A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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May 26, 2008 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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Pine bark mulch
It wont be long until my smaller bed is done for the year and am wondering if I should just till in the mulch or remove it. The soil is still not as friable as I would like so I do plan to add more compost. I did have some blight issues in this bed. Your thoughts?
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May 27, 2008 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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The safe thing to do is not do that (potentially preserve
blight spores where you grow tomatoes). That said, a lot of people turn under any mulch that was left on the beds (or even just leave it there and cover it up with new mulch the next summer), whether there was blight or not. My only relevant experience is with some blighted leaves that I left on a bed over a winter, covered with about a foot of horse manure. I removed about 2/3 of the manure the next spring to use for something else, and I turned the rest under. There was no blight in that bed the next summer. Was it something in the manure that attacked or ate the blight spores? Was it just that I buried them too deep for them to be activated the next year? Was it just luck? I have no way of knowing. I did have plenty of rain the next year capable of splashing spores up onto the plants in that row, and I didn't mulch it with fresh mulch until about a month into the season, so there were planty of chances for spores to splash up onto the plants there and infect them, but none of them got any blight. Even so, I still removed all mulch after the next season in all tomato beds and moved it to beds with plants in them that don't get any kind of blight, and then I covered it with a new layer of shredded leaves, because that still seems safer than turning it under in the tomato beds. I can always get new stuff (manure, compost, shredded leaves, shredded tree branches, etc) to replenish organic matter in the tomato beds. There is a school of thought that says each year's mulch should be incorporated into compost piles, so that the compost builds up organisms that will feed on blight fungi and their spores. Kind of like a vaccine.
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-- alias Last edited by dice; May 27, 2008 at 02:55 AM. Reason: clarity |
May 27, 2008 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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Good info, thanks for replying
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May 27, 2008 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 630
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I would just remove it altogether, but that's just me. Composting it might not be a bad idea.
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May 27, 2008 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Duane,
I would remove those pine mulch pieces if possible. If you till them in, add some nitrogen, as decomposition process will leach the N out of your soil to break down the mulch. I would add something like alfalfa pellets or meal, and horticulturla corn meal which is supposed to help feed bacteria that eat several different fungi. If you do till it in and add N source, compost, and cornmeal, cover that with straw, alfalfa hay, or shredded leaves to overwinter. When you come back in the spring, you will be amazed at the soil improvement. |
May 27, 2008 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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I forgot to mention, add some molasses. I know that coffee grounds attract worms. Starbucks gives them away for free, and they are a good source of Nitrogen.
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May 27, 2008 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Farmington, Nm
Posts: 450
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Lots of information here. First you live in Corpus so I know a wonderfull resource if you have a pick up truck to gather lots or organic matter... The beach. As for your mulch I would rake out the big pices and either use them to mulch something else or add them to the compost (The reuse being preferable).
I would go to the island and load up a pickup load of fresh sargassum.. Go through that dollar fresh water rinse to knock the sand and salt off of it and bring it home. I would then add it to that bed and till it in real good. along with Gypsum. I would then top it with a couple of inches of manure or stable bedding or your own compost and then cover it all with alot of grass clippings and water it in real well. Water it regularly(to aid rapid breakdown in the summer heat) until the next crop(that's nearly two months away), till again grow, repeat over winter. If you can't get manure use more grass clippings. The local st augustine has alot of moisure and nitrogen and breaks down fast. That awfull Black clay will soon become more friable. Another trick which I used last summer is to grow some Cow Peas, mung beans black eyed peas at this time of year.. Plant them thickly over the entire garden and let them grow right at the point past flowering wack or scyth them downleaving the roots in the ground. Plant the fall crop. The roots provide aration tunnels and organic matter in the ground. The tops privide a nutritious mulch. Do what you can, but working on improving the soil is the fun part for me.
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May 30, 2008 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi,Texas Z9
Posts: 1,996
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Good info guys, much thanks
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