Seeding in Solo cups

[weaselbean]

For years Ive started my plants in little six pack starter cups with jiffy seed starter mix. After 2 sets of full leaves up potted to Solos.

I'm getting tired of up potting these things and just wondered why I cant just put the seed in the Solos to start with and skip the up potting business all together.

Input greatly appreciated

[mikemansker]

Makes perfect sense to me. If you plant more than one seed in the solo, you'll probably always get a seedling.

[Labradors2]

I read an interesting article recently where somebody started their seedlings in Solo cups, but they only half-filled the cup with potting mix so that they could add it later as the plant grew. I don't know how that would work under grow lights though....

Linda

[Deborah]

If you spray with a mister bottle so the seeds don't go down under too much, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

[Father'sDaughter]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

I read an interesting article recently where somebody started their seedlings in Solo cups, but they only half-filled the cup with potting mix so that they could add it later as the plant grew. I don't know how that would work under grow lights though....

Linda

You could probably make it work if you left the soil line down only about 1-2 inches below the rim. Then as long as you're using shop lights, drop the light fixtures to the point where they are just about touching the rims of the cups after the seeds emerge.

[Gardeneer]

To me the main reason is the germination process.
If for example you have to start 100 plants an sow seeds in 100 solo cups, then you have to need keep all those 100 cups warm for about 10 days and you will have to keep those 100 solo cups under light fo at least 4 weeks.
The bottom line : IF YOU HAVE THE RESOURCES YOU CAN DO IT BY SOWING IN 16 OZ SOLO CUPS.

[AlittleSalt]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

I read an interesting article recently where somebody started their seedlings in Solo cups, but they only half-filled the cup with potting mix so that they could add it later as the plant grew. I don't know how that would work under grow lights though....

Linda

I read something about doing that too.

I'm thinking about trying it this summer when I plant the fall garden tomato seeds. I plant seeds outside in June - they're never in the house. I will do it in dappled shade - otherwise the new seedlings would burn up. I could do some like that and some the way I have been to see if there is any difference.

[Worth1]

Some plants do better by potting them up.
This was discussed here some time ago by Craig of the now famous Tomato book.
He made the mistake one year of not doing this and it set him back.

There are other practical reasons too.
One is you are using up less space at a critical moment.
The other is you can use an expensive seed starting mix.
You can select the best from a smaller area.
Being able to take them out of the baby nursery as they are needed and sprout.
Wasted time and soil on seeds that don't sprout.
Worth

As you can tell I am not a fan of

[oakley]

I've done that. A few reasons not to but the main one is drying out.
In small seedling cells they need to be moist to germinate, then once the true leave
emerge, the seedlings start to take off needing more water to continue....
A very natural drying out of the soil happens easily then quickly. Why i wait a bit before
potting up. A bit longer than just true leaves. No unwanted long term moisture on the
soil surface for diseases, molds, etc.

Probably ok to put 3-5 seeds if you have plenty, then thin/cull to the strong one. Extra roots from multiple seedlings will help absorb the extra water. I started 2/3rd down, then filled as they grew.

I do that anyway when i pot up, then fill more soil as they grow. I like to get the seedling down deep in the pot. Can't do that if started in the cups from the get go.
And they will be further from the lights if you start deep in cups.

Seemed slow growing and leggy. Doable for sure. Not optimal results.
I was pressed for time that year and nearly just went for nursery plants so it was
a good choice at the time.

I just prefer a clean soiless mix controlled, then pot up to a good potting mix and start feeding.

[MissS]

Another reason to start the plants in cells is for the root growth. By starting seeds in cells and then moving them up, you are restricting the tap root and encouraging the roots to spread out. Roots that spread far are preferable to a long main tap root because then are able to absorb more nutrients.

[weaselbean]

Originally Posted by MissS

Another reason to start the plants in cells is for the root growth. By starting seeds in cells and then moving them up, you are restricting the tap root and encouraging the roots to spread out. Roots that spread far are preferable to a long main tap root because then are able to absorb more nutrients.

If the plant wants a long tap root would that not be what the grower should strive for? I think the plant knows more about what it needs than I do.

Just asking

[NewWestGardener]

One major factor for me is lights and space. If I sow 50 varieties in seeding mix in one tray, I only need one sets of lights, which can be adjusted as the seedlings grow, so they are just a couple of inches above. It is also easier to water just one tray for a while.
I also sow some seeds sparsely in a potting mix, usuasally in recycled plastic salad mix containers, with a top layer of seeding mix. The top layer is to prevent too much salt/nutrients hurting the sprouting seeds. The bottom mix is for growth a bit beyond, with needed nutrients. These are not to be potted again, but to be hardened off , then separated, and planted directly in the garden. I have some flowers (e.g. Marigolds) and some veggies planted this way. If you are only growing a few tomatoes, you certainly can do it this way. Potting mix in bottom, seeding mix on top, in individual pots.

[Gardeneer]

Originally Posted by NewWestGardener

One major factor for me is lights and space. If I sow 50 varieties in seeding mix in one tray, I only need one sets of lights, which can be adjusted as the seedlings grow, so they are just a couple of inches above. It is also easier to water just one tray for a while.
I also sow some seeds sparsely in a potting mix, usuasally in recycled plastic salad mix containers, with a top layer of seeding mix. The top layer is to prevent too much salt/nutrients hurting the sprouting seeds. The bottom mix is for growth a bit beyond, with needed nutrients. These are not to be potted again, but to be hardened off , then separated, and planted directly in the garden. I have some flowers (e.g. Marigolds) and some veggies planted this way. If you are only growing a few tomatoes, you certainly can do it this way. Potting mix in bottom, seeding mix on top, in individual pots.

Exactly.
If I had to do it now, outside or in my cold frame I would use solo cups or nursery pot of the same size. Actually I am doing some other stuff that way now. But in the middle of January, I had to do it inside , keep the tray on heating pad, and after germination under light for weeks, in a limited space.

[MissS]

Originally Posted by weaselbean

If the plant wants a long tap root would that not be what the grower should strive for? I think the plant knows more about what it needs than I do.

Just asking

Not necessarily. Here is a study that says otherwise. http://soilandhealth.org/wp-content/...10137ch26.html

[Cole_Robbie]

Transplanting corrects legginess, which is what I like about it.