them a week or two earlier- depending on the weather. Lots of seaweed fertilizer liquid feed, a really good basic fertilizer dug in to the ground in february, and hopefully some good horse manure or cow manure-but not pig manure as pig manure is a cold manure and can contain lots of stinging nettle seeds, whereas the other puts a bit of heat into the soil, and a good stick or cane or an electric pollinator. |
February 13, 2007 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: swPA
Posts: 629
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My area stinks. Hardly any sun, and cool nights.
I have found and many may disagree but I think "Super Thrive" Hormes #4 really helps when put in the hole at planting time. For the two years that I used it, my seedlings have been perkier and less prone to shock. Since using it I have had earlier crops and healthier plants. Soaker hoses have really helped too. Not near as much blight spreading about. Really handy since the sun doesn't hit till about noon. CECIL
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Hybrids Rule, Heirlooms Drool! |
February 13, 2007 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: z4MN
Posts: 261
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I sprinkle a handful or two of food grade cornmeal around the plants when I set them out. It is supposed to grow or attract a fungus called tricoderma that is a cide against other fungus.
I give them foliar feedings of kelp. My favorite growing aid is aerated compost tea.
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Solanaceae Hugger |
February 13, 2007 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MO z6a near St. Louis
Posts: 1,349
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Location is a biggie. Tomatoes grow well in Missouri and similar locations (e.g. southern Ohio and Pennsylvania). Lots of sun and warm-to-hot weather and a long growing season. There are things I do (see below) that I think make sense for me, but for all I know they don't make squat of difference.
We spread composted horse manure on the garden (and a small amount of compost) and till it in and that's the full extent of our fertilization. The plants are vigorous but aren't putting all their energy into foliage. Paper and straw mulch. Last year I put it down too early (put the mulch down and planted into it) and I think the soil didn't warm fast enough before the hot weather set in. This year it's back to the old method, which was to plant first, then mulch. We have been having a drought for the last few years and mulch is mandatory, since I don't water my plants once they get going. Space. I plant on five-to-six foot centers and use cages that are about 30" in diameter. The plants get good sun and good air circulation, though by mid- to late-season plants are touching each other and it is difficult to get through the tomato patch. Variety. Some varieties are hardier than others, in my experience.
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--Ruth Some say the glass half-full. Others say the glass is half-empty. To an engineer, it’s twice as big as it needs to be. |
February 13, 2007 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ Bayshore
Posts: 3,848
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MJ -
It straw mulch ~ Tom
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My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. ~ H. Fred Ale |
February 13, 2007 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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What I do is an ancient Chinese secret.
The best way to describe it is loving neglect. :wink: Worth |
February 13, 2007 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Left Coasty
Posts: 964
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Dang, I thought I was the only one using that secret technique!
Well, my other fail safe is that you simply have to have good soil. It all starts with great tilth, nice deep friable soil with lots of organic material and nutrients.
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Lets see...$10 for Worth and $5 for Fusion, man. Tomatoes are expensive! Bob |
February 13, 2007 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,038
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Location is paramount...I have had my best crops in different locations with Worth's secret...neglect...I still do very little after plant out...In worse areas of my garden I throw a few pounds of compost in the hole at plant out....I have seen great yields in my friends raised beds, but mine had the most thrip damage last year, so the poorer pasrts of my garden produced better...I only fertilize containers and not very often at that...In short ,there are millions of different techniques and opinions that may or may not work in different locations...
Keeping it simple and enjoyable should be foremost....If I hadn't started seedlings for many years, I would be completely overwhelmed by the some of the advice on seed starting...Tomatoes are very accomodating and easy to grow...everyone should try....even if they don't have starting medium or grow lights...I see more dissapointments with the people trying to cover all the bases....And always plant at least 20 varieties to ensure a few will do welll that year ! Jeanne |
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