Dig this. Dig I must.

[dcarch]

Originally Posted by dice

Ok, I saw the video, it works.
Congratulations.
I also noticed that the bed that you were "deep tilling" was only about 3
feet wide. Why was simply shoveling it out 18" deep and tilling the subsoil
below there with the normal tiller blades not an option? This may be Faster, but I bet shovel-out-and-till would have mixed
organic matter into the subsoil better.

I have several patches, shoveling will be a lot of back breaking work.
You will notice that the auger mixes the soil like a mixer, much better than doing it by hand.

dcarch

[the999bbq]

Put me in the "don't bother to dig that deep" team. i wouldn't bother to dig that deep : the soil that deep will be low quality soil, it will be too cold for the tomato to be in...
If you really want to maximize the roots, try 'regular' deep planting and if that wasn't enough try to make a horizontal trench and plant the tomato somewhat horizontal in stead of 90° vertical, as much stem as you put in the ground that will be full of roots.

You would have a hard time in my ground when it's warm to drill with your macGyver drill, and all you dig up will be crappy compacted 'dead' soil you want to get rid of (so not mixed with the good top soil).
But if this works better for you than that's your way to go.

[dcarch]

“Put me in the "don't bother to dig that deep" team. i wouldn't bother to dig that deep : the soil that deep will be low quality soil,”
That’s the point. The attempt is to improve the low quality soil deep below. Getting lots of compost deep down. I now have topsoil all the way down to 36”. This also improved the moisture holding ability of the soil a lot.

“it will be too cold for the tomato to be in...”
I used solar heat to warm up the soil in the beginning of the season.

”If you really want to maximize the roots, try 'regular' deep planting and if that wasn't enough try to make a horizontal trench and plant the tomato somewhat horizontal in stead of 90° vertical, as much stem as you put in the ground that will be full of roots.”
I wish I could do that. I just don’t have the space. I am growing indeterminates only about 14” apart!! Extreme high-density growing!

”But if this works better for you than that's your way to go.”
Here are today’s pictures. I am very pleased so far. It’s not that easy to have this kind of progress for what we call in the USA “ Z6 weather”.

Looks like I am going to have ripe tomatoes way before July 4th (Our Independent’s Day)! A goal everyone tries to achieve in our area.

dcarch

[Worth1]

Good job you ole hole digger you.
Please let us know how far the roots go down when you pull the plants up.
Worth

[blinky seedhead]

Hi, sorry for jumping topic--soil digging that is, but i'm new around this place and haven't quite got the posting thing down yet.
I do want to ask if anyone can advise me--the center branch of one of my tomato plants broke, due to gusty winds and rain, will my plant survive?
thanks,
blinky

[dcarch]

Originally Posted by blinky seedhead

Hi, sorry for jumping topic--soil digging that is, but i'm new around this place and haven't quite got the posting thing down yet.
I do want to ask if anyone can advise me--the center branch of one of my tomato plants broke, due to gusty winds and rain, will my plant survive?
thanks,
blinky

Welcome to Tomatoville. Another NYer.

If you act quickly things may be OK:

1. Take off some of the large leaves to decrease evaporation.
2. Tape, or fashion some kind of splint to put the broken branch back in position.
3. Shade the plant from dirct sun for a few days.

With a little luck, the broken branch may graft itself back.

Check this out:

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...ighlight=graft

dcarch

[dice]

Rerooting it as a cutting may be easier
than grafting it, depending on how long
it is. If it is a foot or less, you can trim
back any side branches and lower leaves,
leaving only a couple of leaf clusters and
the growing tip at the top, and put it in
water. Put it close under a flourescent light,
or in a sunny window, and it will reroot in 2-3
weeks. Then you can repot it. The original plant
will divert the energy that used to go into the
main stem into side branches.

Some people root cuttings directly in moist sand
or seed starting mix instead of water. That takes
more attention than I am willing to give them,
and water does work.

If you wish to try grafting, that will probably
produce faster results if it works.

If the piece that broke off has some side branches,
you could cut one of those off and drop it in water
as insurance in case the graft doesn't take.

[organichris]

dcarch,

Man those plants are looking superb! And I thought I was doing well. I think the auger idea is excellent, and definitely worth trying. At least you will add to your knowledge, whether the results end up being better or the same. I don't see any drawbacks in going deep.

When I saw those pics, I was thinking, "Surely those are from last year around July." But then I read further and proved myself wrong. Which varieties are those?

[dcarch]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Good job you ole hole digger you.
Please let us know how far the roots go down when you pull the plants up.
Worth

I am curious too. Definitely will check.

dcarch

[geeboss]

Plant your tomatoes deep

[SouthCoast]

I've seen mycorrhzae grow in popularity among giant vegetable growers. Check out the video about how giant pumpkin growers use mycorrhizae in their soil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcagSv-V1zg